The error 11 indicates that the burner did not ignite the incoming gas properly. Make sure that the gas valve is open (at the water heater and the meter/tank, depending on the type of gas). If you have propane, check that the tank isn't empty. Make sure that the water heater is properly grounded.
The other causes for the error may require a professional to check them out. Check that the water heater is compatible with your incoming gas. (Propane burners do not work with natural gas and the reverse is true, as well.) Check that the gas pressure available is high enough for the unit. (Tankless water heaters often need larger diameter pipes to bring in the gas than their tanked predecessors.) Check that there is no air in your gas lines. Make sure that the condensation collar was correctly installed on the water heater and that the vent pipe isn't too long. There are some DIP switches that need to be set depending on the installation; make sure that all of these are in the correct positions. Next the burner, the igniter and the solenoid gas valve need to be checked. The wiring for the igniter and the valve need to be checked. The burner cover has to be removed to check if the burners are properly seated. The burner plate has to be removed so that the burner surface can be checked for debris or condensation. The igniter has to be checked to see if it is operational. Finally, the solenoid valve needs to be checked for a short or an open circuit.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
(I've also had to check the end of the vent pipes for blockages - animal nests in the summer or ice in the winter.)
Unless there is a proprietary hook-up ( i coundnt find one) the best thing would be to plumb it in with pvc. They do have Flex PVC pipe but I've never used or heard anything about it so use at your own risk.
when you say it's converted to 220 volts , did you just change the voltage on the pump motor or did you also change the voltage on the blower motor as well ?? reason i ask is you might be feeding a 110 motor with 220 power it's turning twice as fast so it makes too much air , might be your cause ?
take the capacitor to a electric motor repair shop along with the details of the electric motor ( hp ,watts. phase current ,amps etc ) and they will be able to match it
yes, it can as can the hi-limit as well.
Is the watchdog, consistent or does it show up every now and then?
If not consistent: then it is an indication that there is a "Potential" problem, not necessarily always indicating a problem is there. Power fluctuation will cause this as well.
You may need to monitor for a while.
Is the motor a Dual voltage capable motor?
If so, the diagram for voltage change should be on the label.
It is also on the inside of the back cover were the wiring comes into the motor.
Most likely it is an AO Smith Motor that Jacuzzi used for their pump. The newer motors today are really easy to switch between voltages. There are 3 male spades on the back of the motor and a wiring plug with 2 female connections. You should easily see a diagram/bold arrow, for which 2 connections/spades are for 240 and which 2 for 120. Just lift and move the plug to one side or the other. 1 spade will not be used.
Take a look at the picture:
Two things: If you recently replaced an old toilet and had to shut off the water supply at the base of the toilet, it is possible that the valve is bad. If it's not a 1/4 turn valve, ex. it's the one you turn more than two or three turns to close, it's possible it worked when you closed it and broke when you reopened it, leaving it only partially open. These are notorious for breaking. Otherwise, I would be incline to replace the supply hose (if you haven't already) and, if it still was not working, replace the fill valve.
The pushbutton is electrically isolated from the actual on/off switch for obvious safety reasons. The mechanical coupling mechanism could be broken as could be the switch itself. It is not intended to be repaired by the homeowner but you could try if you are handy. Before investigating, turn offo the circuit breaker to the pump. Likely that is how you had to turn it off anyway.
If this is beyond you, call a plumber. Unfortunately, there are very few options.
Air Switch Repair
It sounds like you have a bad air switch located in your motor.
The air switch is what the air hose connects to on the back of the motor or on the box on top of the motor.
The other end of the air hose is connected to the air button on the lip of the tub.
This is a latching air switch and when you push the air button it latches and sends the power to the motor.
When the air button is pushed again it opens the latch in the air switch and stops power going to the motor shutting it off.
You have voltage across the element but no heat....
Disconnect one element connection and do a resistance/continuity test. Or use a clamp to measure running current.
Those 3 bars usually indicate the circuit board is not working properly and will need to be replaced.
When you say has 3 bars this is what that shows. - - -