Jacuzzi Pool & Spa - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

If you have any clamp on amperage meters, you need to see what the amperage draw on the circuit is when it is running. This will tell you if something is wrong with the pump circuit. It could be anything from a bad capacitor to an impeller obstruction.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XE6r7V80Rzg

rollout switch on lower inside cover by burn rack and gas valve possible down draft pushed flames into cabinet and tripped it if keeps happening might need chimney if ok check gas pressure if low unit overheated or burner tube clogged

Impeller may be broken or clogged. Turn the pump off and remove the basket. Reach back into the pump with your fingers and see if you feel debris. If you can't reach or if there is debris you will need to open the back of the pump, take off the diffuser, and clean out the impeller.

Without knowing the code it could mean anything. Consult your owners manual or online manual for error codes and remedies.

You have a: Single Stage Jet Pump, c/w Cast Iron Construction, Thermoplastic Impeller, .... coupled to a : 1/2 HP, 115/230 Volt Motor with a 1" x 1-1/4" Discharge x Suction. If you can't find a Jacuzzi, you can always replace it with one of like specs. Check a local plumbing supply dealer or online ... https://www.grainger.com/category/well-pumps/pumps/ecatalog/N-hve This may also help:

probably the element shorted out and caused the problem get in an electrician to check the wiring and circuits

probably a "O" ring as the seal if the pump is doing what it is supposed to be doing and everything is normal. I would not stress about air under the cover as water contains air in suspension ( how fish get their oxygen to live) and from the turbulent action of the pump impeller , some of that air will be released and collected at the highest point of the flow line

shut power down and replace outlet, GFIC only last so long, and if they have been tripped a lot they wear out, again shut off the power to the outlet before doing any work.

If it can use 220Volt then do that.

if you had any kind of power failure it will go to default ---recheck heater settings and filter settings

This is not that easy to take care of. 1. The building code version and requirements can be different depending on your location. 2. No manufacturer posts that information for that reason. 3. It will require an engineering study and that is required by most building codes. 4. Supporting structure may be only part of the issue, gates, alarms etc are required by some jurisdictions. Remember that water weighs 8 lbs to the gallon and a hottub can hold a lot of water.

Sounds like a child safety feature.

leak somewhere,take it apart and lube gaskets with vaseline

Unless there is a proprietary hook-up ( i coundnt find one) the best thing would be to plumb it in with pvc. They do have Flex PVC pipe but I've never used or heard anything about it so use at your own risk.

if no leaks it's evaporating. Cover spa

The pushbutton is electrically isolated from the actual on/off switch for obvious safety reasons. The mechanical coupling mechanism could be broken as could be the switch itself. It is not intended to be repaired by the homeowner but you could try if you are handy. Before investigating, turn offo the circuit breaker to the pump. Likely that is how you had to turn it off anyway. If this is beyond you, call a plumber. Unfortunately, there are very few options.

sounds like the recirculation pump isnt working FL1 means no Flow pump 1

Only those who provided you this equipment can explain you how to use it. Call them

Most pool pump motors use 6203 2RS. There are two in each motor. If you haven't done this before I wouldn't attempt it. Once the motors get to a certain age you cannot get the 4 thru bolts out to disassemble the motor. Plus you need a bearing puller. I suggest buying a replacement motor for under $200.00