Isuzu Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

no year car, no hope. surely you know that or tell you VIN and we tell your the dealer of the car will not talk to you lacking a VIN see why? (parts and manuals and all facts key off that VIN)

Change throttle body. Fixed mine.You should be able to get one for around $40The little clamps on the hoses you will encounter must be bent and replaced with clamps that tighten with a flathead screwdriver.Engine sounds beautiful again!!!

what trans mission is there? 5th generation ELF. the OD lamp flash on most cars means TCM is NOT HAPPY!! TRM has stored and found errors called DTC and we scan the TCM to learn that.! only the service manual solves this, read it.? buy it ? see if the tcm has flash codes. (jumper ) no country told by you all and scan tools and ports are NOT THE SAME WORLD WIDE AT ALL. period. or cars 2002 are all OBD2 scan ports, 16 pins, and all our tools work. on some cars the TCM is a separate module and on some its own scan port, buy the service manual and its all there to learn. all that. by country, engine and trans options world wide, and not here. USA.

don't mess with the drainage. it's highly toxic

I have a 1997 Rodeo so I'm not sure it is the same, but if your waterpump is located under the timing belt cover like mine is and is driven by the timing belt ...

1) Remove the upper fan shroud
2) Remove the (4) nuts then the cooling fan assembly
3) Remove the power steering drive belt
4) Remove the air conditioning compressor drive belt
5) Remove the generator drive belt
6) Remove the fan pulley assembly
7) Remove the crankshaft pulley
8) Remove the oil cooler hose
9) Remove the timing belt cover
10) Remove the timing belt pusher
11) Mark where the timing belt is currently seated in the cam and crankshaft gears (be real sure you know what you are doing here!!!)
12) Remove the timing belt
13) Drain the radiator
14) Remove the waterpump

Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=isuzu+kb+350+v6+cam+timing ..

https://www.planetisuzoo.com/threads/p1311-and-p1312.102538/#post-5233898 More here, also make sure there are no air leaks. https://www.google.com/search?q=Isuzu+P1311+and+P1312+codes ..

More information please. This 'Whirring' noise could be the reason for the issue. Is this noise a higher pitch, fast electrical whine or a slower 'clonking' sound? When do you get the noise? Is it all the time or only some of the time? Does it happen when you press the 4WD buttons with ignition On and the engine Off? Does it happen when the vehicle is stopped and at idle or only when it is moving? A faster, higher pitched noise suggests the electrical motor that shifts between 2WD and 4WD is struggling. A slower 'Clunking' suggests a mechanical issue. Are there any warning lights on the dash?

Question edited for clarity.Question moved to model category.Under the coil packs 1992 - 1995.https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+isuzu+rodeo+3.2+ignition+control+module+location..

Question edited for clarity. Wrong type of break / brake. Question moved to model category. Check the brake switch with a meter first. Then check headlight relays and fuses. https://www.planetisuzoo.com/threads/no-brake-lights-with-headlights-on-1991-trooper.151493/ https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Isuzu+Trooper+brake+lights+not+working ..

Removal 1. Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead. 2. Turn the ignition switch to "LOCK". 3. Disconnect the battery "- " terminal cable, and wait at least 5 minutes. 4. Disconnect the yellow 2-way SRS connector located under the steering column. Caution: The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the steering column in the "LOCK" position before disconnecting the steering wheel. Failure to do so will cause the coil assembly to become uncentered which will cause damage to the coil assembly. 5. Remove the engine hood opening lever and steering lower cover. 6. Remove driver knee bolster (reinforcement). 7. Loosen the inflator module fixing bolt from behind the steering wheel assembly using a TORX 0 driver or equivalent until the inflator module can be released from steering assembly. 8. Disconnect the yellow 2-way SRS connector and horn lead located behind the inflator module. 9. Apply a setting mark (1) across the steering wheel and shaft so parts can be reassembled in their original position. 10. Move the front wheels to the straight ahead position, then use steering wheel remover J-29752 to remove the steering wheel. Caution: Never apply force to the steering wheel in direction of the shaft by using a hammer or other impact tools in an attempt to remove the steering wheel. The steering shaft is designed as an energy absorbing unit. 11. Remove steering column cover. 12. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors located under the steering column. 13. Remove the combination switch assembly with SRS coil. 14. Remove snap ring. 15. Remove cushion rubber. 16. Remove shift lock cable (for A/T). 17. Disconnect the starter switch harness connector located under the steering column then remove lock cylinder assembly.

I had that problem too and the issue was a loose wire connecting the engine control modude to the crankshaft sensor switch. The engine control module does not sense where the crankshaft position is when the wire moves, and that causes things to go snaky, such as the transmission and cruise lights coming on. This issue took a good mechanic in Syracuse one and a half weeks to find. Total cost was $425.00,$395.00 for labour, and $.99 for the new wire. Good luck!

usa CAR? ,NO VIN, NOR IF IMMO FITTED i WILL rtm to you, service manual on said LOCK 16 STEPS THERE ARE.: Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and wait at least 5 minutes. Disconnect the yellow 2-way SRS connector located under the steering column. WARNING The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the steering column in the "LOCK" position before disconnecting the steering wheel. Failure to do so will cause the coil assembly to become uncentered which will cause damage to the coil assembly. Remove the engine hood opening lever and steering lower cover. Remove driver knee bolster (reinforcement). Loosen the inflator module fixing bolt from behind the steering wheel assembly using a Torx® driver or equivalent until the inflator module can be released from steering assembly. 1. Inflator module 2. Steering wheel 3. Steering column cover 4. Combination switch and SRS coil assembly 5. Snap ring 6. Cushion rubber 7. Lock cylinder assembly 8. Instrument panel lower cover 9. Driver knee bolster (reinforcement) 10. Shift lock cable (for A/T) 42050 images-42050_rode_g0027 Disconnect the yellow 2-way SRS connector and horn lead located behind the inflator module Apply a setting mark (1) across the steering wheel and shaft so parts can be reassembled in their original position, then remove steering wheel Move the front wheels to the straight ahead position, then use steering wheel remover J-29752 to remove the steering wheel WARNING Never apply force to the steering wheel in direction of the shaft by using a hammer or other impact tools in an attempt to remove the steering wheel. The steering shaft is designed as an energy absorbing unit. Remove steering column cover. 12. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors located under the steering column. Remove the combination switch assembly with SRS coil. NOTE The SRS coil is a part of the combination switch assembly, which can not be replaced separately. Therefore, be sure not to remove the SRS coil from the combination switch assembly. Remove snap ring. <<<<<<I GUESS YOU ARE HERE? Remove the rubber cushion. Remove shift lock cable (for A/T). Disconnect the starter switch harness connector located under the 16:steering column then remove lock cylinder assembly.

if this is a 1988 vehicle then scrap the car as no parts after 10 to 12 yrs of age available from dealers

do not guess timing on any engines, or risk valve damage. the service manual covers all this. no year car told or country , (an Iisuzu FASTER class truck) KB350 , is in Africa or Down Under? guess it is 3.5L V6 (gm?) Just so you know, the books are by country , maker ,model , year and chapters on the engine option there. we have no KB in the USA ,not one. it broke the the cam belt or stripped it out my guess. seems too you bent over valves. which engine is there or "wiki isuzu engines" and find it and tell it first. or buy the shop manual from Isuzu. The 2006 up is GM and is Interference engine and now damaged, is this post a bingo,, ?????? there are 2 types 3.5L, may be wrong there is no African wiki for KB350 or for any Australian bakkie ether, so facts super hard to find, not living there. just this but I think is 1999 ISUZU TROOPER https://www.fixya.com/cars/t15182528-isuzu_kb_350_v6_cam_timing_settings I bet a by hand , keys in pocket only fails a leak down test. cylinder leak down tool (common and nails here) cranked by hand only, gently. (no need to bend valves more) i think your 3.5L is SOHC or DOHC cam with belt drive cams. KB was sold in AUSTRIALIA BUT NO 3.5l SO AFRICA KB , 2013? OUR OLD TROOPER HAD 3.5 SOHC. 6VD1 SOLD SOHC AND DOHC VERSIONS BOTH. OR 6VE1-W 3.5L DOHC 24V V6 was introduced in 1998 AND SOME TO AFRICA ARE GM ENGINES. SORRY CAN'T GUESS YOURS THE WIKI IS (VACUUM HERE)

If this is a diesel engine, I would suggest changing the glow plugs first

Fuel pressure regulator is going bad, basically you are getting to much fuel into your cylinders and are causing hydro lock

The Crankshaft Position sensor is normally located in the timing cover or on the side of the block with a cylindrical portion that inserts into the block

try dealer

I can't get the cam timing whrite