Husqvarna Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

MOVED YOU OUT OF CARS TO LAWN MOWER. that is lost engine power causes are bad fuel or old and bad. fuel all filters clogged,air or fuel or carb clugged up,. (gunked up from bad fuel super common) cold starts use a choke and goes super rich hiding clogged jets in carb. clean carb or replace it if all above filters and fuel good.

check linkage and bushings

How old is this mower? Misfire meaning backfire? Recommend a compression test. Small engines, particularly the the b&S and TEC tend to cold,allowing carbon buildup on the valves and valve stems. This causes the valves to stick open. The intake primsrily. So, several attempts to start is called for along with backfiring and frustration Remedy to this ail? keep everything in good order, carb adjustment, clean oil, clean air filterand most important, clean fresh fuel. Carbon will build up so there is no absolute fix. . It seems to be the nature of the beast.Working the enginepromotes shedding of yhe carbon on the valve seatsAt one time the practice of misting water into the intake broke the carbon loose. Interesting, I guess it workedRememr, I'm guessing it worked. _good Luck _Ned_

There are two pieces that makeup the cap. Be sure you have the tank breather valve PN 531 00 33-47

It appears there's a part change so the new part may not match the picture in the parts list.

sounds like either a rod bearing or a wrist pin loose on the crankshaft or on the connecting rod

I had the same issue, exactly. I changed the cutter blades and it got much better. It is not totally fixed. It gets clogged most when the embroidery has to move around with the same color...which would suggest that it is still not totallly working. I think it might have to do with the cutter arm not retracting enough or not being positioned correctly. I'm still working this, but I hope that it helps you. If you found an answer, please share! Thanks!

Your seeing the problem. Air in the fuel lines usually caused by a cracked fuel line or a pin hole in the primer bulb. Until you can stop the air bubbles by either replacing the actual primer bulb or fuel lines your always going to have the hard to start problem. This can also cause the engine to run lean at high RPM settings and eventually burn a hole in the piston. You should repair the fuel problem ASAP. If you do not find any fuel line / primer bulb problems then it is time to start looking at the carb diaphram.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

Press on the center of the stich length dial.https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1632982/Husqvarna-Viking-3600.html?page=18#manualIf it continues to forward stitch while button pressed, see following repair video.https://youtu.be/n_ue2C3iRFk

Question edited for clarity and spelling of the maker. Question moved to maker category. check out the video https://www.google.com/search?q=husqvarna+riding+mower+reattach+mower+deck+lift+torsion+spring ..

https://gardentroop.com/problems-with-husqvarna-zero-turn-mowers/ This may help.

On most of the late model lawn tractors there is a 20 amp fuse underneath the dash, it should be a blade type fuse like you would find in cars. Replace that and you should be good to go...

Can you show a picture of the back of the switch (connector side) and I may be able to help.

Did you disengage the brake. I sometimes forget to disengage the brake but when the engine starts to shut off i realize that I did not disengage the brake.

Hi, Please double check that your air filter is not clogged and also check that your fuel is mixed properly. If those approaches fail, please call Husqvarna to provide a different approach at 1 (800) 487-5951. Thank you.

May have the brake switch wired backwards. It appears to have 4 pins. I did some troubleshooting on a Cub Cadet recently and the brake switch had two contacts for a NO switch and two for a NC contact. The switch seems to have a tab to prevent installing it other than the "correct" way. I would take a look at the brake switch and wiring. Maybe somebody accidentally swapped the wiring pins in the harness for that switch. It's just going to need some investigation to see where to go next.

I had my cruise control removed to solve the problem. The park brake would not disengage due to malfunction with the cruise control. When you engage the park brake, the cruise control locks to prevent it from being engage. If it is stuck, the park brake will not release. How do I know this? Had to put mine in the repair shop. The shop called Husqvarna and the shop was told the cruise control was a poor design and the best thing to do is simply remove it to prevent the same issue in the future.

Hi Joe videos that may help. https://www.google.com/search?q=Husqvarna+51+chainsaw+not+oiling ..

The only basic difference between 2 stroke and 4 stroke fuel is that you add a measured amount of 2 Stroke oil the the fuel. What issues you get will depend on how much 2 stroke fuel you actually ran through the engine. A small amount like 2 or 3 minutes of running time won't do the engine any great harm. You said you replaced the fuel for fresh 4 stroke. Assuming you only ran the engine for a couple of minutes you can safely run the engine AT IDLE to burn off the 2 stroke fuel. It will blow grey/black exhaust for a while but this should thin out and disappear as the 4 stroke fuel gets into the system. Once the exhaust gas clears turn the mower off and give it a full service, Fuel filter, oil filter, air filter and spark plug then you should be good to go.

turn it on, add fuel, prime carb, set choke and start... usually like that it works unless you primed it and flooded the engine

open gas cap and see if it will run again. m,any times the gas tank vents clog and the engine can't draw gas after a few minutes. another thought is the oil mixture.. 50:1 with oil made for air cooled engines....not boat engine oil