Hotpoint Washing Machines - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Without testing I would suggest that the heating element has shorted to earth enough to take out the RCD. You should test with a multimeter between the element and the outer sheath which should show 0 if Faulty and replace the element, otherwise it is something else in the circuit i.e. temperature cutout causing the earth leakage.

This is a sign that the transmission is failing, If you post the model number we may be able to help you further.

Check drain pump for obstructions

A very simple solution to r epairing all by yourself is getting help from handbo oks, they're very detailed and complete in every way so for me it was my best source to repair one of the top sites for this is https://big-manuals.com/

Check heating element.

Most likely a control board issue

Either lay the machine on its back , you can see the motor underneath, the brushes are on the back end of the motor , or with the machine upright, remove the back plate , the motor is bolted onto the machine at the bottom

Make sure water is cut on at faucets. Make sure screens in hoses and valve aren’t clogged with debris. Make sure hot and cold water hoses aren’t reversed.

read the operator's manual... it will tell you what to do.

Parts may be hard to find ion a 30 year old washer. Probably time for new.

Control Board issue if drain pump won’t cut off.

Try searspartsdirect.com

From the diagrams on line, I think you have to remove the bottom panel to get at the screws in the bottom. The top appears to be able to be pried up on the front side. That's as far as I can help you.

This sounds like the thermostats

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Common faults -
1 The heating elements can fail(meaning open circuit)
2 There are cut-outs (T.O.C's) thatmight need resetting
3 The thermostats (stats) can tripout or burn out (meaning opencircuit)
4 Moderntumble dryers also have sensors and pcb's (Printed circuitboards) thesehaveprograms that can fail and circuitry although most should produce an errorcodeshowing you were the fault is.
5 Faultyconnections and burned wires may also bethe fault.


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Look at and examine the door seal closely for any sign of a hole or tear in it.
If none is visible then it could be the clamp or spring that holds the seal to the drum front that is causing the prob..
Other than that , there could be a crack or hole in the container front.

If it trips the RCD then you have an electrical fault. Washing machine can do this once they are a bit old, or if they have had a water leak. The water gets into the electrical equipment and causes a fault that trips the RCD. If you have a circuit without an RCD try that. If it still trips, then the fault is serious and you will need to get it repaired. You can also try putting the washing machine into a warm place for a few days to see if it will dry everything out. Sometimes this will cure a fault if it is due to dampness.

If your description is accurate and the drum is loose enough to put the drive pulley or wheel so far out of alignment the belt has come off it is almost certainly the main bearing that is at fault. The machine must have been making a lot of noise for a considerable time to have reached the current state and it would be wise to expect more damage and expense than is usual.

The drain hose must be between 24 and 38 inches from the floor.

Possible part failure: https://www.justanswer.com/uk-appliance/6tt6z-hi-my-wmd960-keeps-showing-f02-error.html HiMy wmd960 keeps showing an F02 error

There is an electrically controlled lock on the door that prevents opening while the machine is in operation, and sometimes for a short period after a cycle has finished.

Sometimes this lock can get stuck and requires some persuasion to release.

This may sound odd but try it:

Make a fist with your hand and bang the door, near the latch, with the side of your fist. Do this firmly, but obviously not so hard that you will damage the door or, more importantly, your hand. This can often release the latch that should have released automatically.