Check the Salt Level: Ensure that the salt reservoir is filled with dishwasher salt. The dishwasher needs salt to soften the water and improve the cleaning performance. If the salt level is low or empty, refill the reservoir with dishwasher salt.
Check the Salt Dispenser Cap: Make sure that the salt dispenser cap is securely closed. If it's not closed properly, it can cause the "X" symbol to appear on the display.
Reset the Dishwasher: Try resetting the dishwasher by turning it off at the mains power supply for a few minutes, then turning it back on. This can sometimes clear error codes and restore normal operation.
Check for Blockages: Ensure that the salt dispenser and its inlet are free from any blockages or obstructions that could prevent salt from dissolving properly.
Consult the Manual: If the issue persists, refer to the dishwasher's user manual for troubleshooting steps specific to your model. The manual may provide additional information about error codes and how to resolve them.
If none of these steps resolve the issue and the "X" symbol continues to appear on the display, it may indicate a more significant problem with the dishwasher that requires professional diagnosis and repair. In such cases, contacting Hotpoint customer service or a qualified appliance technician for assistance is recommended.
Question edited for clarity and toss in a load of CAPS!
It is a gas appliance and must only be worked on by a gas certified technician. It is likely to be the igniter to the oven, or more likely the Thermocouple safety device.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+Ultima+HUG61K+oven+not+lighting
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I have one of these, mine is named Cannon.
There are two fans. One that comes on when the main oven is used and heating, the other is for air cirsulation for the top or small oven and has nothing to do with the heating or cooling of the top oven.
If it doesn't reach temperature, I would be looking at the thermocouple/thermostat as a first suspect.
The first thing to always try is disconnecting it from the mains plug overnight. Then in the morning press and hold the power button for 60 seconds. Then plug it back in. The is a Power Reset on a machine that has an electronic mainboard.
Does water enter the machine? My guess is that the water inlet valve may have failed. It waits, no water comes, so it times out. There are a few things to check there, make sure there is water in the pipe, make sure the strainer screens are clear in the hose connecter on the back of the machine.
No model details given but there is help in the link.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+washing+machine+going+into+pause+mode
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads. if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps. If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker. Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etcBeware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Does the problem move with the drawer when you shuffled them or did it do the same thing in the same position? If it moved it's the drawer causing the issue, if it stayed in the same place it's the freezer itself.
Empty the offending drawer and have a good look at it. A lot of front panels on freezer drawers are a 'push on' fit so check the front is clipped on correctly on both sides. Next check the runner rails and back panel of the area that drawer goes into. It might be something as simple as a lump of ice or something stuck to the side/back or a something in the drawer above or below blocking it.
