Hotpoint Microwave Ovens - Page 7 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

The fan is needed to cool the magnetron. Without the fan it would overheat in seconds and destroy itself.

In the cabinet above the unit you will find 3 screws, 2 on the right side one on the left. As soon as these are removed the micro will free to fall, you need to lift the back of the micro up about 1/2" to lift it off the mounting plate on the wall.

its pci mec is detecting a FAULT the unit needs to be fixed by a service tech

hope this helps please rank this advice

Sounds like you need a new control panel
Available from Sears:
WHITE P# WB7X2092 $46.99

Item 43 on this diagram"
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Hotpoint-Parts/Microwave-Parts/Model-RVM1325WW03/1811/0123370/E2134923/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

your fuse in micro wave is going bad.

YOU WANT TO CHECK POWER FIRT AT THE OUTLET MAKE SURE YOU STILL HAVE 120 VOLTS THERE.. IF SO AND PLUG IS GOOD ON 98% OF THE MICROWAVES OUT THERE IS A 20 AMP fuse located in control panel of unit... check there with the power disconnected and may have a blown fuse...if that is good you most likely have a blown control on unit ...
hopw this helps good luck...

Yes it is repairable! there are three parts that will cause this, the magnetron "common problem" or the the high voltage capacitor or diode. Depending on the part failure will determine the cost, if the magnetron has gone that will approach the price of a new microwave oven.

What is the full model number?

Unplug micro, clean inside with warm water, the seal around door also. Then DRY THOROGHLY, plug in and try your coffee.

Hi mstweet22.

Could you supply a make, model, and serial number taken right off of the unit (not the book). A kickplate is the bottom grill on a refrigerator, but you state it's a microwave. Do you mean the vent grill across the top of a microwave?
If you would supply that info, I can get a picture up and help you.

Let me know.

fil

The metal mesh is a filter screen to keep the microwaves in the oven while letting you see the food. The plastic sheet that's peeling off is meant to keep that screen clean. It's not supposed to be removed, since then food can get into the holes in the screen. A buildup of foods can lead to overheating and burn the paint and possibly damage the door. It should be replaced.

The part number is WB36X10068. A Google search turned up several sources. Here's one, but there are others. The new sheet has the adhesive applied, you just peel off the protective film and stick it in place. Clean the door inner surface first so the new sheet will stick firmly.

Good luck with the repair, and thanks for using Fixya!

The problem may be a defective door switch, or the door is out of alignment, or you have a short in the keypad control. This should be looked at right away because it is exposing you to radiation hazard. I highly recommend appliance technician check the unit asap.

Hello,

the fault is from the heating element of your oven. I don't want to believe that the heating element is defective.

It is possible that the wire connected to the heating element has loosed contact. This can be caused by the heat of the oven. The heat can melt the wire or maybe the wire got disconnected for one reason or the other.

Find a way to disassemble the oven. I don't mean the whole oven, but the heating element part. Check if the wires are connected properly.

This I believe is the step to take to fix the heating problem. But if all the wires are intact, then it means the heating element is defective, that's why the oven is not heating. You can get the heating element replaced in this case.

Good luck.

A microwave not heating up is caused by one or more of the following -

1) Failed controller board (unlikely if you are getting a clock readout and you can get the various functions to work, just no heat)
2) Failed door switch
3) Failed thermal fuse, when used
4) Blown power fuse that is dedicated to the microwave circuit
5) Bad diode
6) Bad capacitor
7) Bad magnetron
8) Bad transformer

Door switches insure the microwave circuit will not engage when the door is open. Slamming the door of the microwave is hard on the switch.

The thermal due is wired into the microwave harness, and is a melting allow type, based on heat buildup within the oven. Always replace with a fuse of the same thermal rating.
Hello,

The power fuse is a special type and should only be replaced with that same type and rating. It is easily tested.

The diode is a relatively inexpensive part, and is not easily tested. If a grumble is heard coming from electrical area of the unit, then the diode could be shorted.

A shorted capacitor will blow the fuse immediately. And open capacitor will cause a "no heat" condition.

A bad magnetron will also cause a low level hum or grumble from the transformer. But is may also cause no other identifiable symptom of failure.

A bad transformer will exhibit a grumble or hum, and may or may not blow the fuse. But be careful here, the secondary of the transformer produces very high voltages, up to 2.5Kv. Few people own a meter capable of measuring such voltages.

Service and repair of microwave ovens is dangerous work. If you don't know what your doing, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SERVICE A UNIT WITHOUT INSTRUCTION.

I hope this helps.

Good luck.

There is a numner of reasons why the oven no longer heats. The most likely one is the magnetron.

It sounds like the magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT

This is a job for a professional but if you are safety clued up, here's instruction.
Make sure the !!!!any capacitors are discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 or moving coil meter on high resistance range for short circuit, (DVM's won't show the fault!), the capacitor can fail and go short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.

Depends on what you are screwing it to ,use metal screws as in sheet metal and get as beefy as you can that fit through hole . I would predrill any holesslightly smaller than the screw to make it easy n ya .Just know where the tip of the scew is going ,not through an electric line or clear through the other side

On many newer microwaves, the fuse can blow and the display will still work. I just
repaired an Emerson which exhibited the same symptom. The fuse is inside the
microwave and looks like an old style automotive fuse. Easy to get at any appliance
parts store for a couple of dollars. You have to remove the outer cover to access
the fuse. Make sure it is unplugged and be aware the capacitors can still be charged
and have quite a kick. The fuse will have the rating stamped on the ends and must
be of the exact same amperage (A) and equal or higher voltage (V). Hope this helps.

is there a loose connection from the motor plug to the control board up on top of the unit
when you start a cycle does it make any clicking noises? if so then it it probably a loose connector

Hello elle..... Definitely call the power company right away. You have probably lost one leg of your power so that instead of having two 110 volt legs going into your electrical panel you have only one leg. That would eliminate half of your power.

This is a potentially dangerous situation so please call the power company right away. ALSO do not use your electric dryer or electric stove/oven under any circumstances at these require 220 volts and using them could damage your appliances. Joe

Thanks for choosing Fixya!

The door is probably out of adjustment. Remove it from the power source.
Remove the top cover and examine the door catch housing. There usually are a couple of screws clamping this in place, loosen the screws, shut the door and tighten the screws.
Finaly, check the hinge for clearance, (No more than 1/10th inch), and adjust as needed.
Hope that helps.