Hotpoint Microwave Ovens - Page 2 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Hi Kerry, "PF" is power falure if you didn't aready know this. It sounds to me like the coolig fan might be running slow or there is blocked or restricted air flow through the unit. This cooling fan is only for the HV transformer and magnetron. Sometimes you may get air flow around the door but this is incidental. The PF tells me that the power is being interrupted either at the power source (wall outlet or circuit breaker) or the magnetron TCO is cutting out. It also could be a bad magnetron running too hot. As far as the steam goes, I usually just leave the door open on my microwave for 10 or 15 minutes to let the condensation evaporate.

Leonid, Here is one place you can try. http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a6b95c70d1007401/Model-RVM1325BW02-Hotpoint-Microwave-Handle-Parts

Check this out: This to That Glue Advice

Too many watts on same circuit. Plug it into a different outlet and see what happens, not on same circuit. So one that stays live when micro trips circuit breaker.

Generally, if a microwave is no longer heating it's cheaper to replace it then to fix it.

Dear Jonathan, Here is a listing of the codes for Hotpoint Hotpoint Fault Codes AppliancePartsPros com . In your case it is a " Stuck touch Pad". Fare. Well.

Having An external battery probably dry cell .

change computer control board

Jim, Take the screws out that hold the cover on your unit and then take the cover off. Find where your cord goes into the machine and follow the black wire from the cord, it normally should go to a small circuit board and your fuse is usually mounted on that circuit board. It will be a 15 amp fuse and you usually can get one of those at most appliance parts stores. If there is not a circuit board the black wire may go directly to an in-line fuse holder. Hope this helps.

On most GE/Hotpoint models, the control panel assembly will either tip down, or pivot sideways for access to the components behind it. Screws holding the top air deflector might have to be removed in order to gain access to the control panel mounting screws. I recently junked-out a similar model. The main fuse was near where the power cord enters the cabinet on top. Avoid contact with any of the high voltage components. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

Cubic square feet is determined by multiplying length (depth) X width X height. Example= 2X2X2 = 8 cubic feet. A typical countertop microwave is going to be 1.1 to 1.6 cubic feet of oven capacity.

sounds like the control board, but most times the magnetron fails and if a fuse failed then it needs a capacitor too

If you repair a door assy. you are required per DHHS rules to perform a leak test on and around the door after such repair.

make this test and fix it. God bless you

1. Check the power diodeThis electronic component is responsible for transmitting current in one direction. If the diode becomes defective it will cause your microwave to not heat. Test the diode and replace it if necessary.
2. High voltage capacitorResponsible for storing electricity, this part is a key component in any microwave. Remove, discharge, and test the capacitor to determine if it requires replacement.
3. Damaged magnetronResponsible for generating waves and producing heat. When your microwave is no longer heating properly, replacement will be required.
4. Thermal CutoffsExamine the thermal cutoffs on both the magnetron and the oven itself. Take off one of the leads and using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check the terminals. If you get a result other than zero, replace the thermal cutoffs.

If you can open up, try to clean the ribbon connector. My oven was sending "1" all the time, filled the memory and caused permanent beeping! I wanted to cut off the "1" connection but after opening I found that the panel was diffuclt to disassemble. I just cleaned the ribbon connector and put it pack. It needed a few attempts to get it to work all the buttons properly. But then it has been working for more than year without problem!

you must read in the back label the specifications of how many Watts, maybe can be .1100watts -to 1800watts or use the formula P=e voltaje x i anp= watts,God bless you

Sounds like its time for a new microwaveYou can probably buy a new one cheaper then fixing the old oneMost controls that display 888 something is shorted out on the controller.Have you tried unplugging it for 5 minutes and plugging back in? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_54ae41aaaffbab00

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There can be short in the ribbon connector that connects the control panel to the rest due to some oily deposits. You can try to open it up, remove the ribbon, clean it and put back. It may take a few attempts to align correctly.I am assuming your model is similar to mine.