WB13K21 is the ignitor that goes in your stove,i looked up part number RGB 745 and it doesn't come up as a good part number,if the bake ignitor works you can try that up in the broil,they are the same,if it lites then you know the ignitor they put in is no good.here's the sears site so you can see the ignitor yourself.http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Hotpoint-Parts/Range-Parts/Model-RGB745DEP1CT/1811/0124002/G0907278/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=
may have also burned the wires going to it turn off power or unplug then open up the top and look around , if you feel cofortable with hot wires and have a tester you could removed the wires from that burner isolate them so that they don't short out on the stove then turn on the power to that burner checking the wires for voltage should have 120 + or - a few is ok , if no powe r work back from there till you do find power
Hi. This is quite common with gas ranges of this nature. I will list the most common culprits below:1. Gas valve coil assembly malfunction(Most likely culprit)2. Ignition Faults(damaged ignitor)3. Oven temperature sensor faults(unable to read oven temp)4. Main logic board or PCB damage(Control board issues)I would advise to unplug the unit for five minutes. This will induce a hard reset that will reset the main board. Once this is done, plug or reintroduce power to the unit and try to preform a normal baking session. observe the ovens actions. If the faults persist, Start your troubleshooting by checking the sensor(oven temp sensor) for faults. Make sure that the contacts are connected properly, and not loose, or corroded. If all the wiring checks out, test the sensor for the correct resistance readings.(you will need a multimeter for this test).The most common oven sensors should be approximately 1100 ohms at room temperature. Other temperatures are as follows:100F - 1143 ohms200F - 1350 ohms300F - 1553 ohms(You will essentially want to test it at room temp)The sensor is, generally, located inside the oven, mounted on the back wall, on the top right, or left corner. There will be two screws holding the housing on the back of the oven wall. Once the screws are removed, the sensor will need to be extracted from the back side of the unit.If the sensor checks out ok and the wiring is connected without any faults, move on to the other areas of concern. I will list the other procedures below.
Their are 3 popular bake elements for that brand a 3 look similar so it may require you removing the old one to see what exactly it is
the first one is a older style FOR SELF CLEANING OVENS it has a hinge so its easily lifted up and the wires screw onto it ITS part#WB44X5082
the seond one is very similar to the first one except its for oven that areNOT SELF CLEAN It is hinged and wires screw on its part # WB44X5099
the last one is newer style for both self and non self clean and is NOT hinged and the wires slip on and do NOT SCREW ON its part# WB44K10005
All of them depending which your is can be purchased at your local appliance parts store or online at, searspartsdirect.com repairclinic.com apdepot.com apwagner.com
Hello Jeff,What ya need to do is use a voltage meter and check at the 2 wires of the new igniter for 120 volts ac power. If ya have no voltage their at the igniter the problem is either the gas safety valve or the control that is the problem.The gas valve can be checked using that same meter set to check what is called continuity and check for continuity at the 2 terminals for the bake side as shown here..if ya have continuity here on the gas valve the control is the problemGENE
Are you sure you put the right model number in? The RB526 doesn't have a glass top! Suggest you find the equipment id tag on your stove and then go to searspartsdirect.com and plug in the model number and search for the part you want. NOTE: Sears is not usually the lowest priced place to buy from, BUT they use the real part number that you can do a search on to find a lower price. But since it is a glass cook top, sears has the in store delivery and pick up so that you can inspect for cracks and chips before accepting it.
The broiler ignitor and the bake ignitor or intrchangeable. You could swap em out to see if the ignitor i weak OR just buy another igniotr. Observe the brightness of the broil ignitor to the bake one. The Bake one being dim is too weak to open the gas valve. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
I would scrape and clean has much as you can,from the oven,then turn your self cleaning oven on.Make sure your fan is on above the stove.the oven pretty much bakes the grime off at a high temp take your racks out before turning your oven on..much bakes the grime off
Sounds like the piezoelectric igniter is coming on when your knob is turned. Older knob may be lose and twisted make sure it does not spin on the knob shaft
Good afternoon. F2 for hotpoint means oven temp sensor thinks oven exceeded 650 degrees .Did that happen? Probably not so have your sensor checked or replaced. It should be a probe device in oven back wall.
To self clean that oven REMOVE THE RACKS, slide the door latch from the right to the left,push the self clean button,push the up/down arrows to set the clean time (usual clean time is 4 hours 30 minutes) push start
After the clean is over it may take a additional hour before the door will open if the latch doesn't move back easily to the the right once self clean clean is done do not force it just wait more time
This page has the service manuals for various models; there are about 40 different ones listed. Hope that helps!http://www.retrevo.com/samples/Hotpoint-manuals.html#Range
If I understood your question correctly you are trying to replace the Hotpoint Oven door and cannot understand how to do it. Since you cannot specify the model I am posting a video link which will show you how to remove and replace the hotpoint oven door for a model older like yours.
The problem with the oven is going to a weak igniter,it is strong enough currently to eventually allow the burner to come on but its not strong enough to keep the burner on. Sooner or later it will weaken even more so it will not let the gas flow at all,so by replacing it now with a fresh strong one it will let the oven come on faster and stay on througout the duration of the baking cycle
If your model number is the one listed in the question (RGB533CEHCC) the part number for the igniter is WB13K21 it could purchase it at your local appliance parts store or online at; searspartsdirect.com repairclinic.com apdepot.com partselect.com apwagner.com
This model should have pilotless electronic ignition.If you hear clicking when you light the burners , it is electronic,. Also , open broiler drawer and turn on oven .After a few seconds do you see a glow start?Thats your electronic oven igniter confirming you have no pilot.
When the
oven lighting mechanism lights the gas the flames heat a temperature sensor
that, once hot, increases the pressure in the sensor's copper pipe and opens a
safety valve to allow gas to continue to flow (It's made like this so, if your
flame gets blown out, the sensor cools and cuts off the gas supply, making it
safe from gas leaks). These sensors occasionally fail, and very sensibly
"Fail safe" - No pressure in the sensor pipe, the valve won't open
and there is no gas to the burner. If you take
a look inside the oven at the back where the burner is, you will see the
sensor, usually the bit that is in the flame is cylindrical, about an inch long
made of metal about 3 or 4 mm thick, tapering at the end. It will be held in
place by a nut that fits on a thread at the base of the sensor. Running from
the sensor is a copper pipe that runs to the cutoff valve. Unbolt the sensor
and withdraw it from the hole it is mounted in, trace the copper pipe back to
the valve (where it is usually screwed into the valve with a 10mm connector
that looks like a car brake pipe connector. Unbolt from the valve. These
sensors are widely used on most gas appliances (Boilers, gas fires, cooker hob
burners and patio heaters all use the same kind of sensor). You should be able to
get a replacement from any gas appliance service agent. If you go into a shop,
take it with you. The only thing you need to do is make sure the replacement
you get is long enough. If you are offered one that is slightly longer, that
The beeping indicates to me that the clock has power to it and it's the problem and needs to be replaced. ya need model number to order part it usually can be found on rim around door or inside of the bottom storage drawer, when ordering parts its call by 4 names, all are the same part its either clock, eoc,oven control,or relay board
Hello and Welcome to FixYa!
Please provide us with the model details of your unit and What exactly, you are facing. Is the burner properly getting the supply. And is it partially lighting or didn't lighting at all. Is the unit repaired ever since the problem started?
Some details of the trouble, you are facing, will help suggesting more precise solutions to the problem,
Feel free to Ask,
Concerned.
It's possible that while cleaning around the burners, the burners got debris that is clogging them. If you remove them, try blowing them out with a can of compressed air. You can also use a paperclip to clear the obstruction.
All of them depending which your is can be purchased at your local appliance parts store or online at,
as shown here..if ya have continuity here on the gas valve the control is the problemGENE
