Hotpoint CB 250 Nighthawk - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 5

You should do little more homework.. Yes you can remove the burner if it's the culprit and causes a short and tripping the breakers. If still trips after you remove it you should look into replacing the harness for that burner.

-The oven control valve is stuck. Replace new one. Good luck Mai

http://www.fixya.com/support/p39911-hotpoint_rgb745_gas_kitchen_range/manual-18109 Please read before operating.

Its connected to the knob that operates the burner

If it's an electric oven, then it may be a baking element gone bad. When mine went bad the rest of the oven worked but not the bottom oven baking section. Mine made popping noises and sparks when it went out. Look for a break or burnt spot in the heating coil in the bottom of your oven. I replaced mine for about $50

Get an oven thermometer and measure the temperature in the oven to determine if it is at the correct temp or not. If not then there is an oven problem possibly the oven temp probe or the oven electronic controller. If the temp is correct then you are doing something wrong as a cook such as oven temp set too high or cooking for too long.

F2 During BAKE, Control senses oven temperature above 615F-630F f actual over temperature condition occurred: Look for welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC). Here is the part to order.

Which switch do you have? Why do you need a diagram. Would you not just change over the wired the way you found them in the first place. Take a photo before you begin to work.

Sounds like the electronic display on top or on top behind the oven is burned out. This can be an expensive repair but check with a store which sells used ranges because perhaps they have the used part which could make the repair more reasonable. Otherwise it is time to look for a new or used range.

Replace the bake element and you should be good to go. Here is the part to order.

Most gas ranges that can be converted between LP and natural gas include an orifice kit usually located by the gas connection and regulator. Some ranges cannot be converted. I doubt you will be able to find any documentation that tells you the size of the required orifices. Remember that there is an orifice for each of the surface burners as well for the oven and broiler burner(s)

What switch?

check the knob form out to inside but usually just change new one coz usually the switch plastic housing are melting/burn that making the metal part in the switch contact..

is it gas or electric (oven) some unit are dual fuel meaning electric oven and gas top.

Natural gas, they tell us, is clean burning. Well, it makes good ad copy, but it's not 100 percent true. There are trace impurities in gas, and when they burn they become ash. And over a long long period of time this ash can build up and clog tiny gas orifices, like pilot orifices. The symptoms may be that the pilot will not stay lit, or blows out too easily. There is also a little "cup" around the pilot light in a surface burner to regulate air for proper combustion of the pilot flame. These can get covered with ash or clogged up with spillage from the burner (see below.) Make sure you clean the pilot area thoroughly. You can usually clean them out with an old toothbrush and some compressed air, but pilot orifices are generally so inexpensive that it's cheaper and safer to replace them. If you choose to clean them out, use a soft-bristle brush like a toothbrush, and not a wire brush. A wire brush might damage the orifice. Be careful not to push the ash into the orifice and impact it.The surface burner jets are a different animal. The problem is, that pot that boils over can leave some pretty crusty stuff on the burners. The challenge is to get that crusty stuff off without enlarging the gas holes. Sometimes the crusty stuff is not crusty but gummy, and this can be even more fun to get off the burner. There's no magic way to do this. Depending on what's clogging the gas holes, you may be able burn it off, or at least char it so it can be scraped or knocked off. Use a propane torch or one of the other stove burners if you can get it into the correct position. You may also be able to use alcohol or some other non-petroleum solvent to knock it loose. If you do, make sure the solvent is completely gone before you put the burner back into service. (Petroleum-based solvents might leave a residue) Try poking it out with a straight pin if possible. You can use a welding tip cleaner, or a small twist drill, to poke into the holes but only if it fits in the hole with plenty of clearance. Do not use a drill motor with a twist drill; just push it in and out by hand. Use it as if it was a file. Use a twist drill or tip cleaner that is MUCH smaller than the diameter of the hole. Do not use anything with a remote chance of enlarging the hole. Remember, the objective is to take off the crusty stuff without taking off any of the metal. Sometimes a gas stove burner is just too badly clogged, or the holes are too small, and the burner must be replaced.

you must sure is the burner contacts are o.k or the receptacle is faulty see the diagram . You must clean the receptacle, and see if some wires and loose or burn, and repair or replace. However you must sure too if the switches are o.k look for some loose wires or faulty wires and repair, or the switch are faulty test with VOM continuity see the diagram.God bless you

The higher Amp fuses are for the oven elements and the lower amp fuses are for the burners on top and the lighting if applicable. Some models have it printed on a piece of paper next to the fuses holders. Let me know if it helps!

What is the complete model number of your unit?