Hotpoint Dryers - Page 8 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

i would check the moister sensor

Check your thermal fuse. Also, the upper limit thermostat could have taken a nose dive. Another culprit could be the centrifugal switch on the motor, but that's pretty rare. Also, make sure your vent hose and venting system to the outside is clear of any obstructions. That's usually the reason why elements and thermal fuses burn out. Good luck!

could be a bad motor with windings out

check the heating element they might be the problem if they are not getting any power or are open.

there is two screws at the back top each side remove them then lft slightly and with the heel of your hand hit it forward you will find it will move forward and lift off.

It sounds like the device that starts the motor has died. Now you have to find out if you have a capacitor start motor, or one of the induction start types. If it's induction type, the motor will need to be replaced. If it has the capacitive starter, you may only need to replace the capacitor. This type has a large cylindrical cap, located in in a can that resembles a black quonset hut. Some small electrical repair shops will test your motor, if you bring it in, for a minimal charge, or possibly gratis.

Do u want to resolve the f-13 fault code ON HOTPOINT WD860 Ultima Fix the fault . It is a tricky job but the heater thermostat switch has tripped as it senses something burning. Probably a little bit of fluff on the heater element inside the heater unit.. There are 2 switches on top of this heater unit. One where the 2 blue wires go on the top left of the 3rd picture and the other which has a tall black wire connector on shown in the middle of the 3rd picture. Remove that connector and undo the holding screw . You can then reset the switch. The switch is a small circular switch hidden beneather the connector on the photos. This thermostat switch has a yellow. red dot ontop of it. If you use a small pin or needle and press into that dot you will hear it tick back into place. you have reset the switch now. You will probably need to clean the inside of the heater element unit to get rid of the fluff particles or it will keep switching off. To take this apart you will need a set of Star screwdrivers. Its a bit tricky but you will be able to undo the star screws and take them all out. I will add some photos to show you the unit apart. You can see the build up of fluff on the photos i have added from my hotpoint WD860 heater unit. This is a tricky job and takes about an hour due to the screw being awkward to take off and put on again but mine hasnt faulted for 2 years since sorting it out. You can buy a new Thermostat switch which is about 10 pounds sterling from Hotpoint or other spares stores.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs Hey GOD IS GOOD !!!!

If the belt is not broken it is the capacitor on the motor that has gone it is more than likely built into the motor .Which will need changing.

Sounds like a possible bad switch or possibly a bad sensor on the door.

GOD IS STILL GOOD !!!! ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Drum rollers are what supports the drum when it spins, take off the back of dryer and get some WD40 or similar lubricant and spray the shaft that the roller turns on. Also check the belt tensioner this needs to be be sprayed too. But this might be too late and the rollers will need replacing.

DRYER OVERHEATING: Heating Element A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else. Other Causes and Conditions Air Flow Problem Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly. Cycling Thermostat Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced. Felt Seal Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common. Blower Wheel A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q GOD IS still GOOD !!!!

IF UR TALKING BOUT A 3 PRONG THEN IT GOES TO THE BASE UNLESS U HAVE A COPPER JUMPER WHICH CONNECT TO THE MIDDLE AND THE BASE

more than likely a bad push start button switch, test it with a meter

You'll need at LEAST a model number of your dryer to post for help. Even then, your available resource people may or may not have the information you need for that. Good Luck, and Lesson Learned . . you can NEVER write down too much info when you're repairing something you're not totally familiar with. . .

What is the problem with the current wiring please?

It is important not to open the door of the dryer if it is still running. The timer controls the cooling cycle otherwise the clothes will get damaged if kept on hot. It is very likely the timer contacts are frozen at some point and the timer will need some attention. It is not hard to locate it. I cannot find the actual parts drawing for your model (it is good you have provided the full model details). But to help you locate the part I have found another Hotpoint model that may be similar to yours. Check this drawing to see if the front panel is similar. Item 100 is the timer. HOTPOINT Electric Dryer Backsplash blower moto Parts Model NWSR483EB1WW The actual timer for your model looks like this. Hotpoint TVM572P Timer As the clothes are not getting burnt or singed I will assume the thermostat is ok and keeping the temperature within the range.

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE