Honda Electrical Supplies - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

check the sump oil level test the low oil warning system

Carburetor, injectors likely gummed up. It is a common problem. Try spraying carburetor cleaner into the intake and get it to run briefly by burning the cleaner. Keep trying that until you get it to run.

There are several problems it could be other than fuel. Have you checked you have got a spark. Have you checked that the choke is working. Have you checked that the ignition circuit is live when you turn the key to on. Have you checked the air cleaner is not blocked. Have you checked that the exhaust is not blocked. When was the last time you had it serviced.

Hello, everyone. The engine is generally healthy and what bugs me the most, has JUST been overhauled by a good mechanic, which included cleaning the carb, after which it started on 1-3 pulls and ran like magic. Today I went fishing for the first time after not using the boat for about 3 weeks. The engine started fine (with 2/3 choke), I let it warm up a bit, with little-to-none choke. Idle was a tiny bit rough, but nothing major. When I set it on idle for the first time, it ran for about 3 minutes and died. Since then I could only start it with either choke or some throttle and it'd always die quite soon on idle or close to idle. When I try to start it warm with no choke, it'd sound as if it catches and dies off immediately. The plugs are 1 month old and adjusted, oil's in order, no detectable problems with the prop or anything else. I have a suspicion it might be either condensate or some grit in the fuel tank, which was stored in a rather damp place for 3 weeks, half full (although tightly closed). What should I check and is there a way to condition the fuel somehow to remove condensate and clean out eventual b/s from the carb without major mechanical work (I really don't want to pull the boat ashore before autumn)? Thank you!

How to test your Electricity Generator AVR Brushes and Alternator on... You need to run these tests in the video and come back to us with the results. Send your test results to us here: https://www.generatorguru.com/ask-the-guru/ Then we can tell you what the problem is :)

yes alternators are not rotation sensitive

Try changing bad receptacle.

check for low oil level controller

Is the battery fully charged or has it been load tested?

SSounds like either you have a hole in the muffler or the muffler bolts loosened up.

http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/pe/pdf/manuals/31ZT7601.pdf I would check spark arrester and clean it and the muffler first.lt could be the inverter unit. If you have a meter determine the output voltage, and freq. You would need a scope to look at waveform the repair should be lest to a repair center. suggest you call Honda for more guidance. You could spend a lot of money on maybe parts./

Hi there dirty plugs or fuel system

replace the 20 amp fuse that is inline to the starter. you will find it wired in above the battery.

Bad earth connection to the key switch as these magneto types only earth the coil wire to turn ignition off. Check for loose connections or faulty switch

Sticky inlet valves

You need a volt meter an ammeter and a variable power supply and with ohms law the resistance can be calculated. V=IR thus resistance is the applied voltage devided by the current R=V/I Set the psu till a convenient current is indicated on the ammeter and take an accurate voltage reading and do your calculation. Normal multimeters cannot read reliably below one ohm and these rotors do have a low resistance

Residual magnetism of the rotor out. Lift one brush off the slip rings and flash a 12 volt battery on the rings. Reconnect brushes and start engine no output? Repeat then seek help as I need to put my grippers on it to check

Do not fiddle take it back for warranty repairs

Normally 25 thou

THAT POOR ENGINE HAD TO RUN WITHOUT LUBRICANT AND IS SEIZED UP