Hobart Welding Tools - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

What is the duty cycle of the welder?

If it is new i would not play around with the welder Just take it back to where you bought it get them to replace it under warranty

If you completely remove wire from unit does it still slowdown and stop when you pull trigger?
If yes, then 2 most common problems are
A. Thermistor @ position PTC1 on circuit board
B. Drive Roller Motor

To diagnose, locate thermistor @ position PTC1 in upper middle part of circuit board.
It's yellowish round and about 1/2" in diameter.
Jumper Accross the 2 leads, use a small insulated screwdriver or meter probe.


1. Pull trigger on gun, when motor slows or stops then jumper the leads, if it speeds back up then it's the Thermistor
Replace with a Raychem RXE 1.85A @ 72 v
Or comparable, try EBay

2. If no change, isolate motor by removing the 2 leads and connect a 9-12 volt DC battery source, does motor spin? If not then motor is problem. If motor spins and is constant then additional troubleshooting needed, next possible issues are bad resistor or scr

Those parts have long been discontinued. www.usaweld.com has a conversion kit that will convert the original Piecemaker 14A gun to the current hobart H10 parts.

Bob, Those parts have long been discontinued. www.usaweld.com might have an adapter kit if you have a piecemaker 14A gun, or they have a complete replacement welding gun.

Check the Switch on the handle. Many times the two wires from the trigger down to the Mig Unit break or get a bad connection

Look under welder dealers in your town. Most will be able to sell you parts or order what you need.

check main contactor or diode bank.

What have you tried so far?

Check to see if the wire feed pressure is set correctly. Sounds like it's a little loose.

Not a question.

Do an internet search.

First, UNPLUG the Welder! There is a small control board (2"x2") that the feed motor plugs into, it has a fuse on it. Here is what you do: Follow the circuit board trace that goes from one side of the fuse though a resistor then to the connector full of wires on the edge of the board, check that resistor for continuity it should read some value besides open. If it is open, this is your problem (as the drive motor ages it draws slightly more current than new, which should blow fuse, but instead blows the resistor). The resistor should be replaced with same resistance value, if problem persists replace again but instead of 1/4amp bump up to a 3/4amp for $1 or replace that drive motor for $150, you choose. Good Luck!

NOTE: As with any circuit board, take precautions to prevent ESD damage to board.

turn the wire speed down

Could be something as simple as worn brushes, dirty slip rings, or a bad bridge rectifier. If you know how to check them, these are all something you could fix. If it's anything beyond those, you're best bet would be take it to a repair facility. I repaired welders for 18+ years. (just an FYI)

I was a service tech/manager for 10 years and had my repair business for another 8 years after I left the company I worked for. Can't really remember that exact machine's theory of operation, but check your weld output contactor. Sounds like it might possibly be stuck In the closed position.

http://fileshare.eshop.bg/download_start.php?downloadurlid=62919

i took an old trickle battery charger,6 volts and energize the armmiture,all so called polarizing,google it ,shows how also