HM Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Yes.... try to turn the choke off as soon as possible after start, a cold motor reving hard is not a great idea!. Cheers.

I assume it is a 4 stroke engine, so this is a probable fault coming due to the carburator.You may need to strip down the carb and give it a good clean.Also make sure there is petrol running smoothly to the carb.It seems a problem with petrol flow or air intake.Both has the same end problems.Now if this is a 2 stroke engine then it may have a problem with the valve, could be the cause of a broken blade.Good luck with it.

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If the float is not stuck the needle and seat are not sealing, it could be a worn needle/seat or dirt jamming the needle. With fuel running out of the overflow, your engine should be flooding if anything (and this will also prevent it from starting) check to see if the spark plug is very wet after you have tried to start it several times.

sorry but we have no wiring diagrams for this motorcycle here at fixya, u will need to contact the dealer and purchase a manual for the bike

Check your gear oil. (tranny fluid) - if it's jerking, it may be the gears - or if not, your clutch may need replaced.

carsandcomps,

Guru, Premium Expert @Fixya.com

I appreciate your efforts to explain your problem, but we need to know what brand etc and what you were doing when the error showed


you are also listed under MOTORCYCLES which is confusing when u speak of T SHIRT STAMPERS

It may be easier to contact the distributors regarding this error.

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Guessing i'm going to say between 18-20 MM.

i always just put some on the o-ring before i put it back in but no you dont need to have oil on it,

with the dip stick unscrewed and resting on the top of the fill hole. Kinda curious about what to do. Thanks all.Was that with or without the filter change? It's possible that you are checking the spec for not having changed the filter. A fresh filter will require more oil. My $.02 - If it's in the marks, it's good to go.,,,

though if it was a problem it would have blown the 10amp fuse????Don't rely on on whether the bike will start at a gas station to determine if the charging system is working. Get the multimeter out and do a proper test. Should be getting about 14.5 volts @ around 3K RPM. It's too easy of a test to to just skip. If it is charging then start looking for something else. Was the new battery properly charged to begin with? Loose battery connection? I suppose the GPS could be too much but you said that it was dying last november so I would suspect something else. P.S. you need a properly charged battery to get an accurate reading for the charging test. ,,,

From what I can find online it seems to be performance pipes so I'd say boost. (Of course leaving the stock baffles in.) Stock VTX1300R is rated at 75 HP so you're probably looking at about 80-85 HP depending on how generously you rejet. If you've gotta pass emissions and don't wanna rejet before each time I'd say about 78-80 if you go full race to heck with fuel efficiency I want power you could probably pull 85 with the stock carb. Wrider,,,

loosen top pinch bolts loosen caps remove forks remove springs , fill according to manual level . re-instal everything .,,,

even mixing at 32:1 looks like straight gas. Not cloudy at all. I understand that it is a beige color but it is undetectable by sight in the gas. After a tear in the fuel line coming out of the carb I noticed this and immediately drained the gas tank figuring that there was an error. But made a new batch and the same thing happened. Has anyone else had this this problem or have noticed this?No worries, a lot of new low-smoke and synthetic 2 stroke oil is not readily detectable in the gas. If you want something that is easy to see in the gas try something with color added. Kawasaki makes a blended racing oil that has a dark green color added and is easily seen in the gas. I used to use it but switched to a full synthetic. I now use Castrol and it is undetectable once you mix it in the gas. Trust me, if you ran plain gas you would know it very, very soon!,,,

the bike will like backfire/misfire and if i hold the throttle steady it will backfire like 2 times again....and it does this while riding at a steady pace too...it just started it didint do it a week ago. i didnt change anything except a new air filter..fuel screw is 2.5 turns out . the timing valve clearances and everything is in spec. is this a sympton of it being rich or lean? and it doesnt do it on chokeYes, it could (and probably is) be an air leak. Check to be sure the carb is tight in the intake manifold, and make sure the hot-start isn't loose and is sealing properly. Also make sure all of the exhaust system joints are tight, an air leak in the exhaust will make a four-stroke pop and backfire like an old work truck with no muffler...,,,

and had the bike souped for it. Anyway the throttle is SUPER touchy.. You breath on it and it takes off.. Because of this I ended up dumpin it 30 min after I got on..haha... My question is is there a way to stiffen up the throttle so that i have to crank the grip harder to give it gas? I am very inexperienced, and when it took off, i tensed up, hittin the throttle even harder. I know i will appreciate the the responsiveness when I get more experience, but i dont want to die in the process..lol.. thanks for you help! ,UYou need to learn to hold on to the bike with your legs, so you aren't pulling on the bars during acceleraion. The throttles are supposed to be easy to turn, so that it will snap completely closed when you let off. You can replace the throttle cam (the part that the cable attaches to) with a slower-opening unit that will give you more control. The amount you have to turn the throttle from closed to full-open will stay thesame, but it will open slower in the first half of the throttle pull, keeping you from getting such an abrupt surge of power. Once you get a little more time on the bike, you won't have this issue any longer. You will learn proper throttle control, and your wrist will get used to the throttle pull. ,,,

ProClean is good stuff but not worth the money. The only reason I had it was because I won a create of it at our clubs Supercross race it's too expensive in my opinion. I buy 40 litre containers of stuff called TFR which stands for Traffic Film Remover, it basically is a detergent like ProClean, Simple Green and all the others, only it costs a fraction of the price and isn't deluted. This means you can delute it to your own strength for different causes. You can see it removing dirt as you watch, like someone said above. You can not use it pure on the bike however, it will make alloy parts go dull - as my buddy found out lol. ,,,

Red Express read the title he wants to change the needle clip position. Heres how to do it: 1. Loosen the cap from the top of the carb and pull out the slide. 2. Compress the spring and fiddle with the cable untill it pops out 3. Now, there should be a small bolt covering the needle, remove it 4. Pull out the needle and remove the c-clip, adjust to desired position (down to richen, up to lean) 5. Put needle back in and install bolt 6. Install cable 7. install slide and top cap 8. Fire it up and finish tuning carb.,,,

I have an 04 125 with a FMF fatty Factroy expansion chamber and a Titanium 2 FMF silencer (shorty) the carb settings are Pilot a size leaner than stock main IS stock jet needle is a setting toward lean and air screw is two turns out. My gas:oil mix is around 32:1 - 40:1.. My spark plug buget is killing me, and I havemessed with it til I was blue in the face can anyone help me?,don't worry I didn't take it wrong it is a good question, and let me put it this way.. I run it like a two stroke lol I have had more than my share of two strokes so I don't lolly gag it and usually for the trails I ride you really can't get out of 1st most of the timeI spend most my time around 3/4 throttle. When I 1st got the bike I had a friend messing with the idle screw on it cause it wouldn't idle at all and he messed with the mix screw by accident so I think it was screwed out more than two turns but I set it according to FMF recommendations with the pipe and chamber. The guy who had it before me raced it in a AMA class I don't know which so don't ask lol, so who knows what has been done to it other than what I can see,,,

even mixing at 32:1 looks like straight gas. Not cloudy at all. I understand that it is a beige color but it is undetectable by sight in the gas. After a tear in the fuel line coming out of the carb I noticed this and immediately drained the gas tank figuring that there was an error. But made a new batch and the same thing happened. Has anyone else had this this problem or have noticed this?No worries, a lot of new low-smoke and synthetic 2 stroke oil is not readily detectable in the gas. If you want something that is easy to see in the gas try something with color added. Kawasaki makes a blended racing oil that has a dark green color added and is easily seen in the gas. I used to use it but switched to a full synthetic. I now use Castrol and it is undetectable once you mix it in the gas. Trust me, if you ran plain gas you would know it very, very soon!,,,