Heartland Refrigerators - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

It is either the metal hinge points which can be silicone lubed or it is your seal rubbing on something which can be cleaned and should go away.

Hi, How long does this temperature issue last? When you notice this issue how long does this sit at the hire temp, 1 hour? I am trying to understand why Heartland/Marvel would ask you to turn it off. Please let me know. Thanks I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

hhttp://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.htm

I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Hello Steve, welcome to FixYa.

I understand based on your description you have a Heartland 3310 stainless steel (SS) fridge that compressor nor the condensor fan is suddenly not coming on....though the compressor is quite hot, correct ?

Unfortunate that these things seem to happen at the worst time, but this would be something I would consider calling in an authorized appliance technician, but the place I would start is as follows, check the compressor as shown below and if o.k. replace that start relay asap. That is the most likely culprit...but it can be the control itself, though unlikely in my almost 20 yrs. experience.

As I said If you feel like you can trouble shoot further I`ve provided the following info to assist you or you may decide to call a professional appliance technician (as I recommend)...it's your call.

I don`t know the age of your fridge, but I should mention...

** I don't know the age of your fridge, but most of the manufacturers of fridges have 5 to 10 years sealed system warranty which would include the compressor but not the electrical starting devices i.e., the overload & relay. Check your owners manual, it is the ultimate authority on warranty no matter what anyone else tells you according to your manufacturer.**

The info I have is a generalization from Heartland...

Limited Warranty - Major Refrigeration ComponentsSecond Through Fifth Year - After the first year from the original date of purchase, through the fifth year , the manufacturer will repair or replace, at its option, free of charge for parts and labor only, any part of the sealed refrigera-tion system (consisting of the compressor, evaporator, condenser, drier and connecting tubing) and the cabinet liner (exclusive of the door liner) which fail in normal home use. All other costs, including mileage, transportation, trip charge and diagnostic charge, if required, shall be the responsibility of the owner.

Aside from that, If you have a multi- meter you can check the compressor to see if the windings are ok.

**First, Unplug the fridge**

Remove the panel at the back down at the bottom. This should gain you access to the compressor. On the side of the compressor will be the start relay/overload assembly such as this image...it may be enclosed in a black plastic cover as well.


Pull off the relay & overload and you'll see 3 pins in the form of a triangle...


With a meter measure between any 2 pins at one time, going between each pin with one remaining on a "common" pin.

You'll want 3 measurement's, similar to this example- 6ohms, 3ohms, and 9ohms.

On some meters you may simply get a reading of "0" ohms, as long as the needle moves off of "infinity" which would indicate an "open" winding = not good !

If following that, the readings are good, purchase a hard start kit. Part # HS410 also known as a 3in1 starter kit.

i.e.



The above package contains info and hardware on how to connect it.

**NOTE : the HS410 ( 3 in 1 ) should be considered just a temporary "fix" as opposed to an actual "repair" in should not be relied on for long term reliability or safety, but rather thefactory replacemnet, double check with your model number**

Hope that help`s move you forward if nothing else. If so please take a second and rate the guidance and a testimony to your inquiry you received here at FixYa, either or all is appreciated.

Let me know how it goes and Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

its can be defrost problem.But still whats the exact model number of the unit.As per that the exact problem can be detected. Is it old model or new model.? --------- Is there any water leak noticed in fridge section , then yes its defrost issue.------ --- Keep updated with details.

If the defrost hearer was not working you will have lots of ice build-up. It sounds like you have a drain line problem and the water is staying in the evaporator compartment. Try cleaning the drain out.

Check to see if there is power getting to the compressor. If there is you probably just need to replace the overload relay that attaches to the compressor. There is the possibility you will need a new compressor, but usually you will hear something. There are 3 terminals on the compressor, one by itself, and two side by side. The one by itself is common, the other two are start and run. With a meter check common to start, then run. Both should be below 10 ohms and the start terminal has slightly higher resistance than the run terminal.

If you dont have power, you will have to trace power back to the control board, or the thermostat. I can give you more detailed instructions if you give me the full model number.

Hope this helps.

sounds like the cooling fan for the condenser is bad

Some models are different...I hope this helps.

Replacing Light Bulbs
To avoid electrical shock which can cause severe personal injury or death, disconnect power to refrigerator before replacing light bulb. After replacing light bulb, reconnect power.
To avoid personal injury or property damage, observe the following:
• Allow light bulb to cool.
• Wear gloves when replacing light bulb.
Fresh Food Section
(style of light shield varies)
1. Slide clear light shield toward back of compartment to release from light assembly.
2. Remove light bulbs.
3. Replace with appliance bulbs no greater than 40 watts.
4. Replace light bulb cover by inserting tabs on light shield into liner holes on each side of light assembly. Slide shield toward front of refrigerator until it locks into place. Do not force shield beyond locking point. Doing so may damage light shield.
Freezer (style of light shield varies)
1. Reach behind the light cover.
2. With firm pressure, press forward on the notches at the back of the cover and pull down the cover will open from the back.
3. Remove the cover.
4. Remove light bulb
5. Replace bulb with appliance bulb no greater than 40 watts.
6. Insert front tabs of light cover into slots in freezer liner and snap rear portion over light assembly until rear tab engages.

Ric

yes it is

Here are some troubleshooting steps you can try: Verify the unit is cooling properly. If the fan does not come on when the fan switch is pressed for several minutes, it may be faulty . If the lights are out inside a refrigeration unit, see Refrigerator or Freezer Light Switch Information .Sub Zero Interior Lights Turned Off ' How to Guide (subzero-wolf.com) Sub Zero Refrigerator or Freezer Fan Switch Information (subzero-wolf.com) If these steps do not resolve the issue, no further troubleshooting advice is available. Contact Factory Certified Service to schedule an appointment for repair .

Question edited for clarity. Help and videos in the link. However it is 40 years old and has probably seen better days. There isn't much you can do if it needs refrigerant gas as you need a certified engineer. https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+Norcold+8310+series+RV+refrigerator+that+isn%27t+working ..

Copper has anantibacterial effect. Studies recommend storing water in copper containers for several hours before consumption to maximize this benefit. Some research suggests 48 hours. perhaps explore dedicatedcopper water bottlesfrom reputable sources for optimal water storage. This refers to water, not juices.

All questions need 'make model (what it is) first 3 words please. https://www.google.com/search?q=Refrigerator+Question+mark+flashing+next+to+temperature+numbers ..

https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=Ice+dispenser+won%27t+stop+running&type=E210US1494G0#id=2&vid=30691769491d1616470402498715efe1&action=click This may not be your model but could help you.

This is your freezer. https://www.google.com/search?q=Artic+Air+Model+AF49EX My advice is to check the defrost heater for efficiency and also for correct placement. You could also add an additional heater rod or heater blanket to the place where is freezes up. https://www.google.com/search?q=Artic+Air+Model+AF49EX+defrost+heater ..

Yes, or you find a 12 year old child. In most cases they are already calibrated. You can ask the shop to show you how to adjust either are the showroom or in your home. Or phone Hotpoint Customer Support. There are a couple of videos in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+Air+Tech+Evolution+fridge+freezer ..

Condenser coils blocked with fluff. Door gasket leaking and letting the cold out. Loss of refrigerant gas. Faulty Thermostat / Thermistor. https://www.google.com/search?q=sub+zero+611+compressor+running+continuously ..

Remove all bottles and shelves from the unit. Unplug the power cord from the outlet and wait for the unit to cool down completely. Locate the screws that secure the boards to the back wall of the unit and remove them with a screwdriver. Carefully pull out the boards and disconnect any wires or connectors attached to them. Replace the boards with new ones and reconnect any wires or connectors. Secure the boards to the back wall with the screws and tighten them firmly. Plug the power cord back into the outlet and turn on the unit. Reinstall the shelves and bottles and adjust the temperature settings as desired.

The defrost timer in a Hisense upside-down fridge freezer, model number HR6BMFF520S, is typically located within the control panel or the refrigerator compartment. Here are the general steps to locate it:

1. Check the Control Panel: Start by inspecting the control panel of the refrigerator. Look for any knobs, buttons, or switches that control the defrost cycle. The defrost timer may be integrated into this panel.
2. Inside the Refrigerator Compartment: If you don't find the defrost timer in the control panel, check inside the refrigerator compartment. It might be located near the temperature control settings or the light fixture. You may need to remove any covers or panels to access it.
3. Consult the User Manual: If you're having trouble locating the defrost timer, refer to the user manual that came with your fridge freezer. It often contains detailed diagrams and information about the location of various components, including the defrost timer.
4. Contact Hisense Customer Support: If you're still unable to locate the defrost timer, consider reaching out to Hisense customer support for assistance. They can provide specific guidance based on your refrigerator model and help you locate the timer.

Once you've located the defrost timer, you can follow the manufacturer's instructions for troubleshooting or replacing it if necessary.