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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor has oil in the bowl due to excessive oil in pre-mix.
14. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
15. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
16. Fuel filter clogged.
17. Old or contaminated fuel.
18. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
19. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
20. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
21. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
22. Incorrect valve timing.
23. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
24. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
25. Incompatible performance parts.
26. The control module may be in "LIMP" mode
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Engine misfire and hesitation Harley Davidson Forums 84 to 99 Harley Softail Service Manual pdf http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/vehicle/lookupForm free owners manual Instant Repair Help over the Phone to speak to me personally $4

1993 Harley... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Tgolovio oil leaking from your air cleaner is caused by oil carryover from the engine. For whatever reason, the breather system is not separating enough oil mist and air from the piston downstroke. There are cheap and quick easy fixes and there are more expensive ones. First, make sure your breather hoses are not dry-cracked-pinched if they are ok you can start by trying the following:
1. Run your oil level half way between the add and full mark when hot.
2. Run oil breather lines from the head into a TEE fitting below carb/induction module then a single line into a mini filter or PVC valve under the frame.
3. Purchase Arlen Ness Super Sucker.
4. Replace umbrella valves and realign oil pump.
5. Replace piston rings and follow proper driving seating procedures
6. Upgrade oil pump and cam plate.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
oil leak air cleaner Harley Davidson Forums 84 to 99 Harley Softail Service Manual pdf http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/vehicle/lookupForm free owners manual Instant Repair Help over the Phone to speak to me personally $4

2000 Harley... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Peter for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2010 Harley... | Answered on Oct 16, 2018


Hi, Christine a proper clutch adjustment for big twins starts by squirting some silicone spray or Brake Kleen into the top of the rubber boot on the clutch cable and sliding it back exposing the cable adjuster. Loosen the jam nut and turn the adjusting screw all the way in so your clutch lever has excessive slop. Remove the Derby cover, loosen the jam nut on the clutch pack adjuster screw and screw it in until light resistance is felt against the clutch rod then back the adjusting screw out 3/4 of a turn and tighten the jam nut.
Check primary fluid level and replace Derby cover unless you are running an early model "Dry Clutch" leave the Derby cover off. Go back to the clutch cable adjuster and back it out until there is 1/8" free play between the clutch lever and the bracket perch. This is correctly accomplished by pulling the clutch cable end outward with your right hand and pulling the clutch lever in with your left hand and modest pressure on both hands to eyeball the free play. Tighten cable adjuster jam nut and slide rubber boot back to its original position.
On Dry Clutch Models you need to square the pressure plate by adjusting the 3 stud nuts on the outside of the pressure plate so that when the clutch lever is pulled in the pressure plate shoots "STRAIGHT" out and disengages evenly.
On Sportster models, the procedure is the same except the clutch cable adjuster screws directly into the primary cover with a jam nut. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to Adjust Clutch Cable Lever on Harley Davidson Law Abiding Biker...
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2011 Harley... | Answered on Oct 15, 2018


Hi, Mark and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Open-short-ground in the wiring between the alternator to the ignition module/CDI box to the ignition coil.
5. Faulty pins or sockets in the plug connectors.
6. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module/CDI box.
8. Faulty pulse coil.
9. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
10. Faulty ignition switch.
11. Faulty run/off switch
12. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
13. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 15, 2018


Hi, Tim and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump.
24. Faulty pump relay or fuse.
25. Faulty ignition system relay.
26. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
27. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
28. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
29. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 14, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 14, 2018


Hi, Johnny 84172 is not an error code it is the current PPU (pulses per unit) number that has been downloaded to your ECM and is used to calibrate your speedometer. If you change tire size and or gearing your speedometer will become inaccurate and you need to recalibrate the speedometer, this can be done at your local Harley dealer or you can go online and purchase a calibration tool that is plug n play for around $100 there is a difference between stock EFI calibrations that may be causing some of the speed signal related issues you encounter. The stock calibrations for 2004 & later model years will write a PPU Value to the ECM. The current stock calibrations for 2003 & earlier models do not. The PPU Value is what controls the speed displayed on the speedometer, which in turn controls the turn signal cancellation. If you have downloaded a 2004 & later stock calibration into an ECM it should not be used on a 2003 or earlier motorcycle; the speedometer and turn signals will not function correctly even after updating the VIN and calibration to match the vehicle. SPEEDOMETER TROUBLE CODES - TROUBLE - WIRE COLOR
d01 - speed sensor power output shorted low - red
d02 - speed sensor power output shorted high - red
d03 - not used
d04 - not used
d05 - speed sensor return shorted high - white
d06 - speed sensor return shorted low - white
d07 - not used
d08 - speedometer power overvoltage - orange/white
d09 - speed output shorted high - white/green
d10 - speed output shorted low or open - white/green
5 digit number - speedometer pulses per unit
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Diagnostic Code PPU 84172 on Dyna Harley Davidson Forums Harley Davidson Dyna Glide Twin Cam 88 Service Manual
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2001 Harley... | Answered on Oct 09, 2018


Hi, Ernie for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Removal of front fender on Heritage Softail Classic Harley Davidson Forums
Remove install front wheel tire fender from Harley Davidson Motorcycle Law...
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Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 08, 2018


Hi, Scott you have no fuses only circuit breakers underneath the speedometer housing in between the fuel tanks, before testing any electrical component in the Turn Signal Light Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, "AGM" batteries fall into this category more so than lead-acid types, also before diagnosing any turn signal/running light/parking light issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If you have replaced your OEM lights with one or all LED lights you are going to need a load equalizer.
If no turn signals are working the cause could be a faulty turn signal module/flasher or the connector going to it, look for, corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion.
If your turn signal comes on but takes several seconds before it starts flashing you may have dirty contacts in the turn signal switch/button, the switch needs to be opened up and cleaned also the flasher may be starting to fail. It should be noted that cold weather will only exacerbate the situation especially when temperatures drop down below freezing and the location of the component, turn signal switches on the handlebar are at the mercy of the oncoming freezing 70 mph wind and makes it hard for the contacts to do their job covered in frozen grease/grime
If all four turn signals flash at the same time like hazard lights even though you only pressed one turn signal button then you have a LED light in the circuit and need a load equalizer that can be purchased from any motorcycle parts supplier.
If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function.
If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction.
If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first, for corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire.
If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector.
If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 08, 2018


Hi, Skunk for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2002 Harley... | Answered on Oct 07, 2018


Hi, Mylo and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2006 Harley... | Answered on Oct 07, 2018


Hi, Peter for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2000 Harley... | Answered on Oct 07, 2018


Hi, Nathan and the usual suspects are:
1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging.
2. Bent shift shaft.
3. Shift fork bent or seized.
4. Gear seized on the shaft.
5. Gear positioning lever binding.
6. Shift return springs weak or broken.
7. Shift return spring pin loose
8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
9. Shift mechanism arm is broken.
10. Shift drum is broken.
11. Shift lever is loose on the shift shaft.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2008 Harley... | Answered on Oct 07, 2018


Hi, Stephen for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Harley... | Answered on Oct 05, 2018


There are usually at least three connections to the starter solenoid - two are generally physically larger and designed to carry starter current. One of them will be connected to the starter motor and the other connected to the battery.

Depending on the circuit, if the relay is a starter relay its purpose is to provided the current to energise the solenoid and will be connected to the smaller terminal.

Harley Davidson... | Answered on Oct 04, 2018


Hi, Steve for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Harley... | Answered on Sep 27, 2018

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