Goulds Pumps Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Question edited for clarity, 'Hmms' to 'hums'. Question moved from Cars and Trucks category. If it hums, it means the start/run capacitor on the motor has failed and needs replacing. https://www.google.com/search?q=GOULD+BGR75+humms ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Cars and Trucks to a Goulds category. Contact the maker of the supplier. It sounds like they left out a gasket or seal. https://www.google.com/search?q=Goulds+GT07+pump+leaking+water ..

pump not running possible start/run capacitor failure pump seized, no water to/from the pump

Unable to relate the number given to the design duty, Check out the manual http://www.aquascience.net/downloads/dl/file/id/1000/product/0/goulds_jet_pump_installation.pdf

could be several things that cause this. I would first try increasing the spread between the upper and lower limits. it they are set too close together you can get this kind of bouncing on and off. Also, how old is the switch? as they age they get less and less accurate at reading the pressure accurately and this could be the problem. Longer shot, could be a leak in the well check valve. Water leaking back down into the well and that keeps turning the pump back on when there are no faucets open. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/marc_162a3912222e83a4

If its discharging all the time, I would say its sucking up contaminated water but if only occasionally, that would suggest something is rusting / deteriorating in the system and it "grows" when the pump is not in use. I would have a close look at the source tank(s), the connecting pipework and as a last resort, disconnect the pump and have a look inside the pump chamber.

replace the gasket

George: There is a packing or valve in the pump that is supposed to keep water in the pump. Either a packing (O ring) or a one-way valve has failed. If it is a "one way valve" there may be a piece of gunk holding the valve open allowing the prime to drain out of the pump.

If you've got the water turned all the way on, it sounds like your setup is operating normal. If the pump where turning of and on say every 5 seconds or so I would say to check the air pressure in the water holding tank that it's at the correct pressure.

Once you take off the front cover. You will see the impeller. Take of the rear cover and the shaft has a flat spot on it. You can hold it with a open ended wrench and spin off the impeller. It will be tight. There is no need to take it off unless it's broken.

Normally there is a pressure TANK, used in conjunction with a Booster pump. Do you have one on this system? That's where the pressure is stored. If no pressure, the bladder is either failing or has failed.

to make it easy to prime a pump I put a "T" piece in the suction line close to the pump. When it needs priming I take out the plug and put water in the line until the pump is full

Wiring diagrams for pump motors are usually on the inside of the cover of the wire access cover or on the motor tag. If this is a 1/2 HP motor it could possibly be wired 125V or 250V. Be sure to wire for correct voltage.

Have you checked the pump intake for any blockage?

check the water level in the well as it may be too deep for the pump to lift the water and maintain the pressure. Are you using a straight pump or an injection pump that helps lift the water to the pump. remember that centrifugal pumps only supply a vacuum in the suction line and atmospheric pressure on the water does the rest. when the weight of the water is equal to the pressure of the air the pump will not lift any more

The impellers screw on. Hold motor shaft and unscrew.

I think the pressure switch is cycling your pump when there is a low demand. If your system has a pressure tank, it is waterlogged (has no air in it). If you shut down you system, drain the tank, and the restart you system, it should work. Most tanks are made to be pressurized to a certain pressure before starting up your system. Some tanks have a 'tire valve' on them for pressurizing with air.

Hi David, The first thing I would check would be water level in all the toilet tanks on this system. If the level is too high in any one of them you may be getting a very slight amount of water overflowing into your toilet which could cause the pump to kick in as described. If the water level is clearly below the the top of the overflow tube. If that is not the problem I would then check to see that you have the correct adjustment on the high/low pessure setting screws. It is important that there is sufficent pressure differences between the two or it will behave as described. Another possibility is the air pressure level in your pressure tank. Make sure it has adequate pressure as per manufacturers instructions. Finally if none of the above were the problem I would invest in a LINEAR one way valve (about $25.00) and install that between the pump and your pressure tank. If your problem is still un-resolved then you do have a leak somewhere and will have to track it down... hot water tank, dish washer, clothes washer.... Good Luck Alan

pull the foot valve as it takes very little to allow the water to drain back out. Personally I would replace all pipes in the hole with heavy duty /high pressure plastic agricultural irrigation pipes

Make sure your tank is well pressurized and not water logged.Is there a significant difference between your cut in and cut off pressure.Check for leaks -water or air.