Goulds Pumps Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Question edited for clarity, 'Hmms' to 'hums'. Question moved from Cars and Trucks category. If it hums, it means the start/run capacitor on the motor has failed and needs replacing. https://www.google.com/search?q=GOULD+BGR75+humms ..

If its discharging all the time, I would say its sucking up contaminated water but if only occasionally, that would suggest something is rusting / deteriorating in the system and it "grows" when the pump is not in use. I would have a close look at the source tank(s), the connecting pipework and as a last resort, disconnect the pump and have a look inside the pump chamber.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Cars and Trucks to a Goulds category. Contact the maker of the supplier. It sounds like they left out a gasket or seal. https://www.google.com/search?q=Goulds+GT07+pump+leaking+water ..

Once you take off the front cover. You will see the impeller. Take of the rear cover and the shaft has a flat spot on it. You can hold it with a open ended wrench and spin off the impeller. It will be tight. There is no need to take it off unless it's broken.

pump not running possible start/run capacitor failure pump seized, no water to/from the pump

Unable to relate the number given to the design duty, Check out the manual http://www.aquascience.net/downloads/dl/file/id/1000/product/0/goulds_jet_pump_installation.pdf

George: There is a packing or valve in the pump that is supposed to keep water in the pump. Either a packing (O ring) or a one-way valve has failed. If it is a "one way valve" there may be a piece of gunk holding the valve open allowing the prime to drain out of the pump.

could be several things that cause this. I would first try increasing the spread between the upper and lower limits. it they are set too close together you can get this kind of bouncing on and off. Also, how old is the switch? as they age they get less and less accurate at reading the pressure accurately and this could be the problem. Longer shot, could be a leak in the well check valve. Water leaking back down into the well and that keeps turning the pump back on when there are no faucets open. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/marc_162a3912222e83a4

replace the gasket

It can be water loged you need to drain some water out of your tank and put 35 psi air in it,

If you've got the water turned all the way on, it sounds like your setup is operating normal. If the pump where turning of and on say every 5 seconds or so I would say to check the air pressure in the water holding tank that it's at the correct pressure.

Normally there is a pressure TANK, used in conjunction with a Booster pump. Do you have one on this system? That's where the pressure is stored. If no pressure, the bladder is either failing or has failed.

the pressure shut off control switch is not working or adjusted properly.

check for foreign objects jamming the impeller. have the motor tested for failure.

pull the foot valve as it takes very little to allow the water to drain back out. Personally I would replace all pipes in the hole with heavy duty /high pressure plastic agricultural irrigation pipes

to make it easy to prime a pump I put a "T" piece in the suction line close to the pump. When it needs priming I take out the plug and put water in the line until the pump is full

check the water level in the well as it may be too deep for the pump to lift the water and maintain the pressure. Are you using a straight pump or an injection pump that helps lift the water to the pump. remember that centrifugal pumps only supply a vacuum in the suction line and atmospheric pressure on the water does the rest. when the weight of the water is equal to the pressure of the air the pump will not lift any more