General Electric Water Heaters - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

I had the same problem. The valve is not seating properly. I first took a plastic bag and placed it over the unit so it didn't spray all over, then, pushed the button several times to try to flush it. I then shut the water supply off (or move lever to bypass) and removed the cannister that holds the filter. I activated the red button several times until it looked like it seated well. Keep as much water in the cannister(sump) as you can and still have the filter seated properly. Screw it back on, and open the water supply slowly to fill the rest of the way. Don't push the red button again, but instead open a faucet in your house for around 5 minutes to let air circulate out. If the red button still leaks, you may have to try a few times. If it leaks just a little it may stop after a day or so. Once you get the red button to stop leaking, don't push it again! Just always use the open faucet method to work the air out. There will still be some air bubbles for awhile, but will work out within a day

GE knows there is a problem with this and will send a serviceman out with parts to fix free of charge even if you are out of warranty as I was. Just call them at 888-443-4394

First try turning the knob all the way to "pilot" then turn it all the way to its hottest setting.

It sounds like the thermostat/sensor is stuck. This may jar it into working again.

Also look for any leakage or water around the burner.

You will probably have to replace the gas valve in the near future.

Also try tapping the side of the gas valve.

I solved the problem! The system's manifold (the plastic base you put the filter in) has small black conical shape button. When you tight the filter in, one of the two small triangle-shaped cams (located close to the filter's central hole) pushes the manifold's button, and this opens the water flow. The problem is that the cams are too low and do not push the button all the way in. Take a pliers and squeeze (not too much!) the cams, so they will raise a little: it will be enough to push the button to open the flow completely.

I think the part number listed is for the filter only.

You can't. You need a new ignitor. The only way to do it would be to change to an older style gas valve with a standing pilot and a thermocouple. This would be cost prohibitive. Also, if this is a power-vented heater, you can't change to conventional pilot because the gas valve links to the control circuit for the blower. An old gas valve does not. Good luck!

These replacement filters (GXRLQR) are FLAWED straight out of the factory. The problem is in the 2 little "teeth" nubs that stick up near the center circle of the filter. When the filter is twisted and inserted, these teeth push up on a tiny black spring loaded valve in the body of the filter, alowing water to pass through up and out the spigot. The flaw is that the "nubs" are too short and do not push open the spring valve far enough, reducing flow to a semi-trickle, even with a brand new filter. GE seems to think this is not a problem.

Solution=stick a $0.25 garden hose rubber washer in the top of the filter and screw it in. You may have to try a few times to get it to work and seat properly. When it works, you'll immediately get a nice super flow of water. Better than upgrading to a $200 filter system recommended by GE...

If you have an expansion tank mounted near the water heater, it may be full. If it is full, the bladder inside the has ruptured and the tank needs replacing.

If the thermocouple is OK, the combustion air vents may need to be cleaned. Otherwise, the combustion shutoff device has probably tripped which will need to be replaced.

You have to give us more to go on other than this.

You may want to supply more information if you want an answer.

This is a statement not a question.

Dear J, Whenever I get a request like yours, I am happy, because I may bless you by preventing your house or apartment having a fire. Breakers are designed specifically to prevent fires, and if yours is popping, you have a short circuit somewhere, and if you keep turning it back on, one day the short will start an electrical fire. (I am a retired fire chief.) Have an electrician test your timer for the problem. God bless your efforts.

1) For gas: Turn off gas to heater:http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Gas-water-heater-89-valve-2.jpg2) For electric: Turn off circuit breaker.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#veryhot3) For gas: Copy following link to identify gas control valve thermostat, and troubleshoot by type of gas control.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent4) For gas: Gas control valve thermostat has probably gone bad.5) Add comment and give clear description of water heater.6) Call plumber. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

That is the drain for the reverse osmosis system. You have what is referred to as an AIR GAP faucet. The waste water is pushed up there before it goes to drain just as the drain for a dishwasher does. If water is coming out of the faucet the drain is most likely plugged or the line is kinked causing water to back up and overflow. Check the drain line for kinks and clean out the drain where it attaches to the stand pipe.
RJ