GE Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Check for continuity across temperature cut out switches. Sometimes the connector (shovel plug) is defective. Next is the printed circuit board: (1) Look for bad solder joints and (2) check the MGT relay. It is on the PCB and has 2 shovel plugs on the top."closing door, flickered when checking the door switches" = Loose connection somewhere.

There could be a few reasons why your GE dishwasher drain solenoid keeps burning up:

1. Overloading the dishwasher: Overloading the dishwasher can cause the motor to work harder, which in turn can cause the drain solenoid to burn out.
2. Improper installation: If the drain solenoid is not installed correctly or there is a wiring issue, this can cause the solenoid to burn out.
3. Clogs or blockages: If there are clogs or blockages in the dishwasher's drain line or garbage disposal, this can cause the motor to work harder and burn out the drain solenoid.
4. Electrical issues: If there are electrical issues with the dishwasher, such as a short circuit, this can cause the solenoid to burn out.

To troubleshoot the issue, you may want to start by checking the dishwasher's drain line and garbage disposal for any clogs or blockages. You can also check the dishwasher's installation and wiring to ensure everything is properly connected. If the issue persists, you may need to consult a professional appliance repair technician to diagnose and fix the problem.

Even if the oven thermal overload sensor is functioning properly, it is less likely to be the cause of the issue with the oven and top burners not working. However, it is still worth checking to ensure that the sensor is not malfunctioning or damaged. The thermal overload sensor is a safety feature that can cause the oven to shut off if it overheats, so if it is faulty or damaged, it could potentially prevent the oven from heating up or cause it to shut off prematurely. To test the thermal overload sensor, you can use a multimeter to check its resistance. The resistance should increase as the temperature of the oven rises. If the resistance remains the same or is outside the expected range, then the sensor may be faulty and should be replaced. If the sensor appears to be functioning correctly, then you should investigate other potential causes mentioned below, If the oven and top burners are not working even after replacing the main control board, there could be several other possible causes. Here are a few things to check:

1. Check the power supply: Even though the voltage at each input feed wire is 120 volts, the power supply may not be providing enough current to operate the oven and burners. Check the wiring and connections to ensure they are secure and not damaged. You may also want to check the circuit breaker or fuse box to make sure there are no issues with the electrical supply.
2. Check the heating elements: The oven and top burners are powered by heating elements. If one or more of the heating elements are faulty, this could be causing the issue. Check the elements for any signs of damage or wear, and test them with a multimeter to ensure they are functioning properly.
3. Check the wiring harness: The wiring harness connects the various components of the oven to the control board. If the wiring harness is damaged or has a loose connection, this could be preventing the oven and burners from working. Check the wiring harness to ensure it is securely connected and not damaged.
4. Check the safety valve: The safety valve on the oven regulates the flow of gas to the burners. If the safety valve is faulty, it may not be allowing gas to flow to the burners, which could be preventing them from igniting. Check the safety valve to ensure it is functioning correctly.

If you are unable to identify the issue, it may be best to call a qualified technician to diagnose and repair the oven.

The clicking sound you're hearing from the fan suggests that there may be an issue with the fan motor. It could be a faulty motor or a problem with the power supply to the motor. As for the light, it's possible that the bulb has burned out and needs to be replaced. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the power supply: Make sure that the unit is properly plugged in and that the outlet is functioning correctly.
2. Check the fan: Try manually turning the fan blades to see if they are stuck or obstructed. If they are, clear the obstruction and try again.
3. Check the fan motor: Use a multimeter to check the voltage going to the fan motor. If the voltage is not within the specified range, there may be an issue with the power supply or the motor itself.
4. Check the light bulb: If the fan motor is functioning properly but the light is not turning on, check the bulb and replace it if necessary.

If you are not comfortable performing these troubleshooting steps yourself, it may be best to contact a professional technician to diagnose and repair the issue.

I can provide you with some general instructions on how to wire a 4 burner stove. First, ensure that the stove is disconnected from any power source. Identify the four burners and their respective control knobs. Each burner should have a set of wires connected to it. Remove the control panel cover by unscrewing any screws or bolts that hold it in place. Identify the wiring connections for each burner. The wiring should be color-coded, with one wire usually being black and the other white or red. Disconnect the old wiring connections by unscrewing any screws that hold them in place. Be sure to keep track of which wires go where. Connect the new wiring to the burner by attaching the black wire to the burner's terminal labeled "L1" and the white or red wire to the burner's terminal labeled "L2." Repeat steps 5 and 6 for each burner. Replace the control panel cover and secure it with any screws or bolts. Reconnect the stove to the power source and test each burner to ensure that it is working properly. It's important to note that these are general instructions, and the specific wiring diagram for your GE 4 burner stove may vary depending on the model and year. If you're unsure about the wiring or feel uncomfortable working with electricity, it's always best to consult a professional electrician or appliance repair technician.

There isn't one. Ovens are supposed to get hot. Dryers aren't! https://www.google.com/search?q=ge+jbp78+thermal+fuse ..

The drain hose might be either punctured or is loose or the drain pump is not working or the tub to the pump hose is broken.

Jody, Please advise us of the Model Number. Without that it's really hard if not impossible to assist. We're good but not THAT good.:)

Try a motor reset. This is the electronic washer. Unplug for two minutes, plug it in then open and close lid 7 times. This will reset motor. Also make sure belt is not broken. https://www.google.com/search?q=GE+front+load+Washer+WBVH6240+BEEPS+TWICE ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Misc category.

GE Wall Oven F4 Error Code Explained

https://appliancerepairguides.com > ge-wall-oven-f4-err... Dec 23, 2021 - The Ge Wall Oven F4 Error Code is an oven temperature sensor fault. It means the temperature sensor is shorted (under 950 ohms). The temperature ...

The correct value of the brake resistor circuit for your GE washing machine may vary depending on the specific model and other factors. However, according to some sources, the typical resistance for a GE washing machine brake resistor circuit is around 25-30 Ohms. If you are measuring 47 Ohms, this could indicate that there is an issue with the circuit, which could be causing the error code and the problem with the spin cycle. You may want to check for any loose connections or damaged components in the circuit, and consider replacing the resistor if necessary. If you are not comfortable with electrical repairs, it may be best to contact a qualified technician for assistance.

How many watts do my gold star model er-533m carry

I can suggest some general steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue with the 115V outlet on your Hotpoint built-in electric stove:

1. Check the power source: Make sure the stove is properly plugged in and that the circuit breaker is on. If there's still no power, try resetting the breaker.
2. Inspect the wiring: Look for any loose or damaged wires around the outlet or control panel. If you're not comfortable working with electrical wiring, it's best to call a professional.
3. Check the outlet: Use a multimeter to check if the outlet is providing power. If it's not, it may need to be replaced.
4. Contact the manufacturer: If none of the above steps solve the problem, you can contact Hotpoint for assistance or to request a wiring diagram.

Remember, working with electricity can be dangerous, so it's important to take appropriate safety precautions and seek professional help if needed.

It needs a new Humidistat Moisture Sensor. That is the part that senses how much moisture is in the garments and decides when to go to cool down cycle. That part is not used in Timed Dry.

The light is part of the diagnostic system. This is an internal systems light that flashes all the time and is an indication that everything is operating normally.

This says it uses the House fuse or Breaker. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/59544/Ge-Monogram-Zv1050.html?page=8 Installation service manual refers to house fuse https://service.geappliances.ca/medias/ZV1050SFSS-install-guide-new.pdf?context=bWFzdGVyfGltYWdlc3wzMTI5NjR8YXBwbGljYXRpb24vcGRmfGhhMC9oZjcvOTMzNjIwMDAzNjM4Mi9aVjEwNTBTRlNTLWluc3RhbGwtZ3VpZGUtbmV3LnBkZnw4YWU3YmNjMzFhMTkyMzY1MGJjYjk3MjFkNDYzZWM2MWM1YmE1OTg0ZGU1NzFiZDBkNWI2MGI2NGE1Mzc5YTIx ..

You may be able to find a replacement glass for your GE Dual Wave II microwave system by contacting GE's customer service or parts department. They may have compatible replacement parts available, or be able to direct you to a third-party supplier that carries them. You can also try searching for the part online using the model number of your microwave. However, keep in mind that older models may have limited availability of replacement parts, so you may need to consider alternative solutions such as having the glass custom-cut or purchasing a new microwave.

It's possible that the main power source to the console has been disrupted, while the interior lights are on due to a separate power source. You may want to check the circuit breaker or fuse box to see if the circuit supplying power to the console has tripped or blown a fuse. It's also possible that there is an issue with the wiring or connection to the console, in which case it may be necessary to consult an electrician.

It is a discontinued unit, so unlikely to get a plastic washer. Put a sheet of paper on top of the unit and poke holes where the mounting screw holes are. That is your template. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/378080/Ge-75350.html?page=5#manual https://www.google.com/search?q=GE+spacemaker+stereo+cd+player+with+am%2Ffm+radio%2C+mounting+template Not much in the way of parts https://www.google.com/search?q=GE+spacemaker+stereo+parts ..

It is not uncommon for a Holter monitor to have a status indicator light that indicates the current status of the device. The color of the light and its meaning can vary depending on the specific model of the Holter monitor. In general, an orange light on a Holter monitor may indicate that the device is in a standby or charging mode, or that it is preparing to record data. It is important to refer to the user manual for your specific Holter monitor to determine the exact meaning of the orange light and any other status indicator lights that may be present on the device. The manual should also provide instructions on how to properly operate and care for the Holter monitor. If you are unsure about the meaning of the orange light or how to use the device, you should contact the manufacturer or a healthcare professional for assistance.