GE Freezers - Page 2 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

35 degrees Fahrenheit equivalent to 1.6 degrees Celsius / Centigrade

35 degrees F or 1.6 degrees C

Put the old board back in. See what it does, from your post, sounds like it was working correctly.

The unit needs two fans running and good airflow, one fan outside cools the condensor coil and the other inside the unit blowing across the evaporator. The compressor must start up. The defrost timer stops everything and switches on a heating element to defrost the evaporator for several minutes. Please verify these conditions.

Look in the owners manual for trouble codes

Hold the lock and precise fill buttons for several seconds and a prompt will appear to disable it.

Hello; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician. There are several things to check: 1.) Door Gasket -Take a piece of paper. With the freezer door closed run the paper around the gasket. If you can do that, then you are not getting a good seal. Repair: Clean the freezer door gasket with soap and water. While still wet, take a hair dryer and a spatula, going around the gasket, heat the gasket while pulling the gasket out to expand it. Note: This only solves the problem if there is frost in the front area of your freezer. 2.) Freezer fan not working - In some cases, The freezer fan helps to prevent warm air from getting into the freezer. 3.) Food Storage - Make sure you do not overload the freezer, and that the food product is inside the bounds of the racks. 4.) Fresh Food Section Air Vent Wide Open - This is your probable cause: Heat goes to Cold like a magnet. When you open your fresh food section door and then close it you are forcing warm air up the vent that goes to the freezer. You probably have a broken air vent assembly.

Sounds like the damper controller is stuck due to obstruction or isn't working at all and needs replaced.

Try small cable ties if they sit on pegs sticking out you can then cut the ties for removal.

Ok, basic refrigeration here. The 'high side' contains the high pressure vapor leaving the compressor and going to the condensor to condense into a high pressure liquid. The 'low side' contains low pressure refrigerant vapor within the evaporator and the suction line back to the compressor. The same amount of vapor has to return to the compressor as left the compressor. So thinking about pressure solves the problem....High pressure equals small line... Low pressure equals larger line. The low pressure vapor will fill a larger space than high pressure vapor so it has to travel in a larger line. The suction side is the bigger of the two and if the unit is functioning, it will be the one cooler to the touch. Though this is basically correct in theory, it is not a totally perfect way to descsribe an answer to your question, but it was fun to try.

Red light usually means the interior temperature is too warm.

It's on the starter . The battery cable connects to it.

The thermostat circuit is responsible for sending power to the compressor for normal operation. Make sure that the thermostat is working and not stuck on open position.

On a chest freezer, frost always accumulates around the top perimeter first because the warmer moist air comes in contact with that area first once the door is opened. More frequent defrosting may be the answer.

You have the typical symptoms of either a bad defrost timing circuit or a defective defrost heating element.

A bad thermostat stuck in the closed position could cause it to run continuously. A bad door gasket could cause it to do the same. But it would have to be really bad. The door not fully going closed could be leaking warm air into the cavity causing the issue.

Yes, but you have to understand that if it needs recharged, it has a leak and must be found, repaired, evacuated then properly recharged. Most compact reefers only hold a few ounces of refrigerant, so it does not take much of a leak to affect its ability to cool....Your issue could be something other than refrigerant if its just not cooling.

After the defrost mode, the water from the melted frost or ice should go down the drain at the bottom back of the freezer compartment. That drain is probably plugged with some gooey gunk. If its an upright freezer, there will be a hose clamped to the back that comes out of a plastic fitting.. detach it there and 'fish' into the plastic fitting with a short piece of wire then blow into it to dislodge whatever may be there. Blow downward on the hose as it too could (probably not) be plugged between there and the drain pan under the bottom of the refrigerator. Severe cases require that the freezer back be removed and the drain thoroughly cleaned. That gets real tricky, but its doable. Ice makers in the way complicate the process too.

If the compressor is running yet the suction (larger pipe) on the compressor is not cold, or if it is frozen, you probably have a refrigerant leak and need refrigerant.

There are only three wires, aren't there? One is a safety earth, probably green or green and yellow. It goes on the spade attached to the metal of the thermostat body. The other two are a live and switched live. They go on the two spades that come out the plastic body. If there happens to be a third, it will be an alarm signal wire. Connect in any order you like. If the compressor comes on and the signal light, all is well. If the signal light does not come on, and the compressor switches off at -12c swap 2 of them. If none of this happens, switch 2 of them.