Fuji Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

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I have several cameras and had left my 1730 in an old house for a year. It had been in a bag with the lens cap on and no batteries, but the house left without heating over winter. When I put fully chaged batteries in it, I got a little motor noise but no lens movement. I thought this was the end of it but did #6 above, switching it on while banging the right (grip) side of the camera against my palm. After many times I saw that the lens was starting to move out and after about 10 more times it came out and started to operate. It then failed when I went to macro but it got better as I used it. Now it seems to be back to normal.

Change battery .. and use external chargers

I have the driver disk if you need it.

sounds like it may be a couple things, this this is a five year old post, this is for other users. In your case the wheel may not be seated in the dropouts correctly, loosen the quick release or axle nuts and pull the wheel as far back in the drop outs as it will go and retighten. If it is still rubbing then the drop outs them selves are out of alignment. Most competent LBS's (local bike shop's) have a set of drop out H tools that are used to check front and rear drop out alignment and can be used for minor adjustment of the drop outs. In a more extreme case the frame could be out of alignment or one of the drop outs could have been welded incorrectly and the frame sneaked past the manufacturers quality control processes. When rebuilding your hubs make sure there is an equal amount of axle protruding from each side of the hub to insure that it is centered properly. Some hubs use 8, 9, or 10 bearings, as long as they all fit in the hub race without binding or overlapping (so to speak) you are ok and they are easy to loose. I use a telescoping magnet to extract them from the hub when I rebuild. Most LBS's will sell you new bearings, just take the old ones in and they will have a tool to measure the diameter to provide you with the right size. One more thing; there are standard drop out spacing sizes, measured on the inside faces of the drop outs, and depending on how many speeds your rear wheel has. 6-7 speeds is 120mm on older bikes from the 80's and before. Most bikes today have 135-145mm spacing to accommodate the larger gear clusters of 8,9,10,11 speeds.

the tire size is molded into the side wall of the tire. It will look something like: 26 x 2.125 or 700 x 35c If the bike does not get a lot of use, you will notice after a few weeks that the tires are soft, this is because butyl rubber tire seep air, just like you car tires do over time. You may have picked up thorn or multiple thorns or glass and this could be imbedded in the tire. The tubes manufacturers spec on new bikes are notoriously thin and very prone to flats. Try replacing your tubes with Thorn Resistant tubes or tubes that have tire sealant in them like Slime Tubes (brand name). Remember to rub your fingers on the inside of the tire before installing a new tube to make sure you have removed the offending thorn, or else you are going to have another flat, sure as shootin'.

you can't raise the handlebar if you have the A-headset type of stem. If there is one or two bolts on the stem that clamp it to the steering column on your fork, then you have this style. To get the handlebars higher you will need to purchase a stem that has a steeper angle to it or is shorter or both and this will provide a more upright position. You LBS (local bike shop) can help with getting you fitted with the correct size for you and your bike.

most multi-speed bikes these days use Cassette rear hubs. The cassette is held in place on the hub via a lock ring that has some small teeth on the inside. Since there are many different brands on the market, you have to have the right cassette lock ring tool for your cassette. They cost about $10-15 each. You will also need a tool called a chain whip ($15-20) to hold the cassette in place, to prevent it from "free-wheeling" while you engage the lock ring tool to unscrew the lock ring. Once the lock ring is removed, the cassette will slide right off of the free hub body. Note that the free hub body has splines on it and the cassette can only be installed when all the inner teeth on the cassette gears line up with the splines on the free hub body. The first couple of cogs are usually loose, take care to note the order in which they are removed and their respective spaces so that they can be reinstalled in the proper order or else you bike won't shift correctly. Your LBS (local bike shop) will have all of these tools and most charge $5-15 in labor to remove and reinstall a cassette, some will do it for free if you buy the parts from them.

bicycle serial numbers are not like automobile VIN's, they are pretty much useless to the general public and only mean something to the factory and only tell us when the frame was made but nothing about any of the components and other parts. It is better to describe the year, make and model, tire size and type and type of drive train components to give us a better sense of what you have and any competent bike shop can give you a good estimate of what it is worth.

the derailleur cable needs to be adjusted, I'm betting it is too loose. Cables stretch out over time and with this extra slack in the cable you don't get crisp shifts. This is why it is recommended to have your bike tuned up at least once a year (or more depending on how much you ride), this will insure that bike operates properly at all times.

This video covers troubleshooting steps for that particular problem.

IF no one helps you, type "Fuji Camera F850" into the search engine of your computer, and a dealer or the factory should become available to you to ask questions. God bless your efforts.