Your refrigerator's defrost system may be the cause of the frost buildup on the inside back panel and the higher temperatures in the refrigerator compartment.
To resolve the issue, you can take the following actions:
Check the thermostat for defrosting: Once the coils have reached a certain temperature, it is the job of the defrost thermostat to turn off the heater. It may not be turning off the heater, resulting in excessive frost buildup, if the thermostat is defective.
Using a multimeter, you can check the thermostat for continuity.
Check the heater that defrosts: During the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts the accumulated frost on the coils. It's possible that the heater won't be able to melt the frost, resulting in its accumulation. Using a multimeter, you can check the heater for continuity.
Check the defrost control board and timer: The defrost cycle is started on a regular basis by the defrost timer or control board. It's possible that the defrost cycle is not being initiated, resulting in frost buildup, if the timer or control board is defective. Using a multimeter, you can check for continuity on the control board or timer.
And if the above is not helpful, do try the ones below;
Check the thermostat for defrosting: On the evaporator coils in the freezer compartment, you'll find the defrost thermostat. Once the coils have reached a certain temperature, it shuts off the defrost heater. Use a multimeter and disconnect the wires to test the thermostat at room temperature for continuity. The thermostat is faulty and must be replaced if there is no continuity , you can replace with https://amzn.to/3lvYEAy.
Check the heater that defrosts: In the freezer compartment, the defrost heater can be found on the evaporator coils. During the defrost cycle, it melts the accumulation of frost on the coils. Use a multimeter to verify continuity while disconnecting the heater's wires for testing. The heater is defective and needs to be replaced if there is no continuity with a new one that can be found on https://amzn.to/3lui4pr.
Check the defrost control board and timer: Behind the toe kick panel or inside the control panel at the top of the refrigerator is where you'll find the defrost timer or control board. It is in charge of periodically starting the defrost cycle. Using a multimeter at room temperature, check for continuity when testing the timer or control board. The timer or control board is broken and needs to be replaced with a new control board and timer via https://amzn.to/3I0j2Bn.
Examine the door seal: Warm air from the outside can enter the refrigerator and cause frost buildup on the coils if the door gasket is damaged or not sealing properly. Check the gasket for any signs of wear or damage, and if necessary, replace it.
Hi,
please make sure that the freezer is properly closed when you're not using it. You can also lower the freezer temperature slightly. If you have a water-based spray bottle, you might spray some salt water in the back of the freezer to help breakdown any current ice buildup.
Thank you.
Check the door gasket for tightness. It should be able to hold a 1" strip of paper with the door closed on it. Test every 6" or so.
'Frost Free' sometimes means it has a defrost cycle depending on the type of freezer.
Don't freeze any home made items unless that are not sealed and cold.
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Hi it seems your problem is condensor motor that is placed between compressor and condensor it normally do that and after sometime it will stop and experience a bigger problem where your fridge won't cool. Hope that I manage to help you Thanks. Salthiel
Warm moist air condensing. It should stop. There may have been ice that is now melting in the insulation. Just keep drying the outside. Leave the inside until tomorrow and chip off the frost with a plastic scraper.
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It would help to have refrigerant type.
The pressures will vary according to load, as when it is first started up. The best way is to weigh the amount of refrigerant charged. By charging by feel, can read the compressor current draw, it is safe to not exceed 1/6th of the compressor LRA. Can charge slowly by filling the evaporator to feel cold refrigerant from entrance to exit.
Condensor may fill with the bottom 1/3 cooler than the hot/warm top. Overfilling will overload the compressor, frost appears on the suction line, first portion of the evaporator may not cool off and actually be warmed.
Does you ice dispenser serve ice through the door? If yes, then It's likely that room air is entering your freezer through the ice exit, and condensing as ice on your ice maker.
It's a very common problem; The flap isn't sealing tightly after ice is delivered through the chute. Clean you ice maker, removing all the ice, and then stuff the exit chute with plastic grocery bags. The bags will force the flap tight against the chute, and add a layer of insulation from room air. Keep an eye on ice development, for a few days, and if you're confident you've found the problem, order a replacement ice door.
If it is full of food & you can't see the back this happened to us; see if the plastic striping that runs down the back corners got shoved down out of proper placement. It's suppose to seal like weather striping or caulk. It will cause the problems you're describing. Around the door too bottom as well. The inside of ours got smudged down & had no clue til I had to start removing the contents.
You can defrost the whole thing by unplugging and let ice melt. Many store the items in the cold outside if you have right climate. Otherwise I have chipped away chuncks of ice with a hammer and be very carefully to no this gently cause you do not want to pierce the wall of freezer. After as much ice as possible has been removed, see if it seals properly when the lid is closed. If you want to melt ice without unplugging a hair blower will help melt ice. Put a few bath towels in on top of items then you do not have to go fishing to get any pieces that fall off.
