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I'm assuming when the alarm sounds your using the fob to turn it off if not your in theft mode and it will not start if you don't have a remote you can buy one and program it into the system go to ford owners.Com register for free then download your owners manual go to roadside emergencies and your fuse box diagrams and fuse values are there also you have to go to security locks and the remote control programming procedures are there

Ford Cars &... | Answered on Feb 11, 2019


Remove the plastic steering column shroud under the ignition cylinder housing on the column you will see a metal button sticking out you push it in after turning the key if no key drill out the button then the cylinder will turn if this is a pats key the new keys must be programmed into the system unless you have the chip and are using a regular cylinder just hold the chip next to the receiver and the blinking light will stop then start the car

2010 Ford Escape | Answered on Feb 11, 2019


Is it a stick or automatic //// the shift lever won't move?check brake light fuse

2011 Ford Ranger | Answered on Feb 11, 2019


The neutral safety switch is where the gear selector is on the left side of the transmission go to rockauto.Com and look up your vehicle and the parts to see it

Ford Cars &... | Answered on Feb 11, 2019


Out of gap spark plugs or leaking plug boots positive spark is getting to ground stopping all plugs from firing properly or to large a gap in plugs I'm assuming that you mean the engine e is cranking but not turning over fast and persistent cranking finally starts it

1994 Ford... | Answered on Feb 11, 2019


1-4-2-5-3-6

Ford Cars &... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019


SHOULD BE NEXT TO DRIVERS DOOR

2011 Ford Focus | Answered on Feb 10, 2019


Air bag light also lit on the instrument cluster ? The clock spring is probably bad . The clock spring is a component inside the top of the steering column ,under the steering wheel . Used to keep electrical buttons on the steering wheel connected to the rest of the vehicle electrical systems . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1HVeZ2OFwc&t=289s

Ford Cars &... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019


The P1000 is NOT a fault code. It is an advisory code that indicates that the PCM was recently reset and the OBDII self-tests have not yet completed.

Ford F-150 Cars... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019


maybe about 30 to 45 dont push your luck. running a tank low is bad for the fuel pump

Ford Explorer... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019


I am sending you a link from where you will get all you want good luck https://toolsnyou.com

2006 Ford... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019


Here's my Best guess;
!Drum roll, please!

Passenger side 1965 Ford Galaxy?!!

Ford Cars &... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019


See if you can locate the emission decal located anywhere under the hood if you can see even a little part of it you may be able to match it up with one on line. I hope this helps, take care.

Ford F-150 Cars... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019


This sounds like a contact issue with your fuses so I want you to go to ford owners.Com register then download your owners manual go to roadside emergencies and your fuse box diagrams and values are there also you can keep it on your phone / computer and also print it out when needed that being said next//////I want you to first clean all the power related cables (a) battery terminals (b)cable to ground on the engine (c) the power distribution box cable from the battery and the alternator and make sure all of these are clean and shiny free of corrosion and tight ///now we are doing this first because we needed to rule out an intermittent power loss that maybe wouldn't affect the engine running condition but cause the flicker from a loose cable that still is making contact but moving around /////now we will go to the fuses go to your manual and look for the fuses that are conceded to the issues you are having and check those for cleaning tightness of the fuse in the fuse box inside and the power distribution box under the hood because other circuits there maybe bleeding off one of them and that will affect the electrical path next///// after this is done and the problems persist we will now go to the bulkhead connectors that bring the electrical voltage and grounds into the passenger compartment these will be big connectors on the firewall by the master cylinder there are also connectors inside the rear part of the fender again at the firewall all must be clean and tight and if your truck was recently serviced within 1-2 months or so and there was electrical issues this could be that the connectors weren't pushed in all the way until they clicked into the locked position now after these are done on the outside part they can be ruled out I'm going through the process of eliminating everything coming in from outside fuse box and inside and battery connections if still persistent next//// there are connectors in the kicker panels by your feet on both sides check them for the same things described earlier next /////if all well but still happening you need to position a large enough mirror on the drivers seat so you can see the dashboard lights and now start wiggling the wires to see if you can find the loose connector or wire harness that's causing the problem the clicking noise is intermittent loss of power and then the regaining of it I'm assuming that you have a 4.6 windsor/romeo engine there's a lighting control module for this vehicle the location could be above your right leg under the dash or to the right side under the heater controls also check those connectors for looseness and watch the lights during the wiggle test this is very difficult to find even if you are using a meter that's why I'm asking you to do all of this and it sounds like a loose connector or wire in one but could also be a broken solder joint on a component related to the symptoms because the trucks now 14-15 years old from production and things being unplugged or accidentally kicked or banged into or arms being forced through were a connector/component is can put stress on the inside connector of a module and cause a solder joint to let go and now there's an air gap in the solder joint causing the arching/flicker of electricity to become a problem because the arching is creating a high temperature at that spot and will be seen as a blackened mark around the solder lug/pin on the circuit board that's all I can possibly tell you if you have a continuity tester this will help somewhat in the wiggle test post back with progress and we'll keep going till we get there I have to go back to replacing a wiring harness on a crown victoria that was in an accident you have the same configuration the harness goes along the inner fenders from the battery/power distribution box to the inside passengers compartment I am trying hard for you to explain the process for you and so you know where this is coming from I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc.with 50+ years experience in all phases of the automobile mechanics and we will get you to the end of this it takes time and obviously I'm not there to see what's happening with the truck myself so it's up to you please right down everything you do so we can keep track of the checks done for the process of eliminating other possible causes go slow and good luck stephen

2005 Ford... | Answered on Feb 10, 2019

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