Flotec Plumbing - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
How to clean a sink flotec pump
It sounds like the float is stuck. Try pulling the wires coming out of the tank(shake them a little) and see if that will free the float and shut the pump off
Kurt
Flotec 42 gallon water tank - short cycling and
These holding tanks are pre charged with air which in turn pressurizes the water. The tank has a bladder and an air valve on top. The pre charge ,over time, loses pressure, and the tank has to be pressurized again.
- The well pump needs to be turned off.
- The water has to be drained from the tank
- Air is put into the tank from the air valve on top of the tank, and is measured with a tire air gauge.
- The pre charge pressure is set to two psi below the pump cut in pressure.
- In other words if your pump kicks on at 30 psi, the pre charge pressure is set at 28 psi. If the pump kicks in at 20 psi, the pre charge is set at 18psi, etc.
- After you pressurize the tank, turn water back on.
- If water comes out of air valve on top of tank, then the bladder is ruptured and you need a new tank.
- Hope this helps!
1hp pump. Why does it start and run 5 seconds then shut off?
Does this unit have a pressure switch? A lot of pressure switches have an adjustable cut-in / cut-out allowing you to change the nominal operating pressure. If it is only running a short time, you could adjust the pressure switch and see if it helps. **With the power off** make small adjustments, don't crank it.
Flotec Model FP4022-10 has a
You need to purchase a new pump. Attempting to repair this will only cost you time, money, frustration and a new pump in the end.
RJ
Can I reduce to use a 1" water line on a Flotec pump with a 1-1/4" port?
How to Set the Pressure Regulator on a Deep Well Jet Pump
- Install a pressure gauge between the pump and the control valve if one is not already installed. ...
- Run the pump until the pressure has stabilized. ...
- Adjust the discharge control valve to provide 20-psi back pressure. ...
- Open a faucet to let water run near the pump. ...
- Open the pump control valve slowly.
https://www.hunker.com/12583591/how-to-set-the-pressure-regulator-on-a-deep-well-jet-pump
Leaking well pressure tank
This is for tanks that have a bladder inside which holds the water only. The air in the tank is above the bladder and applies pressure to the bladder using the wall of the medal tank as the envelope for the air. Most come pre-charged from the factory. Air and water NEVER mix in there. The valve stem is the entry point for the air is is NOT ATTACHED TO THE BLADDER.
I had an air leak somewhere in my tank system. Worst case the bladder was ruptured but I had to check. I had the pump recycle every 3 seconds. I must not have had any pressure in the tank. Checked it and I was right. Re- pressured it at the valve stem on top according to manuals instructions and then waited for a day to see if it held pressure 24 hours. It did not hold, so I got some liquid dish soap and spread some around the valve and it bubbled a lot.
NOTE: It could leak from the stem itself which is replaceable ( the un-screw-able cap covering the metal stem inside the rubber tube/stem.) You'll need a tire stem removal tool from Walmart for 50 cents. Usually in a packet with both the tool and a new stem. Looks like a cap with a forked prong on the back side.
Mine leaked around the base of the stem where it enters the tank.
I went on line to see if there is a remedy and most say no and replace entire tank. These things are hundreds of dollars...all for a $2 valve. So I let all the pressure out of the tank by uncapping the stem tower and released the pressure by pushing down inside on the plunger pin until all pressure is gone...or else the stem will shoot out like a bullet. Then I spread plenty of dish liquid around the hole entry area and gently tilted the stem all around in a circle. Kinda wiggling it in place to loosen up the rust grip. (Don't worry it won't come out. You would have to cut it to get it out. I suppose you probably could crack it if you rotate too extremely.) Use you own judgement here. All you are doing is getting the lube (soap) in the groove around the ring so you can get the rust grip loosened up so you can spin/turn the valve in place to loosen up the rust and gunk keeping it from sealing properly. I took a pair of vice grips and grabbed hold of the area just above the bulge where it comes out of the tank and turned it in place 2-3 rounds. Just enough vice grip to hold tight during the spin and not crush the tower. After the lube works in, it should seem easier to turn. Remember this is after you are ready to replace the tank and last ditch effort.
Re-pressure the tank and check for leaks. You don't have to put water back in to test the air pressure. Remember it should be there even without water as from the factory. Air it up and apply soap to test. Mine has been OK for months now.
A new bladder is almost as expensive as a new tank so that was a no go. I have located a replacement valve (see below). If you have been around car tubeless tires, this is the same thing on these tanks. They are inserted with a tool and are held in with rubber expanded in the hole rim after insertion. To get these out you have to cut them...that's how much the tool squeezes the rubber and seals the rim. They also can only go in from the under side...that's why these are so hard to do.
Anyway, if you want to try even more last effort, you can take the tank out in the yard, and flip it upside down and remove the bladder. Several nuts hold the ring in place which clamps the bladder opening to the water entry point. Take the bladder out and look inside the tank. At the top end is where the valve is. Flip it over and cut the stem out of the hole. Then go to an auto parts store and get a replacement valve which can be inserted from the inside and tightened with a nut on top. Replace the bladder and air it up properly VERY IMPORTANT.
I have found this one on Amazon which is a push it through the inside of the hole and do all the tightening from the top side. $8 for 4.
VTR TR-416 1 1/2" Outer Mount Metal Valve Stem (4 Pack)
My flotec sump pump began
It sounds like your float is hanging up. Yes, it does sound like your pit is too small. If it is smaller than 18" in diameter, it is too small. A small pit is bad for the pump too because if it is raining hard, your pit will fill very quickly. Now when the pump runs, it will empty very quickly. On-off-on-off-on-off is very bad for the pump.This is what is known as short-cycling, and it will burn up your pump in no time because of the constant on/off cycles.
Not enough flow and pressure to run sprinkler system
pressure in centrifugal pumps depends on the number of impellers in the pump housing, the clearance of the impellers to the housing and the power of the motor to drive the impeller/s
volume flow is also important as a pump without a high output will not produce pressure
check the jet size at the foot valve that is used to help lift water to the pump
It is a jet pump and will have a smaller line back to the foot valve for that purpose
next wil jet pumps if there is too much flow to the outlet , the pressure required to help lift the water to the pump is reduced and the volume is also reduced
you indicate 4 sprinkler heads per zone but how many zones are operating at one time
check the expected delivered volume for the new pump against delivered volume of the old pump as a starter to find the reason for the poor performance of the new pump
check also the rpms of each pump as that also has a bearing on volume produced
Pump body and bracket position bolt mount repair.
lol too much power for the pressure tank back off the flow or get a new pressure valve 50 psi is good pressure how big is the tank what is the gauge rated for all these \details need to be spoken in order to answer sounds like you want some water lol its sucking air too tank doesn't need air it has to be primed first tighten the bolt and now you have to use pipe sealant white putty to seal those nuts and bolts back up pump cant suck air
How do I prime my flotec 4022 pump
A number of Flotec pump manuals are available here:
http://www.flotecpump.com/ResidentialResourcePage_resourcepage_ownersmanuals.aspx . The site lists a FP4022-10 pump with the direct link to the manual here:
http://www.flotecpump.com/resources/images/514.pdf .
For this type of pump, there should be a priming plug or priming tee. Remove the plug (or tee) and pour water into the pump. Keep adding water until the pump and all of the piping to the well is full of water. If a priming plug or tee was also added on the suction side of the pump, open that section and fill all of the piping on the suction side with water. Replace the plugs/tees then open a faucet in the house. Start the pump. After 2-3 minutes, turn off the pump if no water has come through the unit. Add more water through the priming plug or tee (or multiple plugs and tees). Then repeat closing the priming ports and start the pump after opening a faucet. Once the pump is actually pumping water, turn off the open faucet. Wait for the pump to shut off once it reaches full pressure. Open one or two faucets to check that the pump is properly sensing the pressure changes and maintaining system water pressure.
If the unit didn't pull water from the well, check the piping for air leaks. See the full trouble-shooting guide in the manual. Page 9 has the priming information and page 10 has the trouble-shooting guide.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
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