Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Check if there is power getting to it and there is water supply. If there is both, replace the solenoid valve.

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE: If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle. This is because when you selected your water temperature, you may have selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing. The item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test. Another test u can do to check the water inlet valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed. . If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. TIMER If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing. Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Here is how I fixed mine using the knowledge of years of fixing things.
I grabbed the machine from the top with both hands and shook it off the floor very hard with a good thump X 2
I went to university for longtime to know this is how to fix it;
The circuit boards and sensors are not bad. It just after years of bumpy spin cycles there is a loose connection. This will shake the troublesome connection into a new position where it makes better contact.
It's temporary.
One day you'll have to open it and check all the connections are tight and clean.

Your water valves are 24volt, should read 60 to 64 Ohms on a multimeter.Your error code 49 is Cold valve faulty in your machine.1 amp fuse and 1 of the Mosfets on the board are blown.You need to get a Technician to replace the parts.

It sounds like your control board is having trouble detecting that the proper water level is being achieved in the washer. Find the clear plastic hose that comes from the motor control module to the tub. Make sure there is no dirt or foreign material blocking the hose where it attaches to the tub. If that doesn't help you might have to replace the control board. What is your model number?

its the pump, replace it as soon as you can.

This can happen so easily, my cat knocked a button, and the lock message came on and it seemed could not use washing machine. Easy fix though, look at bottom of program buttons, find the lock buttons (numbered 3 and 4 instruction manual)which have lock symbol (numbered 9)bracketed down the bottom, hold these two buttons(3 & 4) together for a few seconds. You will hear a beep, then see unlock appear in the door lock section. Fixed and ready to again wash.

That means the drain pump is taking too much current and it could be caused because it is jammed with food debris or is worn out.

unplug for 5 minutes https://www.manualslib.com/manual/697170/Fisher-And-Paykel-Smartdrive.html?page=28&term=Motor+Control+Module+Reset+Error&selected=1#manual ..

Check the wall power outlet to be certain it has correct voltage (need a meter) then, assuming there is power to the washing machine, check that power is going to the control module - you can follow the wires from the power cord over the where they connect to the module. If proper power is supplied to the module there is almost certainly either a bad module (replace) or perhaps the fuse on the module has blown. We have replaced the fuses (most are 6.3 amperes) but they are a special type and hard to find; also they are soldered onto the module board.

Hi just read your posting.Error 136 means you have''Motor Stall " fault. Now just a couple of questions, has your machine been noisy on spin?does the machine leak water?Please reply with answers and I can help you rectify this fault.

This is tricky because it may be the motor control board or the motor. I have seen some of those boards and the soldering is terrible, Could be a bad solder joint, most appliances now days are not component level serviced. The whole board is just swapped out.

Hi just read your posting.Now Error code 136 means you have a motor stall fault.This means the motor controller cannot start the motor turning.Has your machine been noisy on spin?The things that cause this fault are,seized or faulty bearings, wiring to the motor faulty,faulty motor,faulty rotor position sensor, or faulty motor controller.Do you have or can borrow an electrical test meter ?If the answer is yes I can guide you throe the testing of the components to track this fault done.Please reply with additional information about the spin cycle and if you can get a meter and I will help you further.

For the F&P machine.
Check the circuit board fuse. I had my machine do exactly the same thing. Just wouldn't power up at all, no lights, nothing.
The fuse is on the circuit board a small round red unit, with T1.6A250V written on the top.
Remove the 2 screws securing the control panel. Inside there is a grey plastic box. This houses your circuit board. You will need to have a multi meter and a soldering iron to replace this component.

Check the pipes actually work first. Is there a hidden drain filter that is partially blocked? Dissasemble the pump and check it works and the blades inside are clean.

I had the same problem.... It would stop on the rinse cycle and beep.  Check to make sure you can hear the water pump running or if you can just hear an electrical hum and then it quits, it may be a problem with the water pump.The water pump can be accessed by removing the tub, reach down the center of the agitator and remove plastic bolt, remove the stailess steel tub and then remove the plastic oval shaped cover at the bottom of the main tub to access the pump impellor.  Make sure the impellor turns freely, if it does not you may have a problem with the pump motor.  We had a gold chain go missing and it showed up wrapped around the pump shaft causing it to bind at times.  It took me two tries to fix it but now it runs 100%.

It would help if you gave the model number. If it is a normal washsmart top load washing machine it should be simple as selecting the cold setting on panel. It only has cold warm or hot as the 3 selections. If selecting cold does not just put cold water in and you are sure that the hoses are on the correct way, then there must be a fault with the machine. In that case phone the shop you bought it from and get it fixed under warranty. Make absolutely sure the hoses are correct first or you will get charged for the repair.

Check on voltage to the drain pump and if present during the rinse and after wash cycle but failing to drain out, then the drain pump is faulty.
Remove the drain pump and check coils , if open then replace pump.
Other wise clean the pump and reset.

You need to be more detailed in the description. What is the fault code & is it the same code as before the pump was changed? Why did you change the pump? Was the old pump tested & proven to be faulty or did you just change it in the hope that it would fix the fault? I have changed many F&P smartdrive pumps & never seen or heard of any having a fuse. The only fuse is on the main control board, soldered in. If that had blown the machine would not power up, so fuse must be okay. Start from scratch & say what the error code is.

HiTo solve the beeping and lid lock light flashing and the machine not doing a spin dry. Do the following.I have a SIMPSON EZI SENSOR 8Kg top loader. This is what I did.WARNING HIGH VOLTAGE. switch the power off and unplug the machine.DO NOT do this if you are not familiar with working with high voltages.To get access to the lid lock switch,1. Remove 2 screws at the rear of the washer.2. Remove 2 screws at the front of the machine located under the lid and covered by small round plastic plugs.The top cover can now be raised gently from the front.3. Remove the 2 screws that hold the lid switch.4. Remove the clear plastic cover from the lid switch.5. DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE ( Verify that power is off)6. Find 2 blue wires these go to a magnetic reed switch (25mm long 3mm Diameter).Cut the blue wires and discard the reed switch. insulate the ends of the blue wires and push them back into the track in different directions so there is no possibility that they can make contact with each other.7. Find 2 white wires these go to a set of contacts that are mechanically closed by the solenoid.8. Pull out the contacts and the 2 white wires.9. Cut the white wires at the contacts, strip 5mm of plastic off the wires and twist them together, The wires will have corrosion, clean them with sand paper, they must make good contact. I recommend that you solder them together.10. Insulate them and push them back into the track.11.Reassemble starting with fitting the clear plastic cover. Your good to go BUT BUT BUT,WARNING The Lid safety protecting during the spin dry cycle will no longer function,So don't do this if you need the safety of the lid closed during the spin cycle. Remove 2 screws at the back of the machine