FireLite Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

The first thing that comes to mind is the Firelite has become full and can not accept any more backup data.
Delete the data on the Firelite and try running your backup again. If it works then that was the problem.
The backup software should have a configuration setting somewhere that allows it to automatically delete older data and keep it from filling up.

Run diagnostics on the drive it may be failing. If it's ok you can try to reformat it from Windows Disk Management.Or if you need to recover data for remote data recovery and do-it-yourself data recovery see http://FreeDataRecovery.us

Your panel requires 4.7K ohm resistors for both initiating and notification circuits. These are common can be found at Radio Shack or a similar store. Resistors of other values can be used and may "fool" the panel, but also may result in undesirable operation.

Why doesn't the USB cable work?

Your smoke detectors, heat sensors or fire pull stations (depends on what is installed in your system) are located on your 4 zones. The wiring that connects these sensors to your fire control panel is supervised by an end-of-line resistor. Starting at the panel all wiring on that zone is daisy chained between each detector with the resistor being placed at the last detector. The panel looks for this resistance value at all times. If one of your detectors goes into alarm this creates a short. This is how the system recognizes an alarm state. Conversely, if there is break in the wiring the system fails to see any resistance and the panel will indicate a problem or trouble condition. The most likely cause of your 2 problems is either broken or cut wiring, ie; the system no longer sees the end-of-line resistance. If you are handy and have access to a multimeter you can measure resistance along the zone loop by disconnecting the zone wires from the panel and measuring wire resistance from each detector to the last one. Most Firelite systems use a 4.7k ohm resistor so you should see this at the zone wiring from the panel. If you don't, try removing a detector somewhere in the middle of the circuit and try again. Once you find a detector with that resistance your problem lies between that detector and the panel. It is just a matter of isolating the problem by measuring the zone resistance along different points of the zone wiring. If you are not comfortable doing this by yourself then I would suggest getting either an electrician or fire alarm tech to track down the problem. Hope this helps.

in programming did u enable remote download

No A/C to panel. Check transformer

You could try data rewriting software to erase your data, like AOMEI Partition Assistant Erase hard drive feature: http://www.extend-partition.com/help/wipe-data.html first you need to connect this disk on your computer and then download the free version of Partition Assistant to use.

restart computer and let me know if the drive shows up might want to plug drive into another port too

The only alternative method of connecting the external USB hard drive to your laptop would be to remove the physical disk drive from the casing it is in, then depending on the type of drive, connect it directly to a desktop / tower type computer using an IDE or SATA cable.You can also buy adapters which will allow standard 3.5 inch or laptop 2.5 inch disk drives to be attached via USB or Firewire - these are most commonly found for SATA drives these days but you may be able to find the older IDE (PATA) versions if needed.

You can to remove the hard drive from the housing and install it as a second drive in a desktop computer. If the drive is a 2.5" unit, you will need to get an adapter to convert it to the 3.5" form factor (the two sizes have different connectors, even if they have the same interface standard. If you have 40 or more pins on the drive, it's a PATA (IDE) type. If you have just a few pins, it's a SATA unit. The adapter should also provide a power connection for the drive.

This is a bit of a gamble - we're hoping the problem is in the power supply or interface and not the drive itself. I suggest before you start that you check for voltage at the output of the AC adapter (use a meter - some folks will try to make sparks and wreck the adapter in the process). If you get nothing, replace the adapter with one having the same voltage and the same or higher current rating. Verify that the +/- polarity markings match (usually center is positive).

This is an integral part of a commercial fire alarm system. Replace or hook up good batteries and that will correct your problem. Their is no way to bypass this trouble feature

Normally windows autodects drives. Are you sure that you have all pieces to it. Ususally the part is powered by the USB port. But it depends on the manufacturer some have power supplies that have to be plugged in. If your unit is powered by a power supply it should light up.

One of the ends will small and the other will have a USB plug. It could be you have a bad wire. Try taking the wire to a computer shop or store and see if you can get a replacement.

Hi

A USBFLB80 is not a hard disk controller, it's an external USB hard drive and does not require any driver when used in Windows ME/2000/XP. This device is plug and play in Windows XP providing you have a working usb port to plug it into.

sounds like someone might have plugged to big of a voltage cord into it. take it apart and hope for a fuse??

If your computer sees the drive > yes, you can drag and drop files.pictures etc. to the drive.
Be sure to remove the drive from the computer by safely removing it in Windows using the "Safely Remove Hard ware and Eject Media" in the Windows Task bar.
You could damaged the hard drive if not done this way.