Farmall Garden - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

I have cub that done same thing, there was crud in orfice between tank and sediment bulb, cleaned orfice, runs fine.

Check the ign coil and make sure all ignition and interlocks are funtioning..

I am almost sure that battery is on a tray that swings out to the side to remove the battery. So it should not be so hard to remove it.

look for a light color coating on the parts if there is clean it off with sand papper check under the cap to

check for sprak take one plug and put one of the wires on the plug, lay it on the block. make sure its on metal. turn over you shpuld see spark if not take cap off and look at the points use a small screewdriver and slide in between the points key on should see spark if not its the coil

no charlie they will not work in your dads engine the sleeves will be to big

I have one that has the same problem,I split tractor to repace rear main clutch an preasure plate,my throw out bearing was bad and the shaft was rusted and would not let the throw bearing go all the way in to the preasure plate

First check and see if the rotor is broke if not check your points,you can file them But i would put a new set in with a condensor,I hope this helps you and thanks

Two possibilities come to mind:

- the water pump impeller may have so much oxidation on it, it's not pumping enough coolant

- the cooling circuit in the block has so much oxidation in it that it is restricting the coolant flow rate through the block

It's like my arteries, I'm the same age as your tractor, and believe it or not my father once owned that same tractor.

I don't remember, does it have a thermostat? . If it does, you could remove it -- that might help.

Hello, W/D here.

It might have to do with your temp or it could be a fuel issue. I had a model "B" (1947) and it sometimes pulled a slight vacuum on the tank, starving it for fuel, and it took about that long. If you have the glass sediment bowel on yours, you should be able to see evidence of this if it is happening, or if you have a vent in your filler cap, it might be plugged. I don't know how a model H tank is vented, but I'm sure that you do.
As to it being temp related; it could be. You can remove and test your thermostat by immersing it in hot boiling water and seeing if it opens. It probably has it's temperature rating printed on the thermostat. If you believe that this is the issue, a lower opening thermostat can be installed to see if this corrects the problem
Good luck, and best regards, --W/D--

Remove valve cover,bring #1 cylinder top dead center,make sure both push rods are loose,put you dist in and were ever your rotor is pointed that will be your number one wire.then you will have to adjust you timing when started by ear,I hope this helps you

Hi there..my name is Keith and i restore tractors....and to answer your question..a Farmall Cub hold 3 quarts of oil..i hope this has helped

Look for a bushing it is wore

Yes, you can leave it on the charger. Modern chargers are designed to handle this, and it won’t harm the battery. However, it’s a good practice to remove the battery once it’s fully charged to prevent overcharging, especially if you won’t be using the tool for an extended period.
Remember to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for optimal battery care, and enjoy the enhanced performance of your Black and Decker tools!

Ensure the membrane is protected with sand before laying the stone to avoid piercing the membrane.

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