Falcon Cycling - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Just Google Falcon Olympic bicycle, as the only way anyone on this site can likely answer your question is by doing the same thing. By doing it yourself you are far more likely to get the info you want, especially as you provide no picture, description, or which parts/components are on the bike. For more guidance see my Tip: How to determine the year value etc of your bicycle I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

You web search "replace bicycle shifter cable" for all kinds of video help and use something like this as a reference for almost anything, plus the right tools...

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

All here...

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems

Google.

For example:

http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/item/01-129762/shifter/Pyramid--Shifter-56-Speed-Falcon-Right-Only&category=shifter

By the "gear arm" I assume you mean that part of the rear derailer that the chain zig-zags through. This arm moves in two ways. It moves in and out (toward the wheel and away) as you move the shift lever - which is how it changes gears, by moving the chain onto different sprockets (gears). It also moves forward and back (toward the front and back of the bike) under spring pressure. This forward and back motion is necessary to take up the slack in the chain when you are using the smaller sprockets (the smaller the sprocket, the "higher" the gear). When the wheel has been removed, this arm moves forward (under spring pressure) as far as it can to take up all of the slack in the chain. All you have to do is grasp this lever and pull it toward the back of the bike, allowing the lever and the chain to pass behind the sprockets (gears) as you pull the wheel back into it's position. You can safely pull this arm forward and back at any time without doing any damage. One more tip-- I find it a little easier if you first put the shift lever in a "middle" gear position. Then when you pull the wheel into place, you should aim to put the chain on a middle sprocket. You don't have to hit the exact correct sprocket as you can simply lift the rear wheel and turn the pedals forward (after installing the wheel) and the chain will move to the correct sprocket corresponding to the setting on the shift lever.
Good luck! Please vote if you found this helpful. Al K

Your handlebar stem has to be inserted at least 2 1/2 inches or else it can snap and it is tightened at the stem bolt at the top. Why are you trying to tighten it at the bottom?

Take the wheel off first.

Have you tried the use WD40 or GT85 Lubes on the seized parts? This is usually enough to free this sort of problem.

If one wants to take off the whole freewheel, one usually buys a freewheel removal tool that matches the brand of freewheel, takes off the wheel, takes out the quick release skewer, puts the removal tool onto the freewheel, uses the quick release skewer (lightly screwed on) to keep the tool from slipping off, then clamps the removal tool into a well-mounted vice and unscrews the freewheel by grasping the wheel rim. They usually come off before something breaks... but occasionally not if they've been on for a long time, since pedaling tightens them... and tightens them... ;-)
- Roy

Go to parktool.com. Bicycle specific tools are required for this repair.

The Next PX 6.0 uses a 27.2mm seat post.

There is no serial number database for those bikes https://www.google.com/search?q=white+super+chief+bicycle+date+of+manufacture https://www.google.com/search?q=white%27s+super+chief ..

serial number is 12900243GT m one. Can anyone tell me the year?

clean your garage and you will have it. or try bike shops.

If your bicycle doesn't have mechanical gears, the issue might be related to the freewheel or cassette, depending on your bike's specific setup.

Standard WD40 is just a 'quick fix' as it isn't an actual oil unless the can is clearly labelled as "Bike All Condition Lubricant". It'll be best to buy a proper light oil like 3in1, 151 Super oil or an actual chain lube. This 'clickey' noise. Is it random and happening every so often or is it a constant, regular click that changes with the speed your pedalling at? Check for slack in the chain. as you wiggle the chain up and down there should only be about a centimetre of movement in the chain. If it's too slack or too tight it can make strange noises. Check the axle bolts and nuts to make sure they're not loose. Check the wheel is mounted straight. If it's turned left or right the chain will 'skip' as it's slightly missing the cog teeth on the wheel. Use the frame at the rear end of the wheel as reference and measure how far the side of the wheel is from the frame on both sides. It should be about the same both sides.

No, not easily, but you could fix it possibly? https://www.google.com/search?q=edge+491+electromagnetic+bike ..

1962

It is a very standard bike, this manual will do just fine. It has normal caliper brakes. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/C1i84aprpSS.pdf https://bikeindex.org/bikes/1022118 https://www.google.com/search?q=Nishiki+Manitoba+manual

dont think you have one believe 89 started having them ------https://www.justanswer.com/ford/1e5mr-1986-ford-ranger-2-9-liter-spark-fuel-pressure.html