ElectroVoice Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

If not the cable suspect the coil in the speaker cut. Try if the speaker pin mearuring low resistance. If not the speaker failed. Try to open the dust cap. And find out the disconected coil

Hello TJ, I am sending you the link so you can download the user manual to guide you in the solution of your concern I hope you can solve it Greetings Franco Dosil Hola TJ, te estoy enviando el link para que puedas descargar el manual de usuario para que te guies en la solucion de tu inquietud Espero que puedas resolverlo Saludos Franco Dosil https://www.manualslib.com/products/Electro-Voice-Dx38-498846.html

It's a powered sub. No amp needed.

www.electrovoice.com/downloads.php

most of this protection are parmanent you cannot adjust any settings.

This is a nice speaker. You could get humming from the wires being crossed they actually do have polarity and better speakers will hum if the wires are crossed. The volume cloud also be too high without input. You also may have some interference with other audio wires or power wires close to the speaker.

MDs have a standard line-level output, so you have your mixer volume up too much.

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test this : Gd bless youLine noise is feeding in from the AC line. Use an ac line filter to block the line noise. RF (radio frequency) interference is being picked up by the power line or wiring. Remove sources of RF interference, such as fluorescent lighting or wireless devices not designed to work with audio/video equipment. Wires between the components are on top of one of the components; the transformers are causing RF interference. Be sure that wiring goes behind the components rather than on top or between components. If there is an equalizer in use, there could be a ground loop. Ground loops can be resolved by installing GLI's (ground loop isolators) on the cables connecting to the equalizer.

From what I have seen of the green phoenix plugs, is that they have 3 connectors. 1 is right 2 is left and 3 is earth. Most Receivers use RCA phono plugs with leads that have phono plugs each end So you would have to cut off the plugs of one end of the lead and bear the wire then attach it to your green plug. Unless they make adapter leads!

Normally it's the other way round, something gets hot and cuts out! The procedure for doing solving this is to spray the suspect device with Servisol Freezer Spray, when it stops functioning, if it's faulty the spray will make it come back on. But in your case I suggest you do the reverse of this. When it starts working spray a suspect part one at a time with Freezer Spray. If it stops working you have found the faulty part. To speed up the process you can heat it up with an soldering iron, plus check when you think you have found the culprit.

The woofer is blown recone or replace it

What question do you have about this?

I just replaced diaphragms in the tweeters in a pair of EV Sentry 200 speakers. The tweeters had 4 bolts holding them together. One of them was stuck. It's just a matter of gently but firmly twisting it back and forth until it starts coming apart. Make sure you take it apart evenly or it will bind.

well most of the expense is in the body of your mike, i could suggest finding a replacement microphone element form a electronic pars suppler if that's the fault, in other words start using the phone an do some research, otherwise it should not cost you more than about 80 dollars max to have your mike serviced by a service center.

They used what is a called a "Miter Fold Machine" to cut the cabinet from one long piece to something you can fold up that looks like your cabinet.The short answer is they did not mean them to be serviced. However the two methods you can use to get into it are, 1- locate the corner where the ends came together and try work them apart,2- get a sber saw (mistakenly called jig saws these days) to cut a window in the back of the cabinet. Save the insert and attach it to larger piece that fits over the hole- you will change the tuning of the speaker slightly, but the larger panel with the cutout attached will bring the volume back close to original and the overlapping edges of the patch cover should be sealed to the cabinet. Paint them flat black like the originals and they will look better when done.

That link doesn't work or it leads to a convoluted place where have to know more to find it.

http://www.retrevo.com/support/Electrovoice-TG7-Amps-manual/id/22385bh026/t/2/

It sounds like their service is on par with the website presentation. They couldn't even define it for you?

I'll take a feeble swing at it. The manual shows it has Event Logs. I'd start there and see what else is indicated. Eventually an understandable decode might appear.

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on; or it may turn on but produce no audio to the speakers.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'nekkid'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

The first step is to eliminate problems with other items of equipment. Speakers rarely both go at the same time, so it is more likely that there is a problem with the amp or output from the mixer. Ideally test with a different amp which is known to work, using a line output device such as a CD/ mp3 player directly into the amp, without a mixer. It is worth checking with alternative cables too - occasionally the wires can get tugged out of the terminations, or even break somewhere on the length of the cable. If all this fails then you'll need to open up the speakers and test the individual drivers with a multimeter to check the coils have not fried!

Edges of what? The cabinet? The woofer? The center of the woofer? If you have certain lighting, the flexure at the edge of the cone may go through a point that it reflects light.

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