Electrical Supplies - Page 6 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

I am wiring a Superwinch 4500 to my Yamaha Rhino.
Problem the two red wires go to the key switch.
Do they just splice into the 12 wire ?

This should be 110v so you will have black wires, white wires and ground wires. The grounds wires both go to the ground bar, the whites wires both go to the nuetral bar, or can be wire nutted together, the black incoming (feed) wire goes to the buss bar that the breaker plugs into and the black going to the furnace goes into the breaker lug.

this cannot be easily answered, if the power supply is in the fixture simply run a new wire to the new switch. if the power is in the switch run a wire from the same switchbox to the new location and wirenut the wires on the switch to your new wire. remove the switch to the new location and ummy off your old switchbox.in either case the latter should be the easiest and safest way to go. always be sure to turn the power off at the panel box. and remember electrical work isnt like your typical trades bad things can happen when very quickly if you dont know what you are doing.

used a multi tester to locate the right terminals

The interior flood light bulbs were the new flourescent energy savers. I replaced them with incandescent and it worked with the dimmers.

The pressure relief valve will be to low, or your load will be to heavy.
Kind regards Marcel van ****

The 2 silver stops with thumb screw are the stop & start indicators. Loosen thumb screws adjust start & stop times. Tighten.

#1 cause is a bad lamp,try changing that 1st, 2nd if they are two lamp fixtues you ballast could be going bad/or is. Another solution could be you have a loose common/neutral which is normally the white wire @ the light itself of if it is junctioned @ your switch. I would check those items befor spending the money for a new switch. hope this helps.

Have you switched off all switches at the pool filter or anywhere else that breaker supplies downstream? That needs to be done before you reset the breaker... Then you turn on each appliance (if more than one) in order and check which is tripping the breaker... That appliance is faulty and needs to be fixed... If everything is off downstream of the breaker and it keeps tripping itself, I would get an electrician to look at it as it could be very dangerous to investigate further yourself. You could try another breaker switch, but be sure that the mains power to your premises is switched off to isolate the breaker box before you remove any breakers.

Unless the power is fed into the light fixture in the room below, you'll need to pull a wire from an outlet or from the panelboard. If this is all finished space, you may wish to call an licensed electrician to do this work for you. They have specialized tools that they can use to route the new lines with minimal damage to your existing finished walls. It will cost a bit, but will probably save you money in the long run since less finish repair work will be needed.

the corroded surface is causing arcing wich is inturn heating up the whole works,REPLACE WITH PROPER BREAKER AND BOX AS THIS IS A FIRE HAZARD!

I am assuming you are talking about a Natural Gas or LP furnace. The blower motor is powered by a separate 120 volt circuit, so flipping the 240 volt breaker for the furnace will not shut it off. There should be a regular light switch at the furnace that will turn off the blower for servicing the unit. When you take the cover off the unit, there should be instructions on how to re-set the igniter. If it won't re-set, try shutting off the gas for a few minutes, then turn it back on and then reset. If none of this works, and you can't find the owners manual, call a service technician.

NORDYNE , GOODMAN, AND NUTONE ARE ALL BUILT BY SAME MFG SO IF YOU TRY ALL THESE MAYBE YOU CAN FIND THE HELP YOU NEED

Check the following:
AVR
doids windings
stator windings
rotor windings
exciting windings
AND
Exiting windings could have losts its 12volt exiting load. In that case it must be exited by 12 volt external battery
Another common problem is burned off wire or loose connection

you should have a 3- conductor # 6-3 copper wire running to this 60 amp breaker @ the furnace to the panel if this is not the case you should replace this with a # 6 as of now as it is a fire hazard as it is and needs to be fixed at once , # 10 -2 wire is only good for 30 amps and a 60 amp breaker will not trip under fault condition and you could have a fire , if you need further assistance on this let me know and i will try to help

Hello, You can try re-terminating the connector with a crimp on style connector. Just make sure the wire going to the element is in good shape. If the calrod heater element has shorted out it may burn the at the connection again. If not, you have fixed it! Good luck...gary

YOU COULD REMOVE THE ELEMENTS KILLING POWER FIRST AND TAKE THEM TO THE HEATING AND COOLING SUPPLIER NEAR YOU SEE IF THEY CAN CROSS IT WITH ONE THAT WILL BOLT UP OF EQUAL WATTAGE , AS FAR AS THE 72 COLEMAN THE TECH IS MOST LIKELY CORRECT .

START WITH THE THERMOSTAT ,MAKE SURE YOU HAVE POWER COMING AND GOING BACK TO THE UNIT .COULD HAVE BAD T-STAT OR BROKEN T-STAT WIRE.

Insure the motor wires are hooked to the line in and nuetral posts of the timer. If they are and the timer can be triggered manually then the motor is burned out. If the timer cannot be triggered manually check the breakers at your electrcal panel to see if the one of them may be tripped that supplies the power to the timer.

Good Luck

Put one wire from switch to black wiring coming in and the other to the black going to the ballast.
If you do not understand please post back