Dacor Ovens - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

take the bulb back out and check to see if the prong that hits the bottom of the light bulb is making contact. If that don't work then its most likely going to be a short or a wire problem of some sort...Do all the basics first the work your way down...It should be to hard if your willing to go further if necessary...If not then its time to call the tech...Hope this helps you out..

I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both. I have a degree in electronic technology so as a technician for many years did low and high voltage component level repairs. But pretty easy and you can visually see the open solder joint on the back of the board at the relay leg. Jim B Roseville, CA.

It sound like the board is faulty, its quite common after power surges can cause damage to small circuit boards like clocks, I would recommend changing it as the clock will also provide timing for switch on at a set time cook for time as well. http://dacor.com/Search.aspx?query=ECS227 Epicure Electric Hope this is helpful Regards John

Try turning the power off at the breaker for 12 hours.

I had the same problem, tried turning the power off for a few minutes but that did not fix the problem.

Leaving the power off overnight seems to have fixed it.

there may be a backup battery built in to this unit to keep the clock running in case the power goes out. depending on the age of the unit, it may need to be replaced. the battery size and number as well as it's location should be in the owner's manual.

Hi, According to your model number this code means Shorted or stuck key. Your keypad needs to be replaced. Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Possibly needing to screw them in a little tighter, please disconnect the mains power before doing so

chk the spring and the door hinge. it is probably the hinge-spring that is broke, or slipped out of the hinge. lol.

It is possible that the lamp is being powered through a ground loop in the stove or a contact in the control, is not disengaging. The lamp is possibly a neon bulb and I have had this happen . It is usually not a big concern and difficult to track downif it is a ground loop.

this could be the control pwb or touch pad is bad

i just had a similar problem .the door would fall and i had to lift the top of my door hinge to close it .I found that the pin on the door hinge spring had fall.en out . I installed it back and now it works the way it should.the spring should feel tight with no movement.

Are you buying hi quality oven grade lamps for this purpose that'll take the intense heat inside an oven? I wonder if they're halogen or tungsten filament lamps. Defective solder, frosty joints and/or ring fractures on lamp driving areas of a circuit board ARE indeed capable of causing problems with lamps.

The back of the oven has to be removed also so you can disconnect the terminals from the element.

Check fuse box or circuit breaker (MCB).

I purchase parts from an appliance parts supply. You could also purchase elements let's say from a Home Depot. You can buy used parts from area used appliance stores. Nowadays you can purchase almost anything on-line.

Does any of the elements get hot?

Your temperature censor may need to be replace. try geting the fault code diagram from the manufactor brand.

Is it the entire oven or just the heating element?

Should be two screws under the knobs on front of panel

I found the answer on other posts on this website and it saved me $500! I had the same problem with my Dacor Model ECD2278 double oven. After I ran the self cleaning the top oven would not come on and the lower oven ran almost double the temp that was set. To fix: disconnect power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Open the oven door. You'll see the grille/grate/steel cover in front of the door latch mechanism, and it should have about 4 screws holding it in place. Remove the screws then remove the grille cover. On my model the tiny red reset button was on the right side on top of a black plastic round piece which is about 1" in diameter. Press the little button down til it clicks.