Dacor Ovens - Page 3 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

usually located inside the oven near the top left but varies in other models, at bottom, at top, it looks like a tiny thin pc of tube or metal or glass and held by a couple screws

It sound like the board is faulty, its quite common after power surges can cause damage to small circuit boards like clocks, I would recommend changing it as the clock will also provide timing for switch on at a set time cook for time as well. http://dacor.com/Search.aspx?query=ECS227 Epicure Electric Hope this is helpful Regards John

Check the lower heating element for voltage (>180), if present then the element is bad.

Hi I found the schematic and a whole lot more here: http://www.msaworld.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2014/07/Dacor-Technical-Manual-All-Products.pdf

Hi, According to your model number this code means Shorted or stuck key. Your keypad needs to be replaced. Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

sounds like an oven fuse?

usually located on the backside

check the brioler heater

had this issue b4 the door latch was not communicating with the over control board? not sure in ur case but can check with multi meter

chk the spring and the door hinge. it is probably the hinge-spring that is broke, or slipped out of the hinge. lol.

Possibly needing to screw them in a little tighter, please disconnect the mains power before doing so

Are you buying hi quality oven grade lamps for this purpose that'll take the intense heat inside an oven? I wonder if they're halogen or tungsten filament lamps. Defective solder, frosty joints and/or ring fractures on lamp driving areas of a circuit board ARE indeed capable of causing problems with lamps.

I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both. I have a degree in electronic technology so as a technician for many years did low and high voltage component level repairs. But pretty easy and you can visually see the open solder joint on the back of the board at the relay leg. Jim B Roseville, CA.

i just had a similar problem .the door would fall and i had to lift the top of my door hinge to close it .I found that the pin on the door hinge spring had fall.en out . I installed it back and now it works the way it should.the spring should feel tight with no movement.

probably a defrost terminator or defrost timer issue, check with multi meter, u may also have a bad heater element

check elements with a multi meter for continuity

It is possible that the lamp is being powered through a ground loop in the stove or a contact in the control, is not disengaging. The lamp is possibly a neon bulb and I have had this happen . It is usually not a big concern and difficult to track downif it is a ground loop.

The back of the oven has to be removed also so you can disconnect the terminals from the element.

FixYourBoard.com will test and remanufacture the relay oven control board in this model. Each rebuild comes with a two year warranty. Reach out to us at 512-355-1108 or [email protected]

Does any of the elements get hot?