Cuisinart Coffee Makers & Espresso Machines - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

No. It happened to me twice. The first time they replaced the whole machine. The second we decided to buy a different machine.

why question to all of this is with a "self clean" button, why doesn't it every tell you to clean it..... ??

Nope

Defective worn out battery pack.

Hello ! The water drain route may be clogged or cracked, check these components, the hot water hose not to be cracked, chipped or broken, etc.

"GENTLY"'tap around it and try again

Most likely the heater is breaking down or may have over heated and the flakes are the corrosion breaking off on the heater itself.

http://wl.fixya.com/support/t26635928-cuisinart_10_cup_coffee_pot_all_water

It has a short. Mine did the same. If under 3 years old cuisinart will replace for $10 shipping charge. If out of warranty, cheaper to buy a new one, than have that one fixed. Call 1-800-726-0190

Hello,
If your brewer sounds like it should be brewing but little or no coffee comes out, the problem may be a simple malfunctioning check valve, located on the right hand side of the unit under the plastic cover. If the check valve is clogged or fails, water from the tank leaks into the air pump (located just below the valve) disabling the pump.
This happened to my brewer two days ago. I have had this unit for about four years and never had a problem. When I called tech support at Keurig they said "it sounds like the pump is shot", but there was nothing they could do and they would not repair it. Instead of the throwing out my $300 coffee maker I figured I would try to fix it myself.
After 3 hours of tinkering, I found and fixed the problem, so I am passing on the tip. Since 2.5 of those hours were spent diagnosing the problem, the fix itself is pretty simple.
The pump that pushes the water out of the tank located on the right hand side of the unit (I included a photo) has a check valve just above it. On my unit the check valve failed allowing water to enter the top chamber of the pump disabling it. The pump was not damaged it just cannot operate correctly with water in it.
Here is the Fix: Disconnect the check valve and make sure it is operating correctly. Mine was clogged with a small amount of mineral deposits, which was cured by a half hour in a glass of vinegar, and a good rinse. Then disconnect the tubing from the top of the pump and run the unit to allowing the water to escape the pump. Make sure there is no water left in any of the tubing between the pump and the check valve, even the smallest amount will disable the pump again. Reconnect everything and it should work.
I hope the above helps.
Regards.

It's possible that it's not a motor problem, but a switch problem. I dissassembled mine, and am debating replacing the switch. I would try a multimeter, but the safety interlock is a pain.

So I might just rewire it (very easy to do!) so that it runs the minute it's plugged in, and stops when unplugged. I'll post again after I decide what to do.

Unplug the unit from the AC outlet. Remove the six screws that hold the lower plastic cover on the motor base (four screws are hidden under the adhesive rubber footpads). This exposes the lower end of the motor shaft, which has a slot in it. By inserting a flat blade screwdriver into the slot and holding the cutting blades with a rag or a wad of paper towel to avoid cutting one's fingers, it is possible to twist the shaft back and forth about 90 degrees. You may need another person to help, because one needs to perform this twisting action while pulling the motor base away from the grinding cup and blade assembly.

Once you get the @&%$#! thing apart, reassemble the motor base. (With the slotted motor shaft, why didn't the designers simply put a hole in the plastic base so one could stick a screwdriver in without disassembling it?) Plug it into the wall outlet and use a small object like a toothpick or matchstick to activate the recessed motor switch so you can spin the motor without the grinding cup in place. Use the blunt edge of a small snap-blade utility knife as a scraper to gently scrape the plastic pin of the motor shaft as it spins, much as one would work a wood turning lathe. Periodically check the fit of the brass hub of the grinding cup on the plastic pin. Continue to shave the pin until the grinding cup slips onto and off the pin with no resistance. Take care to machine the pin uniformly from top to bottom; avoid making grooves.

Why this mechanism worked properly when my grinder was new about 18 months ago and suddenly decided to get stuck this week is a bit of a mystery. The unit in question has been used since it was purchased exclusively to grind flax seed, but the ill-fitting pin normally doesn't come into contact with foods, anyway. There was no obvious evidence of swelling of the plastic due to heat from the motor or oils from seeds. Since the blade and hub are free to travel up and down on the plastic motor shaft pin a bit, I suspect that on occasion the blade doesn't settle properly and the clutch doesn't engage, allowing the pin to spin in the brass bushing until it starts melting, and then the hub settles so that the clutch is fully engaged. This may happen in a matter of just a couple of seconds of operation. Once that happens, the pin conforms to the microscopic grooves inside the brass bushing, allowing it to still turn slightly relative to the motor shaft, but locking it on so that it can't come apart. If Cuisinart had made the pin more tapered and the hole in the brass bushing to match, much like a Jacobs taper on an industrial drill press spindle, this would be much less of a problem.

BOTTOM LINE: Before loading the grinding cup and starting the grinder, push the blade hub down with your finger to make sure the clutch is fully engaged.

Try a courser grind on your coffee.

https://www.cuisinart.com/share/pdf/manuals/dcc-2600.pdf

Hi - As the coffee maker i have grind and brew just started leaking- I started to take it apart - what i found as of now the screws on the bottom that holds the metal plate has a Allen or torx head as some call it- on mine the inside center of the screw head as some sort of guide pin sticking up in the middle of the head- its small but its there-the correct tool for mine you need for easy removal is a allen wrench with the hole or indent in the middle of it to sit correctly inside the screw head - I got two of them out with an allen; but the other two had to be drilled out - I am assuming they put this style screw in to not allow or make it somewhat difficult for the average person to take out - if they made it easy they would not be able to sell more coffee machines - anyways got the plate off and the hoses were not cracked or had come loose that I could fine - I re-adjusted the hoses farther up onto tubes they attached too and tried again with some water - its still leaking - so there is another possibility that the water tube the hoses are connected to have a pin hole some where in it - apparently it has been leaking for some time now due to all the corrosion and rust I found on the metal plate- i used only distill water and also change out filter inside coffee machine- before I give up on it - I am going to try and work on the inside of the machine- take it completely apart- but before that happens I will wok on doing a cleaning of the coffee pot screw lid and the baskets that catches the grind. That's my two cent worth.

Many times this is a result of the coffee grind. To overcome this with some brands, I use an additional filter, put the desired amount of coffee in it, and then fold the sides over to make an envelope. Place the folded sides down and brew coffee. If any of the coffee gets out, the second filter should catch it.