Crosley Washing Machines - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

The machine thinks the door isn't closed. Could be due to a faulty door switch or control board.

Likely possibilities:

1. Coupling between motor and transmission has broken.
2. Transmission has failed.

Number 1 is cheap and relatively simple to replace. Tip the machine up in front and place a support under the front edge of the cabinet. Look for broken pieces on the floor. See if you can freely rotate the motor shaft without affecting the transmission shaft. Check that the transmission shaft can be turned by hand. If yes to both, replace the coupling. If it breaks again after a short time, transmission is likely bad Number 2 is expensive and difficult. If the coupling's not broken and the motor is operational, OR the coupling breaks again after only a short time, then replace the transmission, or the whole machine entirely.

You could try a reset by unplugging the cord, wait 10 minutes or more, then plug it back in and press the Start/Cancel button. Otherwise, if a chinese control board is bad, you'll need a technician.

LE error code. The machine thinks the door is open. If it's not, then the switch or control board is faulty.

Unplug the washer for at least 10 minutes, then plug it back in and press Start/Cancel.

According to the user's manual, this is the normal sound of the water inlet valve (solenoid) during fill, and is not considered a defect.

The manual for model CAW9244 is here ... http://www.crosley.com/assets/product/3251/useCareGuide.pdf

Get the manual for CAW9244 here ... http://www.crosley.com/assets/product/3251/useCareGuide.pdf

The LR code means "Locked Rotor". This could be due to:

1. The control board at the top of the unit has lost connection to the motor and its control board at the bottom. Check for loose connectors. Also try 're-seating' each connector by pulling it off and pushing it on two or three times.
2. The motor and/or control board at the bottom are shot.

The LR code means "Locked Rotor". This could be due to:

1. The control board at the top of the unit has lost connection to the motor and its control board at the bottom. Check for loose connectors. Also try 're-seating' each connector by pulling it off and pushing it on two or three times.
2. The motor and/or control board at the bottom are shot.

The transmission is shot.

The water valves are controlled by a solenoid. If water is merely dripping into the tub, then that valve is worn out and needs to be replaced. This problem is often caused by too high a pressure in the household water supply. It should be only abour 60 PSI. If it's "running" into the tub, then it's possible the solenoid is getting power when it shouldn't. In that case, suspect a faulty chinese control board.

The end of your drain hose is too low causing a siphon action. Your user's manual lists the minimum drain hose height for your model in the "Installation" section. Generally speaking, it should be at least as high as the top of the tub, or 3 ft.

Possible drainage problem, or control board failure. To check drain, disconnect the power cord from the receptacle, then remove drain hose from pump. Ensure there is no blockage in the pump nor in the hose. Reconnect hose and clamp. Reconnect power cord and check. If still no good, suspect failed chinese control board.

The washer is stuck in "pause" mode. You can try pressing the Start/Cancel button to see if that clears it. If not, try unplugging the washer for about 10 minutes to force a reset. If still no go, suspect problem with door latch/striker switch or failure of a cheap chinese control board. In fact, failure-prone chinese control boards are at the heart of virtually all premature failures of modern appliances. They usually only last just long enough to span the warranty period. There should be an electrical schematic diagram attached to the back of the unit. You may be able to use that to identify the faulty part. Don't be surprised if the replacement board costs alot more than it's size and simplicity might indicate.

Typically, that would be caused by failure of a cheap chinese control board. In fact, failure-prone chinese control boards are at the heart of virtually all premature failures of modern appliances. They usually only last just long enough to span the warranty period. There should be an electrical schematic diagram attached to the back of the unit. You may be able to use that to identify the faulty part. Don't be surprised if the replacement board costs alot more than it's size and simplicity might indicate.

have u tried unplugging it a few minutes then restarting it? some units also have a shut down fuse and it may have shorted? U are getting power? other wise a bad terminal block

bad inlet valve not allowing any water in? Does it do in on both hot and cold water wash? or bad water pressure switch saying it is full of water when it is not? thus it will not fill? does it go into wash manually? u can check these with a multi meter for continuity

Typically, that would be caused by failure of a cheap chinese control board. In fact, failure-prone chinese control boards are at the heart of virtually all premature failures of modern appliances. They usually only last just long enough to span the warranty period. There should be an electrical schematic diagram attached to the back of the unit. You may be able to use that to identify the faulty part. Don't be surprised if the replacement board costs alot more than it's size and simplicity might indicate.

Hum u can check to see if the lock switch is bad by bypassing it with a jumper lead ( a SMALL pc of wire in the shape of a U ) to the ends of the prongs inside the machine not the switch? if it works then , u know its a bad switch OTHER WISE U MAY have a bad control board or bad connection to the switch and board were the wires have seized or cinged