Champion Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

There are four main parts that keep the airplane running and functioning during flight. These parts are the wings, fuselage, cockpit, and the engine. For more detailed information on these four parts, check out this link: http://www.ehow.com/info_8113262_four-airplane-parts-keep-flight.html.

Mostly tools such as this is a piece of generic far-eastern equipment that are loosely copied from successful established western brands. Domestic names buy these in bulk and market them cheaply and with few exceptions there are no spare parts available. If the unit gives trouble while under warranty the company will provide a replacement or a refund but out of warranty they mostly aren't interested. I suggest you contact the supplier and ask if they have any returns they will break for spares, otherwise you will need either lots of luck or you will have to adapt a different table or make alternative arrangements.

Parts from Champion website. You may need a new cutter, sometimes cheaper on ebay.

I've been using my Champion for about 20 years, and have always used a very thin coat of olive oil on the turn shaft before sliding the cutter on. I've also used it before I've used the grain mill, and it has been fine.
If I were you, I think I would get out as much Crisco as I could with a chopstick (or something similar), put in some liquid soap, and some hot water. I would think that would loosen anything that was compressed or stuck. It might take a few times, but that's what I would try....or you could order a new cutter from Champion. I've had to order parts from them in the past, and they have been great.
Hope this helps.....

Where is the noise coming from?

First, check to see if there is a set screw in the side of the cutter which screws against the shaft.

If no set screw, a gear puller would probably do the trick. There are many types -- you might luck out and find one which will fit on your first shopping trip.

It's like a suction is created. I have had this happen. I managed to get mine off with a blunt knife to give a bit of leverage (not ideal I know to put a knife near an expensive piece of equipment but it worked for me) Once you have the blade cutter off I suggest oiling the metal prong that it sits on with something like vegetable oil or olive fairly regularly to avoid this happening again.

Set the spark plug gap at 0.025 inch (0.6 mm).

I couldn't find parts for your drill, but if you call or e-mail the manufacturer hopefully they can help you. Department Inquiries Customer Services Phone: 516-536-8200 Email: [email protected]

Hi, I believe the motor needs a ring job. You will have to disassemble and get new rings on the piston. Also look at valves guides they will need replacing. In short , you'll have to get a new motor. Hope that helps.

Identifying the Correct Spark Plug and Gap Try this link, but personally I buy pre-gapped plugs, makes it simple and takes the guess work out of it.

There is a short or blown fuse test solenoid If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/richard_b59056c0c62ecb00

Hi, I'm not sure quite what you are asking for here. This particular gapping tool is for aviation engine spark plugs. The clue is in the AV at the end. They are available from aviation parts and accessory factors such as LAS & Aircraft Spruce and others. You can often pick them up at aero-jumbles that feature at local air-shows. The unit should have with it a number of ring adaptors, if buying second hand make sure you get the adaptors for the spark plugs you wish to use it for, otherwise it's useless! The ring adaptor screws onto the spark plug and then placed into the gapping tool. This gapping tool can only close the points gap, it cannot open them again if you close the gap too much, you need another tool to open the gap, I don't know the part number but it looks like a little spanner. Don't be tempted to open the gap with a screwdriver against the electrode, you'll crack the porcelain and right-off the plug. Best thing is to get some Champion Aviation spark plug feeler gauges, they are wire type gauges and not flat leaf type. Place the wire gauge between the gap and use the gapping tool to close the gap until it just jams the feeler gauge, stop there and do the other gaps in a similar way. Rgs. Bob

Your Yamaha 650 V star has an electronic ignition module. It is likely to be faulty. They are not cheep so take a deep breath! Before spending the money you must check the obvious:- Do you have good fuel in the bike and not some old stuff that's been used for a two stroke mower? Does the engine have two good compressions? Does it smoke bad when it runs? Is it making unusual noises? Have you check and tested, or changed the spark plugs with new? Have you looked in your owners handbook for fault causes and remedies? If all other things seem fine you could take a punt at fitting a new ignition module or for piece of mind take it to a dealer and ask him to confirm the problem for you before spending the money. Good Luck. Bob.

Hi, I'm not totally sure but I seem to remember that the CB 600 series had twin coil-packs that deliver the spark to the engine spark plugs. One coil-pack will operate two of the cylinders and the other coil-pack operates the other two cylinders. These coil packs do have a habit of breaking down and the spark will not be produced for the two spark plugs that it powers. The coil-packs can be found at the opposite end of the spark plug leads, which I seem to remember are moulded into the coil-pack. You might have to change both coil-packs as I'm not sure if they are available separately, anyhow, if money is not a huge issue it would be best to change both for brand new. Be warned; second hand is not a good idea with coil-packs. while at first they may seem OK, as the coil heats up they may start to break down and cause very erratic running symptoms and misfiring (remember it's a coil and it will heat up as the electricity passes through it + the heat of the engine). If the Coil-Packs can be separated you could swap them over and see if the problem jumps to the Nos. 3 & 4 cylinders. NB. you can't just swap the ignition leads as each lead from each pack is specific to a cylinder. You would have to swap the units and all of the wiring. Sounds complicated but it's just a matter of separating the coils from the wiring loom by disconnecting the connectors, then connecting them back up again having swapped them over. If that doesn't prove the coil-packs are at fault, then the problem will be the CDI pick-ups. These units tell the coil when to operate to give the spark, they are generally bullet proof and if there is a problem hear, it's most likely to do with the wiring to and from them. Good luck, Bob.

www.championpowerequipment.com/ Adjusting valves on any warm engine is wiser . Specifications are usually listed for both.

Go to http://www.kiatechinfo.com/ and make a free account, logon to that account and you can see all the info the mechanics use. It is not easy to navigate though. One thing is that the switches are inside the transmission so fixing it is not something easy to do, if there are no drive ability issues then you might want to ignore it.