Burton Winter Sports - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

According to Burton "Please note that EST® bindings will only mount to boards with The Channel™." Re Flex or EST bindings

All shippers offer some form of protection if you pay extra for that service. UPS for example insures up to $100 per shipment, and if the goods are over that mount they ask for additional amounts. Contact fsesession and check the company policy. They make the rules and when you make a purchase and pay for the goods, you are accepting their policy. If they do not cover goods lost in transit, you are the looser.

take it back theyll give ya another mount it happens when there mass manufactured

Do you mean the lace eyelets?

if this is the case, you can either sew them back on with thread or hot glue them. if it is the actual laces that came out. Buy new laces and replace them

Go to www.trusnow.com
Used to be Sierra Snowboards, I just had a look and they have them for $189.95.
http://www.trusnow.com/Burton-Triad-Snowboard-Bindings.asp is the link straight to the product.
Good luck.

The threaded inserts are built into the layers of the snowboard so they can not come out while riding. Imagine if they were able to be pulled out and one came out while you were riding - your boot and binding would lift right off the snowboard. You can try to fix the threads with a tap (threading tool), but otherwise they will not be able to be fixed and you would have to get a new board. If you just bought the board, you could try contacting Burton about having it replaced.

id check the cables, they may be damaged, try it with the jacket flat on the floor. ive gone through 4 jackets all with bad wiring, unfortunately Burton doesn't have any more warranty replacement jackets...

Chips in any well used snowboard are inevitable, but you can prolong the life of the board by taking care if this right away. The best thing to do is to fix any spot that is peeling with epoxy. If the part that is peeling is large, it might be best to use a razor blade/xacto knife and cut it off around where it stops peeling. Make sure the area where the board is peeling is clean and completely dry. Then mix up some two-part epoxy; the 15 or 30 minute cure type which you can buy at any general store should be fine. Spread the epoxy evenly across the area where the peeling top layer meets the second layer beneath. If you left the part of the top layer that is peeling, spread epoxy in any crevices made by the two layers. Allow this to dry naturally (do NOT apply heat, as this could cause bubbling and make things worse). Once the epoxy dries, you can either let it be, or lightly file or sand any rough spots of epoxy. You then shouldn't have to worry about the peeling anymore.

Call me crazy but most Snowboard pants as of yet don't have a separate "fit". That means you won't have any described as"loose", "baggy" "straight leg" etc. What you have instead is that snowboarding pants are made w/ space and flex @ the knees and are wide enough for boots @ the ends. Any adjustment to "fit would have to made in choosing what size you planned on wearing. Hence if you wanted em "baggy" get em bigger etc...

The springs can die in buckles after a while and all that you can do is replace it with a new one. Try your local snow store and see what they have in their parts kit.

You're situation is not uncommon. I have dealt with bases de-laminating like this several times in the past and it is usually always due to something causing the glue to become brittle and fail. Whether this due to wear and tear will depend on the condition the base is in. If the base is all torn up and has gouges along the edge of the rails then no one will take it seriously because it could have been water damage. If, however the base is in good condition then you should still have a chance of getting it warranted. Contact Burton or better yet contact your area sales rep, explain your situation and your loyalty to Burton (even if its waning a bit now) and ask them what they can do. If they are cool they will at least hook you up with a really good discount on a new board. Also if you ahve a good shop near you (or better yet the one that sold it to you) then go in and see if they are keen to help.

I always fought for people in your situation so with a little luck you will fond someone else who wants to help too.

The waterproof membrane material in your gloves is actually glued (welded) to the inside of the fabric and so is well protected. What you also have is a DWR coating that stops water getting into the outer layer of fabric that protects the waterproof membrane. All you have to do is visit your local outdoors store and ask for a good waterproof fabric friendly cleaner and a re-proofing product for the DWR coating.

i just recieved a new lacing for my Rocky revolver boots... there is a little tool to loosen the set screw in the knob...works like a charm.

For the ankle you may need some specially shaped foam inserted between the boot outer and the liner to take up the space. This can be done at any good snow store. As for the laces make sure that when lace up in the morning lace the boots all the way to the top and when you reach the top, while holding the laces, flex in the boot a few times and kick your heel against the ground to make your your foot in snug (this may also help issue #1. Once you have done this, pull up hard again on the laces and loop them once around the top before tying a double knot.

Sometimes if the boots have been well worn the lace will pill inside its tubing and become stuck. The best way to fix this is to untie the jammed lace at the bottom and then pull from the top to remove the damaged lace. You will also need to get a replacement lace from your Burton store to repair in reverse.

Some missions are better left unfulfilled.

You just need to remove the binding form the board and look underneath the binding. If it doesn't drop out by itself just lever the broken piece out with a flat head screw driver. Once this is done you can insert the new part screw on the cap strap

You may also want to look at how you are setting up your bindings. I have a US 11 foot (29 cm) and with my bindings set correctly have never had any issues with toe or heal drag.

The best way to set up your bindings it to take them off, remove the mounting screws, keep the base plates in and fit your boots into your bindings with the straps still undone. Then, with the board on the floor, position the binding at the angle you like (roughly) and look to see when the toe and heel over lap is even or if you are like me pull the bindings back slightly so that you have little or no toe drag and just little heel drag. It works a treat and I have done this for over a hundred customers over the years.

The Hero is designed to work with Burton's special two bolt system. The base plate on the Burton bindings is much stiffer than standard (like the on the Kass's) so will flex and loosen quickly. The best solution if these were both bought together from a store is return them as they should not have been sold together. If this is not possible then sell the bindings and buy the correct Burton model. If this is not fixed the mounting screws will eventually damage the board and need costly repairs.

You can buy small nylon patch kits from most camping stores that come with glue and a selection of patches which can be glued to the inside of your bag to repair the hole. These patches are made for camping gear and waterproof clothing so are perfect for the job