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Standard Vanity height is approx 34.5". A vessel vanity is approx 31" high. If you cannot remove the legs from your existing vanity then it will have to be replaced or cut down to the correct height. The reason a vessel vanity is lower is because your sink will be approx 3 to 6 inches higher than a standard drop in sink. This may be more work than it is worth. Vessel sinks most often will require a solid surface top, either glass, stone or another type of composite material. The standard laminate vanity top has a particle board substrate which will detiorate quickly at the drain location.

this is probably because the unit is plugged into a receptacle that is not switched. or the switch could have gone bad

its time to replace it. the problem is internal. no use trying to fix it.

Check all of your seals. Wipe your hand all the way around your disposal to check for moisture running down. Pay close attention to the areas where there are seals, like the top where the main gasket is located and the side where your drain connects there are rubber gaskets that can begin to leak. Also check where the dishwasher drain connects if applicable. If all gasketed areas are ruled out than unit itself may be leaking and need to be replaced. I hope this helps.

Your disposal is stuck. Sounds like something either fell in it, or perhaps a bone got inadvertantly tossed in. Do you own an allen wrench set? The garbage disposal did originally come with one, but it usually gets lost. The one that came with it will look like two hockey stick stuck together. In any event, you need one for the fix. There is a hole on the bottom of the disposal, directly in the center. Find the correct size allen wrench and place in this hole. Twist clockwise and counter clockwise until it is free. Once this is done, you most likely will need to hit the reset button on the bottom. Good luck!

There is a screw or a nut that you need to turn counter clock wise to remove and loosen.

In most units, there is a 'splash shield' that is held in place by friction only that can be easily removed. This creates the extra space (for my hand at least) to reach down into the unit to clear any hard objects. If you have pebbles in the basket of the unit, you should be able to remove them by hand without further disassembly. If you find nothing to remove, then the noise comes from elsewhere (bearing, blades) since anything that has managed to get out of the basket, won't make noise any more.

These motors have aluminum coils that are not secured by winding shellac (short run duration motors) and can break. If you hear a hum but the motor doesn't turn, you can start it by turnning the impeller with a wooden stick. If it starts, the starter winding or switch has failed. (Please make sure your clickson switch on the bottom of the motor doesn't need resetting.) Just exchange it for one that works. It shouldn't have failed this soon. Good luck.

Theres a reset button on the side of the thing.  Also check the breaker box to see if the switch got flipped.

This is the first I have ever heard of that I would contact In Sink Erator with your model and serial numbers they have excellent customer service the number is on the sticker on the unit

The unit probably randomly tripped its overheat switch. There's a chance that there's an internal thermal or electrical fuse that will need to be replaced, but you'll probably find a reset button next to where the power cord goes into the machine.

The problem should really have nothing to do with potato peels. Even a cheap disposer should have no problem chewing up things much worse than that.
There are two main things that could be causing your problem: 1. Defective disposer or improper installation 2. Improper usage of disposer (more likely)
I've been known to put entire sinkfulls of waste down the diposer (mine is an ancient thing from the 70s), and I've had a clog maybe once. You have to be conscious of the amount of water that's going down with the waste. Ideally, before anything solid at all goes down the drain you should turn the faucet on COLD full blast and then turn on the disposer. The grinding mechanism is so fast that the disposer shreds the solids and blows them into the drain pipe at a very high rate. If there's not enough water down there to get thrown down the drain pipe with the waste that's when a clog happens. So don't turn the disposer on AFTER putting a lot of waste down there and always do it with a full flow of cold water. Feed the disposer gradually with the waste and let it run until it sounds empty.
When done right, the worst clogs can easily be dispatched with a plunger in three or four strokes. With a toilet the best way to it make sure the plunger is sealed good and plunger with short, fast, powerful strokes. When you unclog a disposer, the clog is almost always in the connection where the disposer discharges into the drain pipe because of the funnel effect. When you push the plunger down the water pressure will go up but the waste will compact tighter and resist flow even more. You want to push the plunger down and let it leak until you get it as far down as possible, then let it form a good seal and give a powerful upward stroke. That'll create strong suction and pull the clump of waste particles back, where they'll mix with the excess water and go right down the drain. If you don't have a plunger, you'll find that for some reason a soda can will work in a pinch.

The badger 5 has a dislodge device on the bottom right in the very center. An allen wrench will fit if you have lost the tool that came with it.

FIrts you will need to dislodge anything preventing it from turning. (Insert the right size allen wrench and turn both directions) The remove whatever comes loose after dislodging.

Then opush the red reset button on the bottom. Check the breaker that powers up the disposal, as you may have tripped it.

If the breaker is on, the unit is turning freely, and the reset button is pushed, then the next step is to check for power using a volt meter, to make sure the disposal is indeed getting power. If all the above has been done, the unit IS getting power then yes, the disposal needs to be replaced.

honestly, unplug the garberator, tap it a few times with yourwrench, not too hard.. and try again.. if it does not free up, the motor itself is finnished.

There usually is an anode rod in a water heater that is there to attract the lime from the water. This helps prevent lime build up in the bottom of the tank and makes it last longer. However, the downside of this is the sulfur smell that comes as a result of the anodization (chemical) process. You could remove the rod and plug the hole in the heater to eliminate the smell. You'd give up some length of service as a result.

Does it stop turning, then shut off? Another words, seizing the engine? Do you have to jar it free before hitting the reset? If so, there is something stuck in there, if not, sounds like it might be time for a new one. Very simple installation...same housing, so you wont have to change the strainer.
If switch operated, make sure the switch is "OFF" and disassemble wiring.
Loosen nut on the drain arm and raise.
simply spin the housing part (new one with come with pictures/direction).
Really is an easy fix and can get a disposal for fairly cheap money (anywhere from $60ish to $hundreds). Depending on usage, a 1/3 horsepower will probably do the trick. !/2 is your best bang for the buck though. Good luck and dont hire a plumber for over $100 when you can do it yourself in 30 minutes.

Hello there:
you will need to make sure that all of the hoses from the unit are free of debris first ok
than if you need to remove the blade assembly and clean out the area around the unit and than reassemble the blades and see what happnes ok if not you will need to remove the entire unit and see what is making the unit malfunction. ok
best regards michael

usually there is a small port in the bottom of the disposal on the bottom that you can get a allen wrench in. you can use that to turn the blade plate and free it up. take a shop vac and **** out the metal before you turn it back on. if that doesn't work alot of times you can get some dish soap and pour a ton down there and the soap will help flush the metal through the plates once they are freed up. but i would try and get them out first

You need to purchase a garbage disposal wrench. It has a Tee at the top and extends down to a pivot with a large forked head. Drop this down and turn the blades until they start to move. Remove the wrench, run hot water and turn on your disposal. Both blades should now be free. There also might be a red reset button on the bottom.

SOUNDS LIKE MOTOR MAY BE BURNED OUT.
IF SO, U CAN TURN BY HAND, BUT MOTOR
WINDINGS MAY BE FRIED SO IT WON.T RUN.
U MAY HAVE TO REPLACE. SEE IF U CAN
SMELL FOR BURNED WINDINGS.