Winter Sports - Page 6 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Clutches can be easily disassembled using the proper puller and spider removal tool, you will also need a holding fixture as the spider can be very tight.

A huge proportion of footwear of all sorts are made using sizes taken from the standard Italian last. It has become a sort of tradition because Italian shoes have been world reknown for elegance - as a nation the Italians have notoriously narrow feet. People who don't have "Italian" feet usually need to buy shoes based on width fit in order to achieve comfort and in doing so will often end up buying shoes that are up to three sizes too long.. Add into this unsatisfactory situation the fact that not all manufacturers cut on the generous side, as with clothes, and the further problem when shoes are produced in metric and then converted into British or American sizes that rarely coincide, providing low cost manufacturers a further opportunity for meanness and rendering the more expensive footwear generally superior as being much closer to the size printed on the shoes or boots. Buying shoes and boots these days with preconceived notions about what size you need is a pathway to unnecessary expense and discomfort and much disappointment. Only expensive children's shoes, exclusive brands, a very few specialist and bespoke shoes are available in a variety of width fittings for each size, leather shoes do have the benefit of "bedding in" but shoes and boots made of synthetic materials rarely do and if they do it is a slow process. People who must buy mailorder often order two, three or more pairs at once in order to make comparisons. If you are not in a position to do that I suggest you either have your feet measured for width and length or obtain the instructions to measure them yourself and then provide the measurements to the shoe or boot supplier or manufacturer and request they supply boots to fit the width of your obviously non-Italian feet.

Hey Dave, Have you replaced the air filter? Try running it without the filter to see of that makes a difference.. bad gas will not cause this.. Sometimes its cheaper to take it to a professional..

try using the choke...

I can't see the "box" you are referring to! It is cardboard, or made of wood, or plastic, or steel, or aluminum, or some other material?

Are you sure reverse isn't locking up the engine?

I think on a worn startermotor. To be sure, give a little knock on the startermotor end when it won't start. If then it's good starter, then its the startermotor. If still not good, replace your battery.

Certainly the carbs should be treated as a pair and so when one is suspected both should be checked. The cylinders will be unable to perform equally unless both carbs are tuned equally and synchronised at idle and at various throttle openings. As part of the checking process it is important to ensure both cylinders are capable of performing equally. A compression test has limited use and a cylinder efficiency test is better. Injecting compressed air into the cylinder would prove the effectiveness of the valve seats and piston rings. A small amount of leakage of the inlet valve seat would make little difference to a compression test but it would make a great deal of difference to the way the cylinder performs. Another important check is the valve clearances and also the ignition timing if it is adjustable. Some engines with twin ignition systems need to have the timing set for each cylinder.

Reduce the idle RPM.

As far as I know, sleds have two directions. Forward and reverse. To make it go in the opposite direction, push it in that direction, or turn it completely around. God bless your efforts.

According to the specs it has carbs and auto oil injection.

This is the same as doing any slider type CV carb, no matter the machine. Check the link. How to Carb Synching

Clean the engine with a pressure washer and then run it and id the leak, no quick fix for this type of problem.

taking that this a motor cycle then you have suffered what is known as" brake fade" to understand the term it works like this for brakes to work, kinetic energy ( spinning brake rotor) is converted to heat energy by the friction caused by applying the brake this loss of kinetic energy is the braking action or the bike slowing down normally there is enough heat transference to the passing wind but if the heat generated exceeds the heat transfer then the brakes and rotor will not absorb any more heat generated by the friction and so the brake stops working (like oil on the pads or linings) what cause it to happen-- there is clearance between the disc rotor and the brake pads but if the brakes are applied then the brake fluid is pushed out against the pistons and applies pressure to the rotor ( braking action) when the brake is released the fluid is returned to the reservoir and there is no problem BUT if that fluid is not allowed to return fully, the brakes remain on( your brake drag) and the heat generated besides going to the air , also heats and expands the brake fluid with nowhere to expand to , the brake is applied by the expanding fluid AS all brake fluids are hydroscopic( absorb moisture from the atmosphere) the water in the brake fluid boils off and you loose any pressure because the system is now full of air and air compresses when the brakes cool down the brake action comes back as the air has bled back to the reservoir The fix is to replace the master cylinder and the brake fluid and to ensure that the calliper slides freely on the mounting rods so that it self centres over the rotor what you have experienced is very common on heavy trucks on long down grades where the brakes over heat and fade resulting in control of the truck

That is the rev limiter kicking in.

Damaged wiring and/or dirty or corroded wiring connections or switches seems likely. A wiring diagram would be a help in tracing the circuit of the hand warmers and during the process other problems will probably become obvious. It is easier to start by tracing a permanent fault than intermittent faults.

U could get a new one

Find a wire that has 12 volts or more on it when the engine is running. Wire in you plug in connector to that, I would put an inline fuse in it also.

Water in tank or not enough spark or float is stuck

Check compression if it is low then you will have to pull head anyway so you may as well have a look/see!