I am having the same exact problem on an old Hobart Beta Mig 200
sometimes i can weld for 5 minutes and other times as soon as I hit the trigger it trips the 50amp breaker. Any help?
Metallic inert gas or mig welding for short - unless using flux cored welding wire, an inert gas is an essential part of the welding process.
The torch and tube assembly usually consists of a welding cable to carry the welding current to the wire tip of the torch, a wire liner through which the welding wire is delivered and a nylon tube through which the gas is delivered and a return wire from the trigger. The whole is encased in a single heavy duty tube.
I suppose the nipple could be the gas inlet - why not try it and see...
TIG weding is next to brain surgery as far as CLEAN goes.
You must get your AL clean, either by 1. Clean with a NEW Stainless Steel brush or 2. by using a chemical from the welding house that is made just for that.
Your cup must be clean and your gas flowing at the right amount,no leaks in o-rings or hoses.
Hold your cup more vertical and keep your filler rod in the gas shield always,no in and out movement.
In short you must get everything perfect to get quality Heliarc Al welds.
Good luck, HowardRoark
Hi there, Tig is very brite.If your seeing spots I would try another hood for awhile.If the battery is to weak or you can't adjust up to shade 12 for tig it can be very hard on your eyes.I would try a regular hood on some scrap and see how that works.I couldn't change the battery in my hood so I just had to buy another one.One other thing check for leaks in your hood.You've already done that more than likely. Do you need a cheater lens?
Most mig welders use an electro-mechanical contactor to switch the welding current through to the torch and others use an electronic means.
The heavy current transformer, rectifier and chokes are robust and rarely fail. If welding a high duty cycle they are protected by a thermal breaker that cuts the power until the unit has cooled.
You need to check welding current is available from the transformer, through the rectifier and choke and if so the problem is likely with the contactor.
The correct current, or amperage, setting primarily depends on the diameter and type of electrode selected. For example, a 1/8-inch 6010 rod runs well from 75 to 125 amps, while a 5/32-inch 7018 rod welds at currents up to 220 amps. The side of the electrode box usually indicates operating ranges. Select an amperage based on the material thickness, welding position (about 15 percent less heat for overhead work compared to a flat weld) and observation of the finished weld. Most new welding machines have a permanent label that recommends amperage settings for a variety of electrodes and material thicknesses.
https://welderreview.com/yeswelder-15ft-250a-mig-welding/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yTnfRS9B04So, for gasless MIG welding polarity (when using flux core wire), your MIG welding polarity settings should be set to direct current electrode negative (or DCEN). With DCEN, the negative terminal inside your machine is hooked up to your electrode (your MIG gun) while the positive terminal is hooked up to your ground.
https://makemoneywelding.com/how-to-set-your-mig-welding-polarity-settings/
