Welding Tools - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

A lot of wire feeding problems can be cured by changing the contact tip. It only takes a little contamination, weld splatter, arcing to cause the symptoms you've described. With over 40 years experience with wire feed welder I've found that 9 out of ten times feeding problems are tip related. The drive roll tension cab sometimes cause the symptoms you're describing. Also keeping your mig torch as straight as possible, no curls or bends will help eliminate feeding issues.

Check the duty cycle specs. The specs should tell you how many minutes you can weld at certain amps before the machine has to cool down for x amount of time before it will at the specified amps again. From your post that sounds like what you're up against. Hope this helps.

Hi, Please check your relays and contactors. If a relay is shorted on, this issue would occur. Also, please check that your contactors are not stuck. Thank you.

A good sand trap louver supplier in UAE, will provide you the product, customizing the requirements of the buildings, members and work of the office. In HVAC system sand trap louver are used to take the fresh air in as they are designed to separate particles of sand and dust at low air velocity.

governor spring worn or loose screws on the goveror itself

An electrode is a coated metal wire. It is made of materials that are similar to the metal being welded. To begin, there are consumable and non-consumable electrodes. The electrodes in SMAW, also known as a stick, are consumables, which means they wear out during use and melt with the weld. TIG Welding Electrodes are non-consumable, so they do not melt and become part of the weld. Electrodes are continuously fed wire during GMAW or MIG welding. Flux-cored arc welding necessitates the use of a continuously fed consumable tubular electrode containing a flux.

switch from tig welding to mig by switching your current from AC to DC for mig. change from your tig gun to your mig gun. turn water flow off. proper ground and weld away.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1750612/Lincoln-Electric-Ranger-330mpx.html?page=45#manual

Plasma Arc cutting is an excellent choice for most cutting applications but it is particularly well suited for applications where speed and excellent cut quality are important. Because of the intense heat of the plasma arc – around 40,000° F compared to 5,700° F, with gases used with Oxy-Fuel torches – the cut is clean with little or no dross.

The plasma also cuts ferrous and non-ferrous metals much faster than an Oxy-Fuel torch or abrasive saws, with low or no heat affected zone, especially on thinner metals. A clean cut with little or no dross means less time and money is required to finish the work piece. Parts are virtually weld-ready

125EN Manual.qxd (buffalotools.com) Copy the above link into a microsoft edge browser address bar and click on it. The user guide has a lot of photos about assembly. Perhaps one will be what you are looking for. Or if you are currently using Edge, just click on the link. Good luck. Otherwise, perhaps the guys at the following link might have a picture for you. Contact them: https://reviewmotors.co/chicago-electric-welding-replacement-parts/

check earth cable and cleanliness of parent metal?

Contact Miller directly to request the Big 20 wiring diagram.

Yes, you can, but:Based on your question, I guess you're not an electrician. Seek the assistance of an electrician - any unqualified modification of the electrical equipment can be dangerous.

Replace fuel pump.

The presence of a click (if it is the starter clicking) should indicate no fault in the starter switch, etc. New battery (fully charged?) and a good starter motor - if the current could reach the starter the engine would have to crank, assuming there is nothing wrong with the engine or generator preventing the engine from turning. Try rotating the engine by hand to ensure it isn't locked and test the battery and starter by energising the starter solenoid manually. Engine should crank. If the engine doesn't crank the high current supply or battery/engine ground is suspect.

Make sure that the ground cable has a solid connection.

Question edited for clarity, full 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved from Lincoln Cars to correct category. Check the connections on the back of the switch. The kill switch usually dumps the ignition voltage to earth, or cuts the power to the ignition coils.

It does say it is primarily a TIG welder. My guess is the the sticks are too heavy gauge for it. Did you get a manual with it? https://www.google.com/search?q=Powcon+300ST https://www.google.com/search?q=Powcon+300ST+manual ....

moved you out of cars to welders TIG dead. well see if breaker in shop tripped first.