Water Heaters - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Do you live in a climate where the hot water line could have frozen? If your heater did freeze up, that could be very bad. This is because water actually expands when it freezes and can do a lot of damage to pipes and to the water heater itself. My other thought is possibly a clogged in line water filter. But typically a clogged water filter would make it run with reduced pressure rather than a complete shutdown all water flow.

Error Code 20 on a Noritz tankless water heater (model EZ98DV) is typically associated with an issue with the "priority" function, which is a feature that allows the water heater to prioritize certain uses of hot water over others. When the "priority" light is flashing and error code 20 is displayed, it typically means that there is a problem with the priority function and it needs to be reset. To fix this issue, you can try the following steps:

1. Turn off the power to the water heater by turning off the circuit breaker or removing the fuse.
2. Wait for about 10 seconds and then turn the power back on.
3. Press and hold the "priority" button for about 5 seconds, until the "priority" light turns off.
4. Turn the water heater back on and check to see if the error code has cleared and the "priority" light is no longer flashing.

If the error code 20 still appears and the priority light is flashing, it's best to consult the manual or a professional technician to diagnose the problem. It's important to note that the error code 20 can also be caused by other issues such as, faulty thermistor, faulty thermistor harness, faulty PCB, etc. So, it's best to get it checked by a professional.

https://www.fixya.com/support/t13643459-a2_af_error_codes

There are FAQ's at the following location:

http://www.titantanklessheater.com/page/1227557

Could be a few things. Most common are reversing the water flow (putting your cold water input into the units hot output instead of the other way around) or not bleeding the air out of the unit (running water for a minute with the unit off) before using it. Could be a bad flow detector switch or an internal malfunction as well. If you review the link above and my tips and don't find anything then contacting the company is probably your best option.

I'm dealing with the same issue and the impeller on the flow sensor had broken off inside the sensor so the unit doesn't think it's getting the water flow it needs. Fix is replace flow sensor

Cambiar los elementos calefactores en un calentador de agua el?ctrico Lochinvar es una tarea relativamente sencilla. Primero, deber? asegurarse de que la electricidad est? apagada. A continuaci?n, retire el panel de acceso superior para acceder al elemento calefactor. Desenrosque el elemento calefactor viejo de la tapa del tanque y reemplace con el elemento calefactor nuevo. Aseg?rese de que los elementos calefactores tienen el mismo voltaje, vatio y estilo (roscado o con pernos) que el elemento que est? reemplazando. Luego, vuelva a colocar el panel de acceso superior. Si necesita ayuda para cambiar los elementos calefactores en un calentador de agua el?ctrico Lochinvar

it is to low here is a link to trouble shooting. https://manualsfile.com/product/pmbfwyue29.html#troubleshooting-tips

Here are the parts schematics and sellers of parts. https://www.google.com/search?q=Grohe+integrated+Grohmix+34+436 'temp knob does not work', but you don't say in what way, but some help here. Google will normally find any issue https://www.google.com/search?q=grohe+integrated+grohmix+34+436+temperature+knob+not+working ....

Question edited for clarity. Those boilers only work if they sense water flow. Try opening the tap fully and see if it will stay alight. Then after a 5 minutes, see if you can reduce the flow, which will increase the temperature of the water. A blue flame is good. Don't forget if it is only a couple of months old, it is under warranty, call the seller, Coleman or the installer.

No, there isn't an Error 09, but there is a E19. https://www.tanklesshotwaterguide.ca/about/rinnai-tankless-error-codes/ https://www.google.com/search?q=Rinnai+E110CN+error+E09 ...

The circuit is about to overload and the break could turn off due from too much electricity being used.The circuit is overloading or there is a problem with the panel needs to be replaced or the wires for your heater could be frayed or have tears in them and need to be replaced.

I've ended up with a Drayton Tempus 3 when I bought my house, and I think this is how it works. It allows you to set 2 Timers (I'll call them timer 1 and timer 2) so that you can control Hot Water or Heating On/Off times twice a day. The unit has 6 buttons - 2 for Adjustment, 2 for Hot Water and 2 for Heating. The 2 Adjustment buttons allow you adjust the Clock Time, or allow you to adjust Timer 1 and/or Timer 2. NOTE: Timer 1 is the time refered to on the Heating / Hot Water Select buttons if you press "Once". If you select "Twice" on these the both Timer 1 and Timer 2 are taken into account. For example if you want Hot Water to come on Once between 8pm -10pm, but you want Heating to come on Twice between 6am - 7am, and 8pm -10pm, you have to do the following: Set Timer 1 to 8pm - 10pm, and set Timer 2 to 6am -7pm. Then select Once for Hot Water, and select Twice for Heating. Hope this helps.

I've run in to quite a few of those the last 2 or 3 seasons, so they sure aren't fun. The odd time I have got real lucky by putting threaded plug back in, and tightening it real tight, then taking it back out and the anode took a bite to plug again and came out. Last few I did, basically had to tap it in slightly, carefully, so as not to let is drop in tank and then not be able to retrieve it. If the wire (like coat hanger size) , is still sticking out where you can get a good grip with a small pair of vise grips, then try that, and try wiggling it slightly as you pull. Last one wouldn't come even then, so I took a small drift punch and tapped wire in center, back toward tank an inch or 2, which left me a hole approx 1/8", so I threaded in a long bigger diameter screw that took a good bite to the soft metal zinc anode, then tried pulling on that as well while wiggling. Still wouldn't come, so I tapped it inward slowly, making sure I still had good grip with vise grips on screw head. Kept going in a little, then pull out a little each time as well. This one actually had to go in until it cleared opening in tank, ( didn't want that, but that was the idea of long screw, so I still had a grip on it.) but I still had hold of screw head attached and it wiggled right back out through hole after that. Most times at worst it would only have to go in about 1/2", then a good pull and some wiggling would get it out, but last one was a close call. Hope this is of some help. If explanation not clear enough, feel free to reply and ask more questions. If /when you get it out, let me know how it goes will ya?

Tankless promotion is certainly slick and inviting... -Tankless gas save about $100 per year vrs pre-april-2015 gas water heater for 'average family of 4.' -New energy standards will reduce the expected savings to $70/ per year. -Tankless electric cost about $100 more per year to operate than ordinary electric water heater for 'average family of 4' -Do-it-yourself repairs are generally not possible with tankless. -Tankless gas require larger vent and larger gas line, and a condensate drain. -Whole-house Tankless electric will probably require a new electric service panel -Tankless require yearly deliming/ descaling of heat exchanger... and heat exchanger will lose efficiency over time because of scale... even if unit is delimed each year. -Electronic controls are vulnerable to surge -Only the alloy heat exchanger has long-term warranty, but otherwise the warranty is same as typical tank heater -Tankless cannot be exposed to more than 11 grains hard water or parts can fail within 2-3 years -Tankless might not be able to keep up with higher temperature setting needed to fill very large tub (or any bathtub) if incoming water is too cold due to winter conditions. Etc. Example Rheem tankless resource: http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html http://waterheatertimer.org/pro-n-con-for-tankless-water-heater.html Example installation for tankless electric http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html Gene Water Heater Timers Save Money If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

these units have an inlet filter i would check that first, 2nd i would turn on 3 hot water sources and see after doing see if it corrects last try resetting the unitit. the 3 - 220 circuits are for the heating elements.

If water is leaking from a pipe. then replace or repair the pipe or fitting. If the leak is coming from the unit itself, then replace the unit. Hope this helps.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Kitchen Ranges. Sounds like the temperature sensor is failing. https://www.google.com/search?q=rinnai+e110cn+set+back+temperature ..

Your residential water heater is not 9000 watts. Or it would blow the fuse every day and melt the wire. Instead, you have dual-element non-simultaneous 4500 watt water heater.http://waterhatertimer.org/How-it-works.htmlhttp://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.htmlLook at label for 'total connected watts'http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Whirlpool-energy-smart-watt-rating-IMG_2600.jpg25 amp breaker or fuse and 10 gauge wire is minimum acceptable for 4500 watt water heater.http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-code-wire.htmlTroubleshoot blowing breaker or fuse:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#trip-breakerWhy does it blow fuse once each year?? I don't know.Fuses and breakers trip when overheating occurs on wire.Each fuse or breaker is rated for heat, and over time, it will get hot and then cool and then get hot again ... this action weakens fuse or breaker.To solve problem: install 3500 watt elements (and clean sediment out of tank). Wire will run cooler, and fuse will last longer. Whole fuse box will demand less power, and run cooler, and will last longer as a result. So there is less stress on electric service panel.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html3500 watt element will heat water to same temperature, but takes longer. For example: 4500 watt heats 21 gallons per hour, while 3500 watt heats 17 gallons per hour. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

First try turning the knob all the way to "pilot" then turn it all the way to its hottest setting.

It sounds like the thermostat/sensor is stuck. This may jar it into working again.

Also look for any leakage or water around the burner.

You will probably have to replace the gas valve in the near future.

Also try tapping the side of the gas valve.