Scuba Diving & Snorkeling - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

To rebuilt a first stage regulator requires special tools a quailfied service technician should rebuilt it put in a o-ring in the wrong spot can be fatal at deep depths you can call scuba pro direct and they can assist you in finding a repair facility close to you are they can repair it .

Roughly around the 800rpm mark

The wipers went out in my 94 Ranger, found out that it was a bad ground connection. I'd check that first as it only takes two minutes to move the ground to another location.

sounds like a burnt out window motor. had the same issue with mine. started working slow then one day went down and had to pull up on it while my wife held the up button. squeezed it from both sides with my palms until it was the way up. Mechanic said what i already new . needed a new window motor.

my power plate, the base has started making loud noises Why???

Sounds to me like an issue with the throttle body. Have this checked it could be as simple as the cable is slipping off the throttle body

Could be as simple as bulbs died. Second I would check if lights have good grounding (these things tend to corrode over time. Usually black wire and have connection to vehicle's chassis). Or could be broken wire/shorted wire.

Hey scuba2man, I have the same problem. Did you ever work out what was going on? My console didn't register any depth for first couple of dives (I had to turn it on every 5 mins to check air). Next couple of dives it told me I was between 98 and 103 metres deep (whatever that is in feet). I was at a maximum depth of 22m!!
I will let you know if I find solution. If not then I'll just get a new one!!!

Most scuba stores can provide you with the glue.

All is working

Go to someone who dives

Not a scuba diver

Have oxygen sensor checked out, pain in the to replace yourself unless you have equipment like a good touch

You more than likely have a high temp sensor opening up the circuit when it reaches its limit. It would have to cool down to close again. Either that high temp sensor is bad or your heater is getting too hot.

How old are the tires? Nylon thump is from a previous generation, radials should not have that.

Because 1) DPFE Sensor is designed to measure EGR flow 2) You tried severeal DPFE sensors => EGR Flow is actually low Problem could be a dirty EGR valve, or bad solenoid (the thing that directs vacuum to open valve)

I noticed another FixYa guru here answered a question on another strand that applies to yours: Also, please note this person on FB claims to be the Lemax fix-all guru. You can ask them more specific questions:http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:0YBPB3sM28kJ:https://www.facebook.com/eHobbyTools%3Ffilter%3D2+&cd=10&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us The Knex website has building help for this problem. There answer is as follows: Make sure all rods and connectors are fully hooked together, especially the blue and gray connectors. Even one peice not fully hooked together can twist the model just enough to jam the gears. (You may have it hooked together correctly prior to jam problems so it is good to check since I found a loose on holding the motor.) The chain links need to all be attached in the same direction, and fully hooked. The chain also needs to be on the tower with the hooks facing down and in as the chain runs on the outside of the tower. (Chain should be outside on the front and inside in the back with the 5 yellow bar side in the front.) Check that all gears are positioned correctly according to the instructions and the teeth facing the correct way. If you are still unable to get the seat to drop, you may remove the top yellow cross rod that the chain runs over - the model will also work with this piece removed. I did all of these steps with my son and his still had trouble dropping all the time. It still seems light so the seat didn't have enough weight to drop with gravity during the non-moving cycle of the orange half gear. We decided to tape on 2 marble passengers to see if that helped. It did!!! When searching for other solutions, I noticed a UTube video that added people also so this seems to be a common solution. Try it or some other light weight added and see if it solves your problem.

Step 1. Check radiator water level 2. Check fan belt tension 3. Use compressed air and blow through BOTH engine radiator and hydraulic radiators in the REVERSE direction of normal air flow. 4.Flush out engine radiator with radiator flushing additive. 5. Ensure that all rubber foam around radiators is gap proof, this keeps maximises air flow through radiator fins and stops hot air from engine from recirculating back in to radiators.Hope this helps

You're talking ancient history here. You might find a manual, but critical parts were unobtanium many years ago. Display it on a wall and call that good.

well.. sadly with electronics, is alot of times they honestly just instantly stop working, id plug it in and search for a reset button if it might have one. with prices of tv's these days, honestly probably cheaper to get another one then pay to have that one fixed. If you know how to take some of it apart you could see if it has a fuse somewhere, most people dont think about it but alot of electronics have fuses to protect them from surges etc, and its as simple as replacing the fuse, would be inline with power cable somewhere