Refrigerators - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Troubleshoot step by step and if that fails, resort to a professional: Check the Basics: Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in and receiving power. Verify that the water supply to the refrigerator is turned on. Inspect the Dispenser Actuator: The dispenser actuator is the component that activates the switch to send voltage to the dispenser. Check if the dispenser actuator is damaged. If so, replace it with a new one. I list a procedure for testing this actuator at the end of these basic steps. Frozen Water Tube: Disconnect the water supply tube at the bottom of the door. Blow air through it. If air doesn't pass through, the water supply tube may be frozen. Thaw it out and ensure the freezer is set to the proper temperature (0-10°F) to prevent future freezing. Water Inlet Valve: The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. Ensure the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. Use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If it lacks continuity, replace it. Check Water Filter: Remove the water filter and dispense water. If flow increases, the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace the water filter if needed. Verify Water Supply Valve: Ensure the water supply valve (connected to the refrigerator) is fully open. If disconnected during service, it might not have been turned back on fully. And now, the testing of the actuator. To determine whether the dispenser actuator in your KitchenAid refrigerator is damaged, follow these steps: Visual Inspection: Look closely at the dispenser actuator. Check for any visible signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, or breakage. If you notice any physical damage, it's likely that the actuator needs replacement. Functional Test: Press the dispenser lever or button as you normally would to dispense water. Observe the response: Does the actuator move smoothly and engage the switch behind it? If the actuator feels stiff, loose, or doesn't move at all, it may be damaged. Listen for Clicking: When you press the dispenser lever, listen for a clicking sound. The actuator should make a distinct click as it activates the switch. If there's no click or an unusual noise, it could indicate a damaged actuator. Multimeter Test (Advanced): If you have a multimeter, you can perform a continuity test on the actuator. Disconnect the refrigerator from power. Remove the actuator cover (if applicable) to access the actuator. Set the multimeter to the continuity (ohms) setting. Touch the multimeter probes to the actuator terminals. If there's no continuity (infinite resistance), the actuator is likely faulty. Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing these checks, consider seeking professional repair assistance. Remember to consult your Owner's Manual for specific instructions related to your model. Much of this information comes from the RepairClinic site.

This is your freezer. https://www.google.com/search?q=Artic+Air+Model+AF49EX My advice is to check the defrost heater for efficiency and also for correct placement. You could also add an additional heater rod or heater blanket to the place where is freezes up. https://www.google.com/search?q=Artic+Air+Model+AF49EX+defrost+heater ..

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

compressor shutting down

Why does hot air come out

See Troubleshooting section in user manual Troubleshooting; Problems And Solutions - Samsung SR-L62 series Owner's Instructions Manual [Page 17] ' ManualsLib User manual Samsung SR-L629EV (English - 22 pages) Samsung refrigerator error codes

When you open the door, all the cold air tumbles out, so the fridge starts up to replace the cold air. As you close the door it is running, but you can't hear it. One it gets to temperature, it stops. It can sometimes do this is seconds. If it was truly stopped, everything would be defrosted in the freezer and everything in the fridge would be warm. ...

Compressors are noisy due to its job. Check there is no packaging between the motor and any other part as that can increase the noise.

Could be but sounds like it may be low on gas. What emp do you set it at. Should be about 35 degrees if you have it set to low it will ice up on you. Russ

Remove all bottles and shelves from the unit. Unplug the power cord from the outlet and wait for the unit to cool down completely. Locate the screws that secure the boards to the back wall of the unit and remove them with a screwdriver. Carefully pull out the boards and disconnect any wires or connectors attached to them. Replace the boards with new ones and reconnect any wires or connectors. Secure the boards to the back wall with the screws and tighten them firmly. Plug the power cord back into the outlet and turn on the unit. Reinstall the shelves and bottles and adjust the temperature settings as desired.

I have one also mine is a 1992 build year

The make appears to be known for beeping. Try a power reset. Pull the wall plug for 5 minutes. https://www.google.com/search?q=Samsung+RFG297HDRS+cool+select+pantry+keeps+beeping Video

See troubleshooting tips on page 26 for help GE PYE22KYNFS user manual (English - 98 pages) (manuals.co.uk)

Page 9 of the manual, back upper right corner https://products-salsify.geappliances.com/image/upload/s--dJG7xmc1--/85553cf15b3719905b992ef19e49bbcc339c121d.pdf All the specs in the maker page Water Filtration GE Water Filtration MWFP https://appliances.monogram.com/us/specs/ZISW360DM#specifications-and-files ..

Condenser coils blocked with fluff. Door gasket leaking and letting the cold out. Loss of refrigerant gas. Faulty Thermostat / Thermistor. https://www.google.com/search?q=sub+zero+611+compressor+running+continuously ..

Yes, or you find a 12 year old child. In most cases they are already calibrated. You can ask the shop to show you how to adjust either are the showroom or in your home. Or phone Hotpoint Customer Support. There are a couple of videos in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+Air+Tech+Evolution+fridge+freezer ..

Question edited for clarity and typos. Question moved from Cars and Trucks category. Turn it off briefly. Spray it lightly with aerosol sanitizer spray. Wait 5 minutes and switch it back on. Repeat the next day. It is only dust. You could also use a Compressed Air can or use both, blow clean and sanitize. Covers are just fixed with hidden plastic clips these days. All to save a couple of cents. Help and videos https://www.google.com/search?q=Bosch+exxcel+maxx+freedom+performance+fridge+remove+fan+cover ...

Question edited for clarity, make model (what it is)'. Question moved from Cars and Trucks Category. Please don't type in all CAPS, no SHOUTING!. Check the fuse or breaker. Call for service, it may be compressor or capacitor failure. https://www.google.com/search?q=metalfrio+SCLM1-27-12+no+power ..

Your defrost timer is bad