Masonry Tools - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

You are looking at a major disassembly to get at the cutter head bearings, everything is built around the cutter head. The motor drives the cutter head on one end of it and the cutter head drives the rollers at the other end. Most of the components have to be removed to get the cutter head and it's bearings out. You can go to www.ereplacementparts.com and do a search on your model number for a good breakdown of your planner and see what you need to remove to get at the cutter head and it's bearings.

You might have the outfeed table lower than the blade. If the outfeed table is adjustable, then you can check it easily with a steel ruler. With the Power OFF, lay the steel rule on edge on the outfeed table so that it hangs over the blade. Rotate the blade by hand in the forward direction. The blade just just barely touch the ruler. If the ruler is bumped up and pulled forward by the blade, then this is the problem. If your outfeed table is not adjustable, then you need to adjust your blades. If this is not the problem it may be that your wood is not uniformly dried.

If you're looking at the planer from the infeed side, there's a belt guard on the right side of the head. Remove it and check the condition of the drive belt. If it's broke the motor will spin without powering the cutterhead and feed rollers. The drive belt is still available as part number 22-563 on sites like http://servicenet.dewalt.com/ and www.ereplacementparts.com. Just put your model number in their search box and find the drive belt in the breakdown.

I assume you mean that the two tables are not in parallel planes. No, I don't think adjusting the gibs is going to buy you anything unless they are so loose that the tables don't seat flat on the ways. If this is a very old jointer, and the ways are worn so they are no longer flat, then might have to regrind them - but that would be difficult. I would measure the amount of "out of parallel" that the tables are at different depth setting after tightening the gibs so that the tables are just a little harder to move. If they are out of paralell by the same amount at different table heights, then I would put the whole jointer (not the base of course) on a surface grinder and grind both table tops. Of course you would need a pretty big surface grinder, depending on the size of your jointer. Good luck!

search and find og google easly available

Go to http://servicenet.dewalt.com, put your model number in the search box and you'll be able to view/download the parts breakdown and owner's manual.

First, safety stuff: Make sure the jointer is unplugged and be very careful with the knives, they are quite sharp.You should have enough room between the tables to get the knives out, if not remove the stationary, outfeed table. There are four hex-cap screws on each knife that hold the clamp bar on. Remove them with an allen wrench or hex driver if you have one and take the clamp bar and knife out. Pay attention to which way the bevel is on the knife so you put them back on the same way. If the blades have never been turned, they are double sided and can be turned around so the opposite side is out. The knife and clamp bar are designed to go on only the right way. Make sure you get the hex-bolts on very tight. Do the other knife, replace the table and make a couple test runs to check allignment.

Lower the in feed table to keep it clear of your work, hold a straight edge on the out feed table, both sides, adj the knives to just touch the straight edge, both sides the same, all knives set the same, should work like a charm, do not answer the phone while you are doing this. check all jib screws twice to make sure they are tight. Hope this helps.

The most important part of the jointer is that the cutting edge is perfectly level with the out feed table, then, bring up the infeed table, with straight edge on rear, make all adj necessary to get these things lined up flat, not level, but flat, straight, even. Then it will cut perfectly flat and even. no snipes,. Hope this helps.

I guess the belt isnt fixed up properly leading some mishaps with the tension. Try remounting the belt as below:
Unplug the jointer. Invert it on a thick cloth to protect the blades and the work surface. Underneath you will see a base plate that covers the bottom and is held in place by seven screws. Remove all of the seven screws and set them aside with the baseplate. With the baseplate removed, you will see the power leads running to the main switch and back to the motor.
Remove the hex bolts that hold the motor in place. There are two on one side of the motor (indicated by purple rectangles in the picture), and another one on the other side. Remove them completely to allow the motor sufficient room to move in order to place the drive belt over the motor spindle. If your hex key is not long enough for this job, hold the key in a pair of pliers or vice grip to remove them. (Now that the jointer is disassembled, this is a good time to clean all the motor housing thoroughly and lubricate, if applicable.)
Lift and rotate the motor and attach the drive belt. The motor will not easily return to its normal position. In the picture you can see just how far the motor has been turned to get the drive belt on. Insert the hex bolts again, deep inside a very narrow space, whilst using a fair bit of force to hold the motor in place. This is the difficult part, and you may utter a few choice words at this point and consider some unauthorized modifications to the housing. With patience and persistence you should be able to secure the hex bolts once more and once again have an operational planer/jointer.

Hi,Click on the link below for the manual downloads.http://www.mikestools.com/download/Delta-Planer-Owners-manuals/22-540.pdfHope this helps.Thanks!Ken.

They call it a "plate joiner".Go tohttp://manuals.ryobitools.com/system/files/5567/original/jm80_239_eng.pdf?2011

If you are still interested, write back, but in general you will find a wealth of information online if you search "jointer tune-up" Fine woodworking has had several excellent articles over the years detailing the steps required to adjust the gibs or parallelogram table ways to compensate for this type of sag.
It is time-consuming but worth the effort if you wish to joint straight edges. Maybe check your local library for back issues on microfiche or some such. Sometimes you can get a bit of the sag out by merely cranking on the tightening knob a bit, but that works better on a machine with dovetailed ways and gibs.

It might seem obvious, and no doubt you've long since resolved this question, but was it possibly a breaker that threw due to an amperage overload on the circuit the jointer was plugged into?
The online manual (available here) takes pains to make sure the receptacle the jointer's plugged into is well grounded and any extension cords are of sufficient guage.
Assuming all that's in order, I guess you could bypass the switch to check to see if it is in fact at fault. Replacement parts are available from the same link above.

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I've had good luck finding them at this website, though you'll have to check both the rockwell and delta pages. Look for publication reprints, and when you get to the manufacturer's page, click on the Pub. type heading to sort the column into jointers, table saws, etc. You may be able to find something of comparable age that will have descriptions to help you, as many models had relatively slight variations from one another. I'm not sure what vintage that is, but there are general line catalogs and instruction manuals listed in the Delta pages that go back many years. Some of them will have basic jointer instructions that may directly pertain to your model. Also check that model number carefully. I've not seen letters in their model numbers before. Usually it is two, followed by three digits. Compare this link for an indication of what you could be missing.

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I'm not at the shop to look at mine, but they're all pretty much the same. It definitely hooks through the hole in the guard itself, and also in my case (a powermatic) to short length of grip chain. It seems to me there's a better way to hook the spring on, so that it rides a little above the surface of the jointer when in play, and doesn't score a path across the bed as the guard moves back and forth. But with a little trial and error you have no doubt already long since figured this out.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
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You can download the online manual from this link. You may also wish to do a google search on "jointer tune up" and you're sure to turn up some helpful articles, some of which will directly apply to your machine. There are a lot of delta jointers out there.
Just make sure you carefully tighten the lock bolts/nuts across the blade in a non-linear order, to spread the load across the cutterhead evenly, and change only one blade at a time, rather than removing all three and then inserting three sharp knives. In this way, you maintain proper tension across the cutterhead at all times.
If you used a magna set and didn't score a line on the fence to locate the magnaset at the peak position of the knives' arc around the cutterhead, then you may wish to do this first with a fine point marker. That way you'll ensure that the magnaset is in the same position when you adjust each knife as it was for the others. I sometimes use a 12" straightedge laying on edge along the outfeed table to double check the height of the knives, as the magnaset alone seems to have a bit of play in it and I can feel the roll of the knife edge against the underside of my rule to indicate the perfect height, too much or not enough and make corresponding adjustments. But I do use the magnaset to hold everything in place while I tighten the screws down.

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You can get manuals for many porter cable tools by going to this link and using the model number to search parts. There is frequently an option to download a pdf instruction manual below the exploded parts diagram(s)

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Yes, you can download it here.

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YOu have the infeed table set far too low, and/or your knives are not set even with the height of the outfeed table. You should very rarely need to take a pass of more than 1/16 th of an inch on a jointer, unless the wood you're jointing is very rough cut or cupped/warped.
Please also see the answer given in this article for information about where to download a user's manual and find information on using and tuning up a jointer.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
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