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You might want to check that the sensors mounted on the side of your garage are lined up .... Also you can check the garage opener itself, there is a screw usually in the back with a +/- .. by turning this screw you adjust where the garage door stops if it is set too far on the + side it might be opening because of this

If you are trying to simply let one pop-up window through, hold the <ctrl> key down when you click the link which would normally bring up the pop-up window. Otherwise, you can normally disable it by going to your browser "Tools"-->"Internet Optoins"-->"Privacy" and disabling it there. Of course, it depends on what browser you use (this is for IE7), and if you have other pop-up blockers installed.

You advertise free help; you offer PAID help and then you want me to tell you how I fixed it? I don't think so.

where do i check and add the 134 to my 2004 ford explorer

Hello, W/D here.

A very good question......A drill holds a bit and rotates it at a given speed. This speed can be variable, allowing the speed of the drill bit to be better matched to the material being drilled. The output from the drill motor goes directly to the chuck, and the power is directly applied to the drill bit. Some drills can generate a tremendous amount of direct torque, due to the nature of their gearing. Most of the better drills have planetary gears in them.
A driver rotates like a drill, but is designed to apply torque to a driving bit, and cause a fastener to be placed by the driver. The main difference between a drill and a driver is that a driver has an adjustable clutch, allowing the amount of torque being applied to a fitting to be preset. A good example of this would be for driving wood screws. You would dial in the torque setting that you want the driver to quit driving the screw. You don't want to drive the screw to China, you want to drive it flush. A maximum torque setting "locks" the clutch, and the fitting will be driven as far as it can go (This is about as close to being called a drill as a driver will ever get). A clutch setting midway might be just right for driving the same fitting into oak, and a setting at less than that might be just right for pine. The torque clutch effectively sets a kick out torque for the driver. When the torque applied matches the torque set on the driver, the clutch "slips", and no further driving action can occur.
Most modern battery powered drills incorporate a torque clutch between the motor and the chuck so that the tool can be operated as a drill (with the torque setting at "max") or as a driver (with the torque setting at less than max) some electric tools are configured as both, but usually they are different. For the money, a good battery powered drill/driver with a clutch offers more versatility, in my opinion.
Best regards, --W/D--

I am amusing the jack is hydraulic have you tried turning the screw clock wise on the base of the jack sometimes located were the handle inserts?

you need to bleed the air from the cylinder. there should be an air bleed or else you bleed it at the relief needle. also, if it still leaks down after you bleeed out the air, the seat for the relief valve or the seals at the relief valve cartridge are worn

2 "u" cup seals need to be changed in the reserve tube

I am in the flooring industry and I have never heard of this type of tool. The installers do you a pull bar and can be purchased an any flooring supply store. It is a tapping style unit that you can tap with a mallet to pull in the board.

she seals need to be replaced it is bypassing the piston

NEED A DRIVER USB CAMERA M/N:P-216S-09

IM ASSUMING YOU HAVE A HAND HELD PUMP AND HE OPENED THE RELEASE VALVE. TRY FILLING THE CYLINDER COMPLETELY AND SEE IF IT WORKS. IF THAT DOESNT FIX IT TRY TAKING THE END OFF THE HOSE AND PUMPING THE AIR OUT, THEN REASSEMBLE.IT MAY HAVE AN AIR TRAP IN IT.

Hydraulic fluid straight from the drum, has a typical cleanliness level of ISO 4406 21/18. A 25 GPM pump operating continuously in hydraulic oil at this cleanliness level will circulate 3,500 pounds of dirt to the hydraulic system's components each year! To add hydraulic oil, and not the dirt, always filter new oil prior to use in a hydraulic system. This can be accomplished by pumping the oil into the hydraulic reservoir through the system's return filter. The easiest way to do this is to install a tee in the return line and attach a quick-connector to the branch of this tee. Attach the other half of the quick-connector to the discharge hose of a drum pump. When hydraulic oil needs to be added to the reservoir, the drum pump is coupled to the return line and the oil is pumped into the reservoir through the return filter. As well as filtering the oil, spills are avoided and the ingress of external contamination is prevented. The benefits of carrying out this simple modification are well worth the minor cost involved.