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Common Causes For Boiler Leaks


Having a leaking boiler is understandably an inconvenience none of us need or want. The cause of a leak is usually due to 2 factors - the age of the boiler or poor work by the engineer. However, these things happen and it's important to take the right steps to diagnosing the problem sooner rather than later. Prolonging the issue can ultimately lead to further damaging the internal components of your boiler, making for a more expensive repair.
Pressure Valve

A boilers pressure should be sat at one bar on the pressure gauge. If the pressure exceeds this amount, the pressure relief valve should leak water to prevent your boiler from bursting. If for some reason it don't, it's likely you will encounter problems with other components on your boiler.
Poor Fitting Installation
Common with newly installed boilers, it's an easy mistake for engineers to make to not seal pipework correctly which ultimately causes the fittings to leak water.
Boiler Pump
When you incur a leak with your boiler pump, you have two options to resolve the issue. Replace the pump entirely or, reseal the pump. However, depending on how much an engineer charges to replace the seal, it may or may not be worth replacing the pump with a brand new one.
Expansion Vessel
Most plumbing systems will need an expansion vessel as they will need to contain the water as it expands when it heats up. However, in time the pressure will takes it's toll on the vessel and it's been known to split the vessel, leak from the hose and/or leak from the fitting where the braided hose joins onto the tank. If you encounter all three problems it is best to replace the expansion vessel and the braided hose. Furthermore, if you have a leak on the fitting then it may just be a case of a poor fitting by the previous engineer. Therefore, it wouldn't hurt to get an engineer to PTFE the joint and adequately tighten it back together correctly to ensure the system stays leak free.
Corrosion
Pipe corrosion is a common problem that can be cheap or some-what costly to fix in some circumstances. A cheap fix would include corrosion on a part that is small and easy to access and replace. An expensive situation would incur a wide-spread corrosion in multiple areas which would likely result in replacing your boiler.

on Mar 07, 2019 | Heating & Cooling


You need to know why it's there. I'm guessing one put it there because of a reason, (no common outside, only one good wire, no 24 to power a board, SOMETHING). What and exactly where is it hooked up?

Fedders Heating... | 52 views | 0 helpful votes


http://www.fixya.com/support/t16038566-heater_fan_electric_fireplace_not

SOLVED: We have an electric fireplace - the blower fan is - Fixya


www.fixya.com/support/t8228181-electric_fireplace

1 answer
Feb 10, 2011 - Don't despair, it's very common with electric fireplace/heaters. ... If that didn't solve your problem, either the fan motor is bad or the switch to turn ...Missing: Alcove ‎Auburn

Heating &... | 76 views | 1 helpful votes


Hate to say it but you need a service tech. Oil furnaces are very fickle things especially if it has not been serviced yearly. It could be no oil or if tanks above ground the oil could be jelling in the lines especially if there exposed outside. Could be clogged oil filter in filter housing or on pump or nozzle. Could be bad cad cell dirty heat exchange. Could have a cracked heat exchanger. Its gonna take a tech with the proper tools to figure it out.

Montgomery Ward... | 187 views | 0 helpful votes


Chances are it's a bad daamper. You can bypass any tstat by wiring red green and yellow together. Bypass the tstat, if still blinking you'll know it's the damper. You can then swap that damper to another zone and be sure the new zone then starts flashing.

Honeywell... | 86 views | 0 helpful votes


Do you mean the alert flag (a triangle with an exclamation inside it) or a different symbol? The Alert flag will appear with another message on the screen. If it is time to replace the battery, you'll also see "BATT" to the left of the flag and a low battery icon somewhere along the top of the LCD screen. If the thermostat is set to alert you to change the HVAC system filter regularly, you'll see "REPL" to the left of the alert flag.

This is from the T4 Pro thermostat manual on pages 6 and 7. See https://forwardthinking.honeywellhome.com/assets/tseries/resources/install/T4%20Pro%20User%20Guide%20-%2033-00188EFS.pdf . The T6 Pro uses the same alert behavior.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Honeywell... | 785 views | 0 helpful votes


GOOGLE IT AS WE WOULD HAVE TO MAKE AND ERROR CODES SEE WHAT IT TELLS YOU . HAVE A GOOD DAY NOW YA HEAR

Fujitsu Heating... | 59 views | 0 helpful votes


A safety is holding out the main gas valve from opening when call for heat ,check all safety switches to make sure they are closed

Dayton Heating &... | 36 views | 0 helpful votes


Whole house air conditioners these days typically don't use fuses. They use circuit breakers which are in the main electrical panel.

Heating &... | 35 views | 0 helpful votes


american standard error of 156... on a car? If PO0156, thats an ODB2 sensor... possibly the second O2 sensor on your emission system. You can reset the code and see if within 100 miles it lights back up... Likely it will. You may have a burned out catalytic converter... or a bad O2 sensor... or a blown head gasket, or many other things. If that is the ONLY code I would go forward with the O2 sensor. Look it up on ebay, year, make and model of car. Typically if one o2 goes, the other will follow. It is symptomatic of the cat going out though. How many miles on the car? More than 150,000? Likely its the catalytic converter. They are a consumable in your car. It will affect your mileage significantly while the code is on, and typically if it is the o2 sensor itself that has gone bad ( between 30 and 100$ per) and the cat is ok, if you don't fix the o2 sensor, the cat will burn up (cost between 200 and 700, and a bunch to swap out) Get it checked out, you're looking at more bucks the longer you wait

American... | 49 views | 0 helpful votes


Are you saying there are 2 w2 terminals on the defrost board?....w2 in and w2 out??...that would be unusual,, what brand, how old?.....typically the defost board has a w terminal that the white tstat wire connects to...that white wire usually connects to the same terminal in the air handler as the white wire from the tstat so that either will bring on the aux heat..

Heating &... | 33 views | 1 helpful votes


The controller is most likely bad. Once the thermo coupling is released it should continue the flow of propane to the heater grid.
Look on Ebay for a replacement thermo coupling. It shouldn't be expensive. Good luck...

Heating &... | 236 views | 0 helpful votes


ASK Google AND MENTION THE MAKE OF IT ALSO

Heating &... | 37 views | 0 helpful votes

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