Was it very iced up? That can cause bad temperature registration. Also turning it off for an extended period resets the electronics. Monitor it for a week, then order the beef.
The best thing to do is to Google
make model spare parts,
or
make model parts schematics.
If it was a fuse, it would blow and not run again. They do have a device called a 'clixon' that senses overheating. It could also be a faulty Run Capacitor. There is a relay for the compressor according to this.
https://www.google.com/search?q=imperial+heavy+duty+commercial+freezer+cuts+out
..
Please keep in mind here that this freezer is 35 years old and it will eventually reach a point where it will be easier to replace it.
All freezers and fridges click, rattle and buzz as they cycle through there job. You only really need to worry if the noise is louder, random or is constantly happening. Some older freezers have a 'Boost' switch where you can turn up the freeze rate if you have recently put a large amount of food into the freezer. Don't use this all of the time as it is expensive to use and can wear out the freezer parts faster. Try flipping this switch and leaving it for 5 minutes to see if the noise changes.
Has the freezer been moved recently? Sometimes if a fridge or freezer isn't level it will make extra noises.
Is the freezer still as cold as it normally is? The noise could be the evaporator fan starting to fail. Get a qualified technician look at it as he will be able to listen to it and give you better advice.
I have the same problem. Could be 2 things. 1) The top lid may not be all the way down sealing. I had to out some weights on top to make it seal better.
2) The lid seal could be cracked, partial missing or just not sealing. Good luck trying to find a new seal. I'm still looking.
Great question but I cannot answer it. GE makes several models of chest freezers and they are not all wired the same. My eyesight is not to good and I cannot see your freezer so I cannot answer your question. You might try our friend google and look for the make and model of your freezer with the prefix schematic.
It is supposed to do that, and the thermostat is there for that very purpose. The compressor starts up and when it reaches its set temperature, it turns off. If you aren't opening the freezer very often, it may only start up 3 or 4 times a day to maintain the set temperature. Also chest freezers are very efficient because cold air is heavy, so the chest fills with frigid air and stays there.
Your description makes me think the compressor motor has shorted turns causing it to overheat and trip the thermal link.
Time for a new compressor or a replacement freezer may be less expensive.
Most parts are obsolete, and the timer is expensive!
https://www.repairclinic.com/ProductDetail/96494?page=3Timer-Def
Part Number:WP3-81329
In Stock, 1 availableNote: (Series: B2)
$82.10
Add to Cart
16
Defrost Heater
Part Number:W11175809
In Stock
Note: (Series: B2) The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over.
$71.30
Hello Michael - Sounds like the temperature control was
accidently turned OFF. When this occurs the temperature control turns off the
compressor, but does not disconnect the power to the light bulb or other
electronics. Let's try activating the freezer by pressing the UP arrow until
display shows "4" or desired setting. Allow 24 hours for temperature to
stabilize. For future reference you can lock the control to keep from accidently
changing the temperature setting. I ask that you please follow up with a
comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting
is needed or if the unit's status has changed successfully. Thank you.
CE probably means a Communication Error between the high and low voltage boards of the freezer. First check if your freezer uses a 9V backup battery and replace that with a new one. Next check the wiring for corrosion or damage. Check where the wires connect to the boards and inside the door. (Note: the high voltage board controls the compressor.) You may want to check that the freezer is holding the correct temperature with a refrigerator/freezer thermometer.
Please add a comment with the model number of the freezer (including the three digit prefix) if you'd like me to check for a parts diagram and parts list.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.Evaporator coilsPoor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR:If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810. The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. 1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge. On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge. If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it. To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it. You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment. Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtukhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L80Fk5had4 defrost timer REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"
