I don't know but as the connection is a low voltage type the orifice won't be very big and other Schwinn models seem to connect under the display console near the battery compartment.
If you shop around there are plenty of styles of handlebar. Might be worth you trying a bar from a dirt bike or some sort of cruiser bike. Another option could be to tilt your existing bars back a small amount and add a fork stem riser. Sometimes simply raising the handlebar height on the fork top can help.
With square-taper cranks, the bottom bracket spindle length required is determined by the particular brand/model of crankset.
You can find the specifications online if you do a search using the brand/model of crankset. You will need a crank puller and bottom bracket tools to change it out. The main crankarm bolts should be tight, around 30 ft-lbs of torque.
Look for the serial number on the lower head tube (right above the wheel on the front of the bike) for Schwinns produced between 1970 and 1979. Those produced after these dates will usually have a serial number stamped on the bottom bracket shell (the rear axle hanger holding the wheel in place).
https://goneoutdoors.com/identify-schwinn-bicycle-6115826.html
I had a look at the Mongoose website.
They have manual for download.
https://int.mongoose.com/pages/product-manuals
Enter the model of your bike, or look for a picture of it.
Follow the instructions....
REgards
Geoff
Mongoose full-suspension mountain bikes, like the Ledge 3.1, have a little bit of height adjustment for the handle bars. See the manual at https://www.mongoose.com/pages/product-manuals . The current link to the appropriate manual is https://p.widencdn.net/brqquy/OMMGFS-1_Mongoose_FullSuspension_OM . Start at page 18 (20 of the manual in the browser) and determine the type of stem on your version of the bike. The quill stem version has minimum insertion marks that must be below the top of the headset and not visible. For the threadless stem version of the mountain bike, you adjust where the handlebars clamp onto the steerer tube. However, this is very imited since there should be only 1/8" to 3/16" gap between the top of the handlebar stem and the steerer (stem) tube. The is where the top cap and bolt to replaced on the handlebar stem and thread into the steerer tube.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
Sounds seized. Common with alloy seatposts and steel frames or vice-versa. Try some penetrating lubricant. If that doesn't work, heat seat tube portion of frame with heat gun which should help expand allowing seatpost to be removed. Good luck.
Here is the link for front derail...https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-XT-FD-M786-Down-Swing-Derailleur/dp/B007HDMY2U/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=shimano+xt+front+derailleur&qid=1591136571&sr=8-1
