Rock & Ice Climbing - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

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The Main controllers always seem to be the problem on these quads. If you have a voltmeter you must check the batteries for a complete charge. You should read 24volt or around 24.60 vdc. If you have a full charge usaully 12-16 hrs by the charger supplied with the quad. Than check the output to the motor by disconnecting the motor wire and put your leads in the sockets and verify if you are getting voltage to the motor. Make sure you re-connected the battery before testing the controller output. You should see a varying voltage from 0-24 vdc when the throttle is turned. If you do not see anything at the motor lead and your batteries show charge. the controller is faulty or you have a bad connection. Un-plug and plug and connectors.

You need to either go to a bike shop or hardware store and buy the allen key.

Or take into a bike shop and they will remove for you.

In order for you to install the 98 flatline you need an adapter, if you don't have the adapter I would try to bring it back to the store so they can install it for you.

You could try to by a tube of "Gasket Maker" gel and use that on the orings? Or even just replace the orings. could be worn.

Probaly the first battery had a leak and the contacts are corroded, try to clean the contacts with a contacts spray.

I had this same problem. I had a very hard time to start this quad untill i was told to make sure the fuel filter is half full with gas. Which it wasnt getting gas through the filter. So i went down to our local dealer and purchased another filter. The new filter was getting gas this time but the quad still did not start. So i was told to take the throttle cable off the engine and pur gas right in the hole, but the cable back on, Put the choke on full make sure the gas valve is turned on and fire it up. it started right away. But i had to repeat this a few times. But works now

Ed

May I suggest that you check the alignment of the scope mounts.There is a tool available for this and costs about $10. from Brownells ,or your local gun shop can do it for a few bucks labor.
Sometimes the mounts place stress on the scope so that it is 'not' completely level and bends the scope body.
The other thing you must do to properly sight in a scope it to fire a shot and 'always; tap the scope body with a mallet or something wooden before firing again.
This 'tap' will allow the springs inside of the scope to react with the adjustment.
You should know within four shots if the suggestions are helping..No requirement to fire 20 shells.
The other thing may be that the scope itself may be faulty..Assuming you bought it from a recognized hawk dealer..take it back for a warranty replacement
Please try this and post back the results

this is caused by a sticky float in the carburetor, remove the bowl and clean all parts inside the carb with carb cleaner and make sure that float needle moves and seals properly. this should fix your fuel problem.

c...

All the connections from the controller only go into the specfic molex plus they came from. They also have the same colored wires as there associated plugs.

Well this post was done a long time ago, seems like you have a bad battery. you should see 24vdc. The batteries are in parallel so it adds up to 24 volts.If one of them is dead it would only show 12vdc.

There is no throttle adjustment on this type of speed control. It is soilid state and if you try to pull the spedd controller apart it will break it. The cooling fins are interated into the controller and glued internally.

Time to change the battery.

Well, covering the holes shouldn't cause the paintballs to burst like that. I'd make sure there isn't some aberration in the barrel but that may be hard to tell. Clean it thoroughly and hold it up to a light and see if you can see anything in the reflections inside. You can try to get someone to hone the barrel just a bit to see if that helps get rid of any small aberration(s).

You can try another brand of paint. The one you're using may be a bit brittle, or just around a while and brittle.

Also, check your chrono speed. Make sure it's not cranked up so high it's busting the balls.

You might try another barrel, but would be nice to see if you can fix this one eh. I'd try some other paint first after cleaning the barrel thoroughly.

Good luck!

Play hard, play safe, play with honor!

8^)

Open the bolt and carefully put in your ammo one on top the other. They should "click in" and hold in the magazine. Be sure to put each shell in as far back toward the bolt as possible to ensure good feeding. If you have a magazine release door on the bottom of your rifle, be sure it is properly closed and locked. Good luck with your Ruger rifle.

Remove the magazine tube and make sure the gun is empty. Open the bolt,take the safety off and squeese the trigger. Continue to hold the trigger back and gently pull the bolt back out of the breech. I beleive that is all there is to it. Good luck with your Marlin.

The old 37 has a screw about half way up the forend. Remove the screw and gently and carefully remove the forend by pulling the top down.Lay a towel or something similar down under the forend to catch any loose parts such as the forend shoe and the forend shoe retainer. Pay close attention as to how they fit together so as to make it easier to put your shotgun back together.
To remove the barrel, hold the barrel with one hand and push the barrel release on top the receiver with the other hand. This should let the barrel fall forward, allowing you to lift the rear of the barrel off of its hinge.
Good luck with your old classic shotgun and take good care of her.

Go to GunParts.com">www.e-GunParts.com the Numrich Gun Parts Corp. They should have a very good detailed schamatic on the post 64 model 70 Winchester bolt action rifle.
Hope this helps. Good luck.

Hi
are you still after instructions on this

tony

Hi, check this out for your answer - www.climbfind.com/Climbing-Grade-Comparison-Chart-Converter

Regards, Dave